Israel

<p>Later this week I'm going to Tel Aviv for four days of business. I'm getting there a day early to get over the jet lag. I and 2 colleagues will be taking an organized tour of Jerusalem. </p>

<p>So, naturally, I'm bringing my camera. And I've got 3 sets of questions:</p>

<ol>

<li>what lenses to bring</li>

<li>what to see</li>

<li>any cultural issues I should know about</li>

</ol>

<p>Nominally, I expect to bring a D3 + 16-35/4 + 50/1.4 + 70-200/2.8. When I travel, I find the ultrawide to be very useful. That means in the midrange I have to switch lenses. I could bring a 24-70/f2.8, but don't want to carry 3 big zooms. On the other hand, the people may be really interesting, in which case, I might be kicking myself for not having it. So maybe I bring the 16-35 and 24-70 and ditch the 70-200? Any suggestions on what I should to bring?</p>

<p>Colleagues who have been to Israel say it is one of the most incredible places in the world and they rattle off a list of places that they loved. I'll go buy a guide book at the bookstore this weekend. Any suggestions on which places are the best? And which ones work best for a few photos? Are these famous sites always crowded? Should I worry about security of my camera in any of these places? pickpockets?</p>

<p>Lastly, I want to make sure I honor local customs, especially given that I may not be familiar with religious customs. Any rules I need to abide by when seeing temples or mosques? Any worries about people not wanting to be photographed? I'm guessing Hassidic Jews love cameras as they own Adorama where I have purchased a lot of my gear. :-) Or does that just show my own lack of knowledge about their customs?</p>

<p>Any tips or observations to help me see, photograph, and enjoy this beautiful place would be greatly welcomed.</p>

<p>Thanks so much!</p>

 

<p>I go to Israel to visit family, so I may not be able to help much with photography, but I'll try since you haven't gotten replies far.<br /><br />What to see: everything you can in Jerusalem. Holocaust Museum is very haunting, truly to be experienced. I don't remember the rules on photography, but there are fascinating photographic challenges if you're allowed to attempt them. The Wailing Wall and nearby Omar Mosque will give you an idea of how close the monuments important to different cultures are. The Mount of Olives also has historical and religious importance and may give you a good view of the city. (That's when a 70-200mm may be handy, even with a 1.4x TC, depending on how clear the air is.) If you have time while you are in Tel Aviv, go out to the Museum of the Jewish People (Diaspora Museum) part of the University in nearby Ramat Aviv. This is only a very partial list. If you had time to drive around the country, Masada is another haunting place, the story there a challenge to represent visually. If you went you could also take a bit more time to visit the Dead Sea.<br /><br />Lenses: In Israel, because on restrictions on where you can go, there are some sights you may only be able to photograph from a distance, there are also very narrow streets, particularly in old Jerusalem (which hopefully you will be able to see.) Consequently,the wide range you first wrote seems good.<br /><br />In terms of cultural issues, treat people with respect as you would anywhere else, don't sit next to Hasidim or veiled Muslims of the opposite sex, don't leave luggage unattended in any public place anywhere in the country, and if you are told by authorities to leave your luggage and walk away quickly, just do it. They will tell you when to return. Arrive at the airport with as much time as is indicated--when I've gone, everyone got interviewed. That can take a long time. <br /><br /></p>

<p><em>"everyone got interviewed" </em>- nicely put. Expect to get more like interrogated there, so it is understandable why "<em>That can take a long time</em>".</p>

<p>While being interrogated, you could receive questions like that: "<em>What is the meaning of your last name - what does it mean?"</em> - make sure you have a satisfying answer.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Let me give you the good news first:</p>

<p>1. No matter what lenses you take with you, you'll be fine. I was there for five days a couple of years ago and I found I could shoot pretty much everything I needed (see below for more details on this), so even if you go ultra wide (I did have my 14-24 with me but, admittedly, I used it only sparringly - but that should not matter, all lenses are usable. Definitely take your 70-200 though for those portraits amidst the crowds in order to separate people from their surroundings.</p>

<p>2. You could easily spend a whole week in the Old City within Jerusalem and never run out of photographic interests - the place is trully amazing. So, if I were you, I'd count on an entire day there (and then head over to the Mount of Olives for the sunset!)</p>

<p>3. I would skip the museums (if you only have one day) - they are a valuable and interesting source of information and history, but with so much to see and do in the streets of Jerusalem, they should be relegated to another visit.</p>

<p>4. Make sure you go into the Ultra Orthodox area (Mea Shearim) - just to see the way people live, to have a chance to experience this is unique.</p>

<p>Now for the bad news:</p>

<p>1. Jews, especially the ultra-orthodox ones (and more over within Mea Shearim) arre loath to be photographed, sometimes to the point of being outright hostile. So, be careful. Be polite, considerate and always, when someone indicates displeasure, thank them and move away, do not try to sneak a shot, you may get into trouble. I was there on assignment and people knew I was working and that made them a bit more accepting, but still, shooting inside the Mea Shearim was at times dicey.</p>

<p>2. Getting into and out of Israel is a MASSIVE PAIN IN THE... well, you know where! They are rude, obnoxious, treat people like garbage, often to the point of being outright insulting and they believe they have the right to order you around just because you're in their country (unless, that is, you have either an israeli or a US passport! If that is the case, you're treated like royalty!) Seriously, it was, by far, the most annoying experience in my life, to the point I am making a point of never going back there again! Don't fall for it! Be polite, but be absolutely firm. They will ask you to completely empty your camera case on the conveyor belt (as if the cloth or plastic bag would stop the X-ray machine!) and lay out your precious equiment on the rough plastic - say no and demand a basket with bubble wrap or something else for protection. They will argue, they will huff and puff, but if you insist, they'll comply and you'll have your gear protected. Also, when going to check in (both coming in and going out), count on at least three hours! They will ask you empty your luggage, inspect your toiletries - the works! Again, UNLESS you have a US passport, in whcih case you are simply waived through, even if you're carrying a minigun with you! I'm telling you, I loved the country, loved the food, the history - everything! - but the way the airport people treated me made me a vehement enemy for life! They should show more respect to someone visiting their country - period!</p>

<p>3. During the Sabbath (check out exactly when it starts and ends) you;ll be hard pressed to find anything jewish open, so outside the Old City you'll pretty much starve to death. Inside, with the Muslim and Armenian quarters, you'll be fine!</p>

<p>Overall, enjoy! You'll get amazing images. If you want to see some, check out: http://www.mariosforsos.com/Middle-East/Jerusalem/10873536_iDGEv#!i=758833342&k=m7Fhv. For the related blog entries: http://www.mariosforsos.com/Travel-Blogs/Jerusalem-Blog/10907878_DcyFC</p>

<p>Hope this helps...;-)</p>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=5860108">@Allan Armstrong</a></p>

<p>With regard to Adorama and our love of cameras, you may be interested in how it all began: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hKxGbNXt_Is</p>

<p>Helen Oster<br>

Adorama Camera Customer Service Ambassador</p>

<p>Allan, </p>

<p>First of all, safe travels, and enjoy the country! It's truly an awesome place to be. I was there for a year (2010-2011), and couldn't get enough. I'm guessing you're already in Israel, but I'll just post anyway, since someone else might need the answers later.</p>

<p>Personally, I would have taken only the 24-70mm. Carrying a lot of stuff - including the 70-200mm is a pain, especially when you're in a dry and hot desert area like Israel. The wide angles would come in handy in areas like the Old City, and the 50-70mm (standard-tele) range would be good for portraits. Sure, there are times when the 70-200, or even the 16-35 would come in handy, but in my experience, I have not needed anything wider than a 24. Of course, this is all based on personal preferences. </p>

<p>During my stay in Israel I only had a 24mm, 50mm, and 80-200mm (on a full frame - 35mm). I was perfectly happy, except when I would have liked to have a 35mm. I probably used the 80-200mm only 5% of the time - but then again, I'm not really into telephotos. That being said, having a 70-200mm on the Mount of Olives or Masada could come in very handy, and those 5% could pay off. It's up to you if you want to lug around all that glass in the desert heat. Oh, and yes, water is expensive, especially in the touristy areas. </p>

<p>As for places to see, I believe you've already heard and read about all the amazing places Israel has to offer. I personally loved walking around in the Old City, and Ben Yehuda. Also, check out the shouk/food market 5min from Ben Yehuda. <br>

For an Israeli Starbucks "equivalent" (i.e. coffee shop chain) try Aroma Coffee (black, red, and white colors). Can't say their coffee is good, but their salads and sandwiches are great. I loved the Jerusalem-style salad, and the Salmon sandwich - but again, personal preference :). If you're in Ben Yehuda, go to Pinati - they have one of the best hummus' in the city. It's a little shop opposite a bus stop on King George Street. You can eat there, or take food out - including just the hummus. It's fresh, so keep it refrigerated, and don't plan on storing it for long periods of time. Also, Moshiko on Ben Yehuda has one of the best felafel's in Jerusalem. </p>

<p>Do visit Masada. It has great views, and a remarkable history. If you're gonna take all those lenses, take the cable car, btw :D. <br>

Don't forget the mandatory dip in the Dead Sea, of course, and bring a bottle of water for emergency eye-rinsing - almost always needed. <br>

The Yad Vashem Holocast Memorial is truly worth a visit, as is the Israel Museum - or at least their model of the 2nd Temple Period Jerusalem. <br>

If you only have 1-3 days in Jerusalem, visit the Wailing Wall and the Dome of the Rock. Visiting early in the morning - around 7-8am is a good idea; you will see less tourists, and more devout Jews praying at the Wall - so rather than seeing the Wailing Wall as a tourist attraction, you'll get a better sense of its importance to the Jewish people. Also the Temple Mount is nice and quiet in the mornings, with less tourists. <br>

After that, walking around in the Old City is also nice. Many shops might still be closed or just opening at 8-9am, but it's quieter, with less traffic - read: more photo opportunities. Breakfast in the Old City at the time is also quite refreshing :).<br>

As someone mentioned earlier, go to the Temple Mount at sunset. Beautiful views and photographic opportunities await. After that, go to Ben Yehuda - lots of bars, and a great young crowd. <br>

Save the afternoons for day trips to Masada, the Dead Sea, Ein Gedi, the Yad Vashem, and the Israel Museum. </p>

<p>Oh, and about the security interrogations at the airports. While I was there (living for a year), I flew in and out of the country several times. Almost every time, maybe like 3/5 I was stopped for interrogation. I don't have a US or Israeli passport, so no "magic" treatment - although based on what I've seen and heard from fellow travelers, there really isn't much "magic" to having an American passport at an Israeli airport. <br>

Just smile, give short and precise answers. The more you talk, the more they'll have to latch on to. Most of the security workers are college students - working and studying. They're just doing their job, so they have to be strict and sometimes even a bit menacing - it's part of their job description :). Don't take it personally. <br>

If you go in there, expecting an interrogation, and have a jolly attitude about it, you'll be fine. I'm sure I could have made some nice acquaintances with the college girls working there if their job hadn't prevented it - all that to say: they're just doing their job. Smile, be polite, and don't take it personally. They do have serious security threats, so security for Israelis is a top issue. <br>

Also, I wouldn't recommend going to the airport too early. The last time I went 4 hours early, and was held up the entire time - now that was quite annoying, but at the time security was ramped up due to some political stuff going on. Nevertheless, I was the first to arrive at the airport, and the last on the plane. Just get there as you would to any other US airport for an international flight. They won't make you miss your flight. </p>

<p>All in all, enjoy Israel! It's a diverse, amazing country. As they say: Go to Haifa for work, Tel Aviv for entertainment, and Jerusalem to pray :). </p>

<p>Be sure to share some of the pictures from your trip :).</p>

<p>I'm a local and - while I take most of my images overseas - there may be a few that you may find interesting.<br>

As I'm pointing you to panoramio, they're all geottagged:<br>

http://www.panoramio.com/user/4237494/tags/Israel</p>

<p>As far as the customs "cavity search", it very much depends on your looks, nationality and specific alerts. Mostly it goes smoothly, but one co-worker - a US citizen - got the worst possible treatment, most probably because he was born in Egypt. Bottom line - just as you wouldn' joke about carrying a bomb at a US airport, don't do it in Israel either.</p>

<p>FWIW,<br>

Jean</p>

<div></div>

<p>First off, my thanks to everyone who responded for all the helpful info and advice. Secondly, my apologies for the delay in responding and sending out this thank you.</p>

<p>Seeing the beautiful work of Marios Forsos and Jean Spector, I am humbled. By comparison, my photos are snapshots. That said, I have some excuses. :-) and I hope to do better in the future. Having seen photos from Marios and Jean, I'm not sure I want to show any of mine.</p>

<p>I had only one day to be a photographer. The business took the rest. On the photo day, I joined two colleagues for a guided tour of Jerusalem and Bethlehem. It was just too fast to get anything other than snaps. It was an incredible experience but a whirlwind.</p>

<p>Honestly, Israel was one of the most beautiful and more interesting places I have ever seen. Jerusalem is the cradle of western civilization and the root of most world religions. It has historical and cultural interest like no other place I can think of. I will probably get to go back again and I will photograph it well next time.</p>

<p>That said, I do want to mention my experience with customs. On the way in, it was easy. They just asked me a few questions (how long are you staying? where are you going?) just like everybody in the line. It was no different than traveling to europe. A friend of mine who has an arabic name, is a devout muslim, and was born in Afghanistan went to Israel a year ago. He was questioned for an hour in a private room, but reports that security was professional and courteous and that visiting Israel was one of the best trips of his lifetime.</p>

<p>On the way out, they did pull me aside for special screening on my checked bag. It contained lenses, a flash, lots of cables and wires, various other electronics, and a spare battery for my camera. It took a little while and they were courteous and respectful.</p>

<p>I have the utmost respect for Israeli security.</p>

<p>Back to photography -- Israel is a great opportunity for people photography. The western wall is a stunning place to visit, but I visited on a Sabbath when cameras are forbidden. We went through Jerusalem, but a group tour is a bad call. The pace is too fast to take anything other than snaps. I wasn't able to see the Al Aqsa Mosque. Currently, only Muslims are allowed entry to the area, which is too bad because it is stunningly beautiful. I'm not Muslim, so I could not see it. The Holy Sepulchre (Christian church) was fascinating, but sooo crowded.</p>

<p>We also saw Bethlehem, but it is in the West Bank, behind a 30-foot concrete wall and through a checkpoint. I'd recommend spending time in Jerusalem instead. Getting in and out was a bit stressful.</p>

<p>Back to Jerusalem, the souq and all the alleyways are really interesting. I'd recommend having a lens with VR. Light is low. I had a 24-70 f2.8. An f4 lens with VR would be easier to work with. Even having a camera with good low ISO performance (D3), it was a challenge.</p>

<p>I will be back and I will get some good photos. Having had a quick tour, I have had the required orientation. Next time, I will know what to do.</p>

<p>So, now that I have dissed my own photos and set expectations, I'll share a few.</p>

<p>Here is one of some friendly Israeli soldiers at the Dung Gate.</p><div></div>

<p>the gate to see the Dome of the Rock/El Aqsa Mosque... this is as much as I saw.</p><div></div>

<p>the souq... check out the guy carrying all the bread... interestingly, bagels in Jerusalem are not round... they are elongated like a race track</p><div></div>

<p>all of the streets are covered, buried alleyways surrounded by centuries of building... eventually, we stepped into the sun and got a glimpse of onf of the Christian churches</p><div></div>

<p>light coming from above in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre... people waited in line for 5 hours to see the tomb of Jesus Christ</p><div></div>

<p>worshippers lighting candles at the tomb of Jesus Christ</p><div></div>

<p>for this photo, I'm glad that photo.net only allows thumbnails... it is blurry... I was in too much of a rush. Otherwise, it would have been a good photo. It is a woman praying at the final resting place of Jesus Christ in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.</p><div></div>

<p>lastly... there was a remote part of the Western wall, not connected to the subterranean synagoge, where cameras were allowed. There was one young Hasidim praying, but our guide advised us it would not be respectful to photograph him. Turning the other way, was a good view of the wall and the paper notes tucked between the rocks.</p><div></div>

<p>You could take a 35mm only, have a really light kit and come back with a bunch of amazing photos and no back ache.</p>

<p>yeah, that backpack was a bear on a hot and humid day. I don't mind carrying the weight, but the sweat on my back was tough. And it is tough to change lense in those crowds. A shoulder bag with less stuff in it would have been a better choice.</p>