Question about loading film onto reel

<p>I'm completely new to film developing -- I haven't even purchased my first development tank. My question is in regards to the process of removing the film leader and loading the film onto the reel.<br>

If I have to cut the leader off in complete darkness, I can guarantee you that I'm going to cut unevenly and probably through a sprocket 9 times out of 10. <br>

Why do I have to remove the leader in complete darkness if the leader and (probably) the first couple of frames have already been exposed to light when I initially loaded the film into my camera?<br>

Also, can't I load the film directly from the cartridge onto the reel (in complete darkness, of course), without removing the film from the cartridge beforehand? I understand that the last frame will be attached to some column within the cartridge, but can't that just be snipped off when the time comes? <br>

Thanks</p>

<p>If you rewind your film so that the leader is still sticking out of the cartridge, yes you can cut it off nice and square in the light. No reason that has to be done in the dark. But either way you do it, it only needs to be reasonable, not perfect. If it's cut at a slight angle, that's fine, and cutting through a sprocket hole doesn't matter at all. You could, in the dark, load straight from the cartridge to the reel. But the addtional pass of the film through the felt lips of the cartridge increases the chances of scratching the film. Other issue is that you need a certain amount of play in the film as you get it onto the reel, so it might be easier to load with the film already out of the cartridge. If you load from the cartridge, be sure that your camera leaves a blank frame or two after the last shot, so that you're only cutting off tail leader, not cutting through your last shot. What you definitely want to do is sacrifice a roll or two and practice loading in the light so you know exactly what you're doing. Then try it with your eyes closed, then try it in the dark, all before you do it for real. Good luck.</p>

<p>Thanks Craig, that definitely puts my mind at ease. Along with a Paterson development tank, I also purchased a film leader "retriever" to pull the leader out for this exact reason. But if perfection isn't required here, then i'll probably just do it all in the dark. Excellent point regarding the scratching as well.<br>

I've purchased 5 rolls of expired film off of ebay to practice with. <br>

Thanks</p>

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<p>But the addtional pass of the film through the felt lips of the cartridge increases the chances of scratching the film.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Only if you have managed to get something abrasive in there. It has already passed through the slot twice in the camera and possibly another time in the factory so another pass will do no harm.</p>

<p>I always trim the leader and start it into the reel in the light then finish off loading the reel in a changing bag. When I get to the end I just tear off the film along the exit slot - no scissors required.</p>

<p>I have never scratched a film with this method.</p>

<p>Steve is correct -- scratching is only an issue if something gets into the felt. If you're going to go this route, be sure the roll of film goes back into its plastic can after shooting so dust, bits of sand, etc., don't get into the felt.</p>

<p>thanks guys.</p>

Not all cameras completely rewind the film into the cartridge. Some leave the leader protruding from the cartridge. And if you listen you may hear the end of the film coming out of the take up spool and stop rewinding at that point. And on many of the older cameras you can watch the take up knob unwinding backwards and the point at which that stops is a clue as to when the leader has disengaged.

<p>Hi Jason,</p>

<p>Yes, if you leave the leader protruding after you rewind the film,<br>

you can cut the leader off while the bulk of the film remains in the cartridge,<br>

then load the film onto the developing reel (in total darkness) and snip off the tail.</p>

<p>The trick is leaving the leader out of the cartridge on rewind.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

 

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<p>The trick is leaving the leader out of the cartridge on rewind.</p>

</blockquote>

<p><br />Fairly easy with practice... and for those times you don't get it right there is the leader retrieving tool.</p>

<p>handling the film and not kinking it (whcih caused moon shaped marks)<br>

can be a problem gently is the way to go.<br>

I used to use the old FR tank with a hook at the core.<br>

it was very popular with folks taking photo courses.<br>

ask around some older person may have one.<br>

reason: they were the least expensive.<br>

sometimes it helps to snip off the corners of the leading edge of the film.<br>

some manage to shove the film thru the grooves, even a 36 exp roll.<br>

I was never able to do that. I cupped the film slightly and fitted in the inner grooves and then gently guided the film on the reel by turning the reel,<br>

some use the ratchet style reel with one side wobbily.<br>

sometimes that works, I was not happy with it.<br>

the stainless steel reels and taks are good, but harder to load<br>

until you get a feel for it.<br>

don't be upset., it is like learning to tie your shoes.<br>

you develop ( no pun) a manual skill after a few tries.</p>

<p>120 and especially the discontinued 127 being so thin were hard to load.</p>

<p>even if you only have short lengths of processed film.<br>

practice it will help you when you GO DARK.</p>

<p>Hi Jason. When I cut I put the last bit of film in between my pointing and middle finger with the reel on the other side of my fingers trying to get it as straight as possible and then cut along my fingers, obviously as carefully as possible. Loading film is all about practise. Once you have done it a few times, it will be like riding a bike. Hopefully I have made some sense. Kind regards Cherene</p>

<p>"...I can guarantee you that I'm going to cut unevenly..."<br>

But probably more evenly than the leader is to begin with. It is normally is trimmed to load into the camera with a sort of tongue on one side. </p>

<p>If you have lots of trouble reeling the film try Hewes brand 35mm reels. They have flanges that fit in the sprocket holes. I always found them super easy to load. They almost load themselves.</p>

<p>Jason,<br>

YES, you are correct. That is exacly what I do with 35mm film. Simply get the leader out in full daylight, snip it square, and load the first inch or so pnto the reel, again in the light where you can see. The, in the darkroom, load the rest, and snip the film at the end of the roll, as close to thye canister as you can feel with your hands. Works like a charm! </p>

<p>I have not loaded film onto a reel since college. I still shoot film exclusively but take it to a lab. I would use a changing bag with the tanks/reel already inside. We would use a bottle openener to open the roll of film. Then , with a pair of scissors, cut the leader so it is even and then fit it on to the reel and then wind the reel until the film was on there and then put it in the tank. Scissors, bottle opener, tanks, reels were all inside the changing bag.</p>

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