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Questions about D800.


rodeo_joe1

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<p>Hi everyone. I wonder if someone could answer a few questions about the D800, especially Shun?<br>

1. I've read that it has a "quiet" mode. How much quieter than normal is this? And how is it acheived?<br>

2. Does the battery door still have those crappy plastic hinges like the D700? Should I order half a dozen battery door spares along with the camera?<br>

3. What battery does it take? And what's the battery capacity like in use?<br>

4. What, if any, D700 accessories can be used with the D800? - i.e. remotes, etc.<br>

5. Have Nikon decoupled Mirror-Up from Liveview on the D800?<br>

6. Any difference in screwdriver-coupled AF speed from the D700?<br>

7. Is the number of non-CPU lens memories still limited to 6?<br>

8. Do you still get some flash bleed into the image when the built-in flash is set to "--"?<br>

9. Have Compact Fluorescent lamps been added to the White Balance option list?</p>

<p>Yeah, OK. I should have paid more attention while I had my hands on one at a trade show, but there was an angry queue forming behind me anxious to have a play themselves. Apologies if some of these questions have already been answered elsewhere.</p>

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<p>Just because this one is easy:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Do you still get some flash bleed into the image when the built-in flash is set to "--"?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>There has to be. The pop-up, when used as a commander (even set to "--") <em>has</em> to emit at least some light during the exposure because that's how the CLS system works. It communicates to the slaves using a pulse of light. The best way to mitigate that (barring the use of an SU-800 or radio triggers) is the $13 SG-3IR, which in practical terms blocks the visible emission from the pop-up, and just lets the IR out to talk to the slaves.<br /><br />So, that's not a D800 vs. D700 issue, that's just a using-a-pop-up-as-a-CLS-commander issue, and is what it is. But it's very trivial to address.</p>

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<ol>

<li>Similar to other Nikon DSLRs with the quiet mode, e.g. D3S, D300S, D7000, the control is from the top left dial that controls S, CL, CH, etc. It is really quiet on my D7000; on the D800 not so much. But you have to listen to that yourself to form your own opinion.</li>

<li>The battery door is similar to the one on the D700. I bought my D700 (September 2008) two months after its introduction (July 2008). So far I have had no problems with that door so that I don't see any need for me to order additional doors. Whether you do or not depends on how rough you use your cameras.</li>

<li>The D800 uses the EN-EL15, same battery as the D7000 and V1. Last month, I went to a tennis tournament and on purpose didn't change batteries in two days. After capturing 1500 images with a lot of chimping in two days, I had about 20% left on that one EN-EL15. However, the D800 seems to consume more battery power than the D7000.</li>

<li>The D800 has the usual 10-pin remote terminal on the higher-end Nikon SLRs since the F5.</li>

<li>Yes, like the D7000, in the live view mode, when you take a picture, the mirror no longer needs to come down and then go up again. Nikon's live view design was poor before the D7000.</li>

<li>I don't have enough experience with AF-D lenses on the D800 to comment.</li>

<li>You can enter data for 9 non-CPU lenses, same as the D300, D700 and D7000. I just checked each one of those. Not sure where you got 6 from.</li>

<li>Not tested yet, but I am sure it does as Matt points out.</li>

<li>There is the usual fluorescent option for WB. What is "compact fluorescent"? There is no separation option for that.</li>

</ol><div>00aDto-455177584.jpg.93cd41f8b052529aff48f02ef4bb66bf.jpg</div>

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<p>I suspect with "compact fluorescent" he refers to the current replacement for tungsten bulbs (cold lights with threaded -E27 type alike- connection).<br /> If so, think that colour temperature varies; there are many choices (like on fluorescent ones; warm, daylight, etc., etc.). The best solution is to custom set your most used one.<br>

Tungsten bulbs are dissapearing for massive use, at least in europe (don`t know in the US). I believe remaining stocks are still allowed to be sold, but there will be no supply anymore.<br>

<br /> Point #5 has been fixed. We will have to wait another update to fix the #8... 8P</p>

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<p>Re. Point No. 5) Can the mirror be locked up in the same way as an 'old' film SLR to prevent mirror slap etc <em>without</em> requiring a new first shutter press per frame ie I don't want the mirror back down until <strong><em>I</em></strong> want it down! A sequence of bracketed frames is a noise-fest!</p>
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<p>Mike, as you know, DSLRs no longer have true mirror lock up as film SLRs. You can lock up the mirror on the D800 and then when you press on the shutter release button again, it will capture an image but the mirror will immediately come back down. Thus you can avoid the mirror slap on its way up. By the time it comes down, the image has already been captured so that presumably you no longer care about the vibration. The noise is a separate issue.</p>

<p>Old film SLRs had to have true mirror lock up due to some old wide-angle and fisheye lenses that were not retrofocus and they would protrude into the mirror box, thus damaging the mirror.</p>

<p>This thread has more discussion about the D800's new features: <a href="00aCMS">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00aCMS</a></p>

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<p>About this question:<br>

6. Any difference in screwdriver-coupled AF speed from the D700?<br>

I can venture an educated guess that, considering that Nikon hasn't really changed the screw-drive motor since the D200, the camera is the same size overall as previous offerings, occupies the same market position as the D700, Nikon is moving more lenses every day to SWM-drive, and that the D800 shares the same AF engine as the D700, that autofocus with screwdrive lenses is overall no different. On the bright side, there is probably an AF-S option for any lens that you're worried about, or it may be worth it for you to step up to a D3s. Either way, you'd have to spend money for focus speed increases, so I'd recommend grabbing a lens.</p>

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<p>I have quite a few D lens and they do focus faster on my D800, that on my D3.<br>

How much faster I have no idea how to measure how ever I can tell that they just snap into focus faster.<br>

I know this wasn’t asked but I thought I would mention it. I was very surprised that my 30 year old 28mm f3.5 AIS stopped down to f5.6 is razor sharp corner to corner even at 100%<br>

I think it is going to take a lot of testing to determine which of the older lens are capable of handling the 36 megapixel.<br>

ps I feel lucky as I have had my D800 for a week and a half.<br>

The administrator has my permission to remove this post if it is inappropriate.</p>

 

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<p>No worries, Dennis.</p>

<p>I tried three mid-range zooms on the D800:</p>

<ul>

<li>My older 28-70mm/f2.8 AF-S</li>

<li>The current 24-70mm/f2.8 G AF-S</li>

<li>The new 24-120mm/f4 G AF-S VR</li>

</ul>

<p>I am delighted that the 28-70 is still very good, on the D800. The 24-70 is of course excellent. The 24-120 is a bit weaker into the corners on its wide end.</p>

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<p>Regarding point 2) I have often complained about the memory card door opening on the D700 and D7000 when I pull the camera from my camera bag. Because of slight changes in the angle and construction of the door on the D800, this hasn't happened. </p>
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<p>Wow! Thanks for all the responses so quickly.</p>

<p>@Dennis. Any and all information gratefully accepted Dennis. Nice to know at least one of Nikon's 28mm MF lenses can cut the mustard with the D800. I doubt that my Ai-S 28mm f/2 will get such high praise, but I have hopes for the 50mm f/1.4 and 105mm f/1.8 - both Ai-S. I've already written off the 35mm f/2 and 24mm f/2.8 as no-hopers. Maybe the 20mm f/3.5 will surprise me.</p>

<p>@Shun. 6 non-cpu lens memories - don't know what I was thinking? Sure enough it's 9, but it's still not enough! Also sounds as if the battery capacity is slightly better than the Enel3e - great! Disappointed about the battery door though. I'm a careful user, but a slight accidental knock while the door is open is all it takes to shatter those dreadful little plastic pins that are all that hold it in place.</p>

<p>WRT the compact fluorescents. Yes, I was referring to the energy saving "bulbs" that are being foisted onto us in Europe. While they do vary slightly in colour, there's something else about them that completely foxes AWB, with shots coming out incredibly yellow to orange. Although a custom WB fixes this almost completely, many people are going to find this a real chore to set every time they encounter these CFLs. And this is going to happen more and more frequently in Europe. Something that Nikon would do well to address in any future firmware upgrade.</p>

<p>@Matt. I always thought that CLS did its thing entirely with pre-flash communication between master and slave, and that once the shutter went off all communication ceased. It would be nice to have some definite information from Nikon whether this is the case or not. A CLS master continuing to chat to its slaves during the exposure would certainly explain some of the flakiness I've encountered with CLS consistency and reliability. Notably when the master is set to a high minus compensation and TTL exposure.</p>

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<p>Regarding the "compact fluorescents" When I bought the last bulbs I was choosing them according to the different specs (warm, daylight, etc.) and I noticed that at least (if not all of them, but I can't recall it) had the color temperature printed on the package, in kelvin degrees or a relatively narrow interval, therefore you can set this for WB and if you find it as necessary you can bracket to ensure a better result.</p>
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<p><em> A CLS master continuing to chat to its slaves during the exposure would certainly explain some of the flakiness I've encountered with CLS consistency and reliability.</em></p>

<p>It doesn't "chat" with the slaves during the exposure, it just sends the one flash pulse that will tell the other flashes to go off. This happens during the actual exposure and can contaminate the picture.</p>

<p>IMO Nikon <em></em>really needs to follow Canon's lead here and integrate radio control into their flash units. </p>

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<blockquote>

<p>"....it just sends the one flash pulse that will tell the other flashes to go off."</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Are you sure this is what happens (or is supposed to happen) Ilkka? The residual flash seen is very weak. I wouldn't have thought it was a strong enough signal to fire its slaves reliably. My understanding was that the slave flash was timed to fire at a fixed delay after the <em>end</em> of the master setup command and "Fire" signals. But maybe I'm crediting Nikon's designers with too much common sense here.</p>

<p>Anyone know if or where a reliable specification for the CLS command sequence can be found? Any patent application search turned up anything?</p>

<p>Antonio: The point about the CFLs is that for some reason they fool Auto White Balance. Personally I don't have any problem setting a custom balance (not sure that a simple Kelvin setting would work though). However, Nikon haven't made it particularly quick or easy to set a Custom Balance, and a preset balance for this increasingly common type of lighting would be a welcome addition.</p>

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<p>Rodeo, think that like fluorescent lamps, "energy saver" bulbs also flicker. They both have similar limitations.<br /> I agree that it could be a good idea to made specific changes for this issue. In a very few years, tungsten bulbs will be non-existant.</p>
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<p><em>I wouldn't have thought it was a strong enough signal to fire its slaves reliably.</em></p>

<p>Ah, but would you characterize the functioning of CLS as <em>reliable</em>?</p>

<p><em>My understanding was that the slave flash was timed to fire at a fixed delay after the end of the master setup command and "Fire" signals</em></p>

<p>If there is a delay, it could perhaps be the tail of the sync flash that we see in our exposures. Whatever it is, it is there and sometimes strong enough to be registered in the image.</p>

<p><em>I understand that on a D90, a pop-up flash could be "useful" but on a D800/D800E, I`d expect another kind of... "feature".</em></p>

<p>It comes with the territory when the camera is priced at this level - some users expect it.</p>

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<p>Regarding lenses: my 28 mm f/2.8 AIS (the CRC-version with a 0.2 m min. distance) is absolutely perfect on the D800. The 24-120 mm f/4 is very good, I use it when tripod is no option and I need to zoom, and for these purposes it's perfect, as well as for a small travel pack (body, 1 lens, flash).</p>

 

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<p>I don't think it is possible to white balance your garden variety CFLs. They just aren't Kelvin. They have a spikey color spectrum. The high CRI (Color Rendering Index 93 or better) CFLs are better, but they aren't used in everyday applications. These are the ugliest lighting instruments ever invented, and they killed photography.</p>

<p>And then there are those awful sodium lamps that now light every city in the world. It used to be possible to do nighttime photography. No longer.</p>

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