francesco_palombi Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 <p>Hi,</p><p>I'm reading a lot on the web about contact printing, but I couldn't find a valid answer. <br>I would like to contact print 5x7 negatives on 11x14 sheets leaving the white around the photograph. </p><p>What is really the best technique ever to do that?<br>Do I have to build a frame?<br>Thanks,</p><p>Francesco</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franklin_polk Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 <p>If you want a <strong>white</strong> border, you will have to make something to block out the light. The cheapest way would probably to be to cut a piece of mat board with a frame the size of the negative. Even a custom cut mat (which you will have to do, as the size of the negative is ever so slightly smaller than 5x7) from a framing store should be maybe $25. If a black border is acceptable, then all you need is a piece of glass to hold the negative flat.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kent Shafer Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 If you want to allow for flexible cropping, you might try one of the four- blade enlarging easels (such as Saunders). Or of course you can always just trim the print and dry mount it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_5888660 Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 <p>You do not have to build a frame, but they do make life easier. </p> <p>To do what you describe, buy ruby lith or a masking sheets (sold at art supply shops) in 11x14. Cut a window in the lith or sheet the size of your negative and place the negative in the sheet. If the window is slightly smaller than the negative, you can tape the negative in place on the boarder area of the negative and the tape will not show up in the print. Place the negative and sheet in contact with the paper and cover with a sheet of glass. You can use cheap window glass. The glass will provide enough pressure to keep the negative pressed against the paper. If you use a large piece of glass, you can always put small weights in the corners to provide more pressure if needed. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feodordefemina Posted February 20, 2012 Share Posted February 20, 2012 <p>A black border around the picture and a white mat are perfect together.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sergio_ortega7 Posted February 21, 2012 Share Posted February 21, 2012 <p>Rubylith masking film, with a heavy sheet of glass on top, is really the most effective way to achieve your desired result. Rubylith is a very thin material, so the glass on top of the negative will still be able to maintain sufficient contact pressure between the negative and the printing paper underneath to achieve excellent print sharpness. It will also yield very clean, sharp edges around your image area. While pretty and nostalgic, traditional wooden hinged contact printing frames were designed for the periodic inspection of images as they slowly formed on printout-type papers, to maintain proper registration whenever one inspected the image; they're not necessary for contact printing using projection speed papers. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francesco_palombi Posted February 21, 2012 Author Share Posted February 21, 2012 <p>I was thinking about an idea..<br> what if I create a mat board with a 5x7 cut (just slighty larger for the black border and than I can make me create a 5x7 glass that I put just on the the negative.</p> <p>Do you think it can work?<br> thanks </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_5888660 Posted February 22, 2012 Share Posted February 22, 2012 <p>If you use a 5x7 piece of glass, the edges of the glass will show in the final print. The edges of the glass will scatter the light, creating uneven density. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francesco_palombi Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 <p>mm ok.</p> <p>I'll try just masking with the rubylith.<br> Thanks, </p> <p>Francesco</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian berry Posted March 9, 2012 Share Posted March 9, 2012 <p>Spray paint an 11x14 sheet of glass black. Drop a card on the glass before you spray, in exactly the right position to make a clear window to print through. A tape hinge on the top edge (glass hinged to a backing board of cardboard) will let you position the glass consistently on the paper. A cardboard template will let you position the negative easily and quickly. Remove the template, of course, before you expose. You want that negative equally sharp edge to edge in the final print. -- not so easy to do with blades, etc.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francesco_palombi Posted March 9, 2012 Author Share Posted March 9, 2012 <p>good idea.</p> <p>What about putting rubylith on the glass and not under?<br> The same concept of the spray but with rubylith. Could it work?</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sergio_ortega7 Posted March 10, 2012 Share Posted March 10, 2012 <p>Placing any type of masking material or light-blocking device (such as black paint) on top of the glass, instead of in direct contact with the printing paper and negative below the glass, will create a very soft and uneven edge along the borders of the final print. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francesco_palombi Posted March 12, 2012 Author Share Posted March 12, 2012 <p>ah ok..<br> thanks!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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