Purple splotches

<p>I tried developing for the first time using Kodak TMax. I have whole pictures lost to purple splotches. Is this a failure to put film on reel properly or flaw in my washing the film?</p>

<p>Purple splotches, most likely caused by the film layers sticking together during processing. Usually caused by improper loading of the reel. Not much you can do about it now. :( Maybe try practicing loading the reel with that film now.</p>

<p>Sometimes words fail to express what has happened so I will guess - the problem is likely improper loading of the film on the reel . The reel design allows the film to be coiled so that it occupies a small space. If the film is improperly loaded the film will buckle and touch. Film touching film is a no-no as incomplete processing results. You need to practice in the light, loading several test rolls. Practice makes perfect.</p>

<p>There is a possibility that the loading went OK but the film was not fixed properly. I suggest that you hand dip spoiled film in a fixer solution. Place some fixer in a bowl and swish the film in fixer. You can perform this re-fix in room light. If the problem was improper fixing, you will see a huge improvement.</p>

<p>Do these splotches look milky? If so, try re fixing. Tmax is known for needing extra fixing than most other films.</p>

<p>most likely film was touching on the reel. (If they look like patches of undeveloped film or under developed film.)</p>

<p>If film was touching - there isn't a fix. If it was underfixed you can do the re-fix and it may clear up.</p>

 

<p>Fortunately, this was a roll that I shot for more or less experimental purposes. Since the purple frames were somewhat milky in appearance I did try another round of fixer. I saw improvement but also I can see that there are clear places within the center. I think I must have failed to wrap the film tightly enough in the beginning. I will work on my technique.<br>

Since the fixer I am using has the reputation aforementioned, would it help to add additional fixer to my solution beyond the ratio specified or should I just fix for a longer period? Can you "overfix"?<br>

BTW, the shots that did work out seem to be crisper than what I have been getting with the 400CN (when I get the focus right). I am going to try to attach a few to this post. It could be my imagination, or it could be the 100ISO, or perhaps a difference in the developer versus the C41 process. Any thoughts here would be appreciated as I am considering foregoing the convenience of using a local photo lab if I can get better pictures by developing my own (assuming I will improve in reel handling :). </p><div></div>

<p>You can easily test the fixer solution. In ordinary room light, cut off a piece of practice film or snip off a sliver from the tongue of a yet to be exposed roll. In other words procure some film. Dip the sliver into the fix and swish it about. You will see the film change from opaque to clear. Time this action. The proper fix time is twice the time it took to clear. Perform this test and fix for the 2x time, this will keep you out of trouble with the fix. When the time to clear is taxing, replace or add some fresh solution. Don't worry about over fixing. In time the fix will begin to reduce the density of the iamge - it takes lots of time to do this.</p>

<p>If this is a stainless steel reel, you must have jumped the groove at one point. Stainless steel reels are easily damaged by dropping, they must be completely square and concentric. (The current manufacture Chinese stainless steel reels are just as likely to come pre-bent from the factory.)<br>

You don't want to wrap the film tightly. You want it to be evenly in the slots in the reel, with space between the layers.</p>

<p>It is a stainless steel reel but I have never dropped it. This was the first time I tried it. On a "how to" website I saw that a slight twisting motion assists in getting the film on the reel. I just sort of wrapped it around it. I am pretty sure I am just making novice errors. It is hard to check for evenness in the dark!</p>

<p>The 400cn film is a chromogenic film, meaning it needs color chemistry to process. The C-41 process, for all practical purposes, needs to be processed at a specific time and temperature, so the contrast characteristics (or the characteristic curve) are built into the emulsion. B&W film, as opposed to chromogenic film, increases in contrast as you continue to develop beyond the manufacturers recommendation. Chromogenic film also increases the contrast with over development, but the colors get whacky. Your B&W images might look crisper because you may have overdeveloped them, increasing the contrast as the film sat in the developer longer than necessary (the basis for the Zone System).</p>

<p>Peter</p>

 

<p>A simple way to check for buckles in film on a stainless steel reel is to run the back edge of your finger nail along one edge of the film around the full circumference of the reel. Buckles are caused by the film not being square to the reel at the start. Feel a buckle? unroll and try again.</p>

<p>I do like the increased contrast, Peter. This is quite a bit of fun. I am grateful to photo.net for the great support to subscribers by seasoned photographers!</p>

It happens to everyone at some point. Hewes SS reels are fantastic. Once I discovered the difference I pitched my non

hewes reels into the trash. Best of luck. I'm currently learning to print. Lots to learn and enjoy. - Sean

<p>Agree with Sean. Hewes reels are fantastic. I use to swear by plastic until I picked up my Hewes.</p>

<p>Been there, done that...after 40 years, still do it once in a while...it's film touching film..loading can be tricky...I prefer stainless steel tanks, others prefer plastic..practice until you get good at one or the other, then stick with that one...</p>