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On location lighting options


kevin_mahoney1

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<p>Kevin: What will you be shooting? Table top products in controlled indoor settings? Full-length outdoor fashion work, with the strobe needing to fill shadows in bright sunlight? Wedding receptions? Sports? Environmental portraits? <br /><br />How portable does this need to be? Are you planning on carrying stands/booms, softboxes, sandbags ... or, are we talking about something that has to go in your shoulder bag or pack?<br /><br />This could go a lot of different ways, but there's no point running down all of them without just a little more input from you about your shooting style, expected circumstances, budget, and a sense of what equipment you're already using (for example, are you using a Nikon camera that already has CLS command abilities, and you expect your light to be a meter or two away ... or are you shooting large format film on architectural interiors, and you'll need to scale up to lighting large interior spaces, all with completely manual metering ... you get the idea).</p>
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<p>Shooting what? </p>

<p>I suppose things to consider overall: define "portable". Battery powered or really long extension cord? How much power do you need? Some battery packs clip an a belt. Others you haul with a cart! Are you trying to modify the light? If so, you will need the modifiers <em>you</em> want for whatever lights you decide on. As an example, Paul Buff lights are decent lights but don't have all the light modifiers that say Elinchrom would. </p>

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<p>I`m looking at weddings and portraiture. Looking to knock out the sun, and make my subjects pop. Currently I am looking at a quantum system (I love it`s portatbility as far as having a bettery pack on my waist and holding the modifier on the flash with a monopod), but open to all suggestions</p>
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<p>Ok Matt, let me be more specific. I would like to shoot full length wedding receptions (as well as location shots) and portraiture, using the strobe to fill, as well as overpowering sunlight. Portability? Able to carry a battery pack on my waist. Sandbags is a viable option, though the light can be held comfortably via monopod.<br>

Looking to spend around $1000.00-$1500.00 max</p>

 

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<p>Ok Matt, let me be more specific. I would like to shoot full length wedding receptions (as well as location shots) and portraiture, using the strobe to fill, as well as overpowering sunlight. Portability? Able to carry a battery pack on my waist. Sandbags is a viable option, though the light can be held comfortably via monopod.<br>

Looking to spend around $1000.00-$1500.00 max</p>

 

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<blockquote>

<p>Looking to knock out the sun</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Well, that's a problem. Quantum only has one flash that will come close: the X5DR for $807 (B&H) and then the battery needed is another $700. Any other Quantum flash will be 150w/s or less. Useful for fill, but certainly not for overpowering.</p>

<p>You have the Elinchrom Quadra, but a single head and battery are $1480. Nice set. Whole range of modifiers to go with it (more money). Still only 400w/s, which is OK unless you want to start using brollies or softboxes outside in the sun. Battery a little larger.</p>

<p>And then there is the Paul Buff lights. Probably the least expensive options and the most power. Battery somewhere between the Quadro and the Quantum Turbo. Drawback is that the flash is a somewhat larger monolight (comparatively speaking). Of course if you are slapping a 22" beauty dish on the head or other modifier on it, then that doesn't matter (Elinchrom reflectors are well made, but heavy pieces!).</p>

<p>Each system has their own way of triggering the flash. The Quantum will have a TTL module. The Elinchrom will use their own system, but you can at least still control the power of the flash from the camera position. And the Buff lights have either their own system, the Cyber Commander (near useless in bright light) or you could go with a somewhat pricey Pocket Wizard system.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>Looking to knock out the sun</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I agree with the previous post, if you want to overpower the sun AND carry a battery pack on your waist/belt then its going to be pretty tough. Normally I would just say use speedlights and be done. But you are trying to overpower the sun so I am not sure you can have both.</p>

<p>If you dont mind NOT having the battery pack on your waist/belt you have several choices for DC battery/generator pack and head systems above 1000 watts: Profoto, Speedotron, Hensel, Bowens, Elinchrome for portable DC powered lights. There is Lumedyne, Dyanlite and Norman as well but they offer much less wattage under 1000 watts.</p>

<p>I shoot with the Bowens Explorer 1500 strobe pack it has 1500 watts and you can add two additional monolights for 1500 watts for a total of 3000 watts... more than enough to overpower the sun. The Speedotron Digital Explorer 1500 is pretty much the same as the Bowens Explorer 1500 but without the the 2 X DC port connections for 2 extra monolights.</p>

<p>More info on some of the lights mentioned above 1000w/s and above .<br>

<a href="http://www.timothyarmes.com/blog/2009/05/choosing-a-battery-pack-flash-system/">http://www.timothyarmes.com/blog/2009/05/choosing-a-battery-pack-flash-system/</a></p>

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<blockquote>

<p>I shoot with the Bowens Explorer 1500 strobe pack it has 1500 watts and you can add two additional monolights for 1500 watts for a total of 3000 watts... more than enough to overpower the sun. The Speedotron Digital Explorer 1500 is pretty much the same as the Bowens Explorer 1500 but without the the 2 X DC port connections for 2 extra monolights.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>A 1500ws pack will only output 1500ws no matter how many heads it has fitted. Further than that it operates just a battery pack, and you will need the extra heads as well. Over the 1200ws/1600ws level you'd be better off with a generator and powerpacks realistically, or just multiple 1500ws packs.</p>

<p>The only one in the bunch which will offer any integration to your camera system are the Quantums. The rest can offer higher configured output, but not the versatility, so it boils down to how you intend using these most. 400ws with a standard reflector on a Quantum X5d-R @ 400ws is adequate to overpower the sun up to around 14 feet and it can be done with a softbox at about 4'.</p>

<p>Both the Lumedyne and Quantum systems will allow you to add boosters to their standard output specifications if thats required. The Lumedyne will go up to 2400ws with the correct configuration, but you do need quite a few (5) 400ws boosters for that sort of output which makes carrying it a bit of a problem. (It can be expanded to 3200ws if needed). The Quantum can be boosted to 800ws, but then would need to be split between two heads as single heads are only rated to 400ws.</p>

<p>For sticking on a pole and remote TTL/Manual/Group control, the higher powered Quantums would be better suited.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>It`s interesting the lighting that David Ziser obtains with his quantum setup. Bridal shots at the beach at dusk. Maybe the lowered ambient lighting helps make the bride pop more, even though he may be using 200w/s . There is much less sun to compete with, when the evening approaches. I too have seen Dave McNally do something similar with 2 SB-900`s. Again, this was pulled off near dusk.<br>

Thank you all once again for your responses. Seems like I may have to dig a little deeper in the pocketbook...lol.....:-(</p>

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<p>Ian yes that is what I said earlier, the Bowens Explorer 1500 generator pack can output 1500w/s and an additional 1500w/s with two Bowens 750w/s monolights, bascially 1500w/s from the generator with 1-2 Quad heads and 1500w/s from the battery pack via monolights all in the same unit. With 3-4 lights the total output is 3000w/s and this beats hauling a heavy, noisy gasoline generator anyday. Also we do not know if the OP may or may not want to use<em> softboxes or other light modifiers</em> so he may want to consider other options besides the Quantum if he is using softboxes.</p>
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<p>The Bowens Explorer 1500 has a guide number in meters @ 100 ISO @ 186 (558 gn/ft) with one pack head at full power. With 2 X 750w/s monolights connected to the Explorer the guide number each in feet @100 ISO is 350 gn. So adding all the 3 lights together 3000w/s @ full power @ 10ft: f56 + f35 +f35 = apx f74 or f64.5 on a meter! This rivals in power to Profoto's top of the line battery generator the Profoto Pro-B3 @ 222 g/n in meters. <em>More than enough to over power the sun with large softboxes even at double the distance.</em><br>

<em> </em><br>

Here is a great list of most all the major portable strobe battery monolight and pack head studio strobes:<br>

<a href="http://www.lightingrumours.com/portable-power-guide#BowensEx">http://www.lightingrumours.com/portable-power-guide#BowensEx</a></p>

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<p>For occasional use the Bowens Explorer @ 1500ws would be useful, but at $3000 for a one head kit, I think that even being optimistic that a second hand unit would be available at reduced cost and the liklihood of adding another two heads to the pack with the special connections along with carrying it all around at a wedding would be pretty much out of the question. Sticking all that on the end of a pole with a softbox would be pretty impossible too.</p>

<p>A single head QUADX 3000 will do all the above without resorting to multiple heads, and could even be run through a softbox on a pole, but even though I have three of these, I wouldn't be packing or running one of these at a wedding either.</p>

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<p>For occasional use the Bowens Explorer @ 1500ws would be useful, but at $3000 for a one head kit, I think that even being optimistic that a second hand unit would be available at reduced cost and the liklihood of adding another two heads to the pack with the special connections along with carrying it all around at a wedding would be pretty much out of the question. Sticking all that on the end of a pole with a softbox would be pretty impossible too.</p>

<p>A single head QUADX 3000 will do all the above without resorting to multiple heads, and could even be run through a softbox on a pole, but even though I have three of these, I wouldn't be packing or running one of these at a wedding either. They're not battery powered, but at that output, thats a sensible proposition.</p>

<p>The problem with any high powered battery device is the longevity of the battery due to the requirements of the packs. A 1500ws unit will only manage around 100 images on a battery before needing another, and the recycle times are a bit on the long side even at that. Doubling the output doubles the recycle time making the wait between pops extremely painful. Often, if you can manage to ship a pack to site then a generator isn't too much of an issue and you can run longer and faster as well.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p><strong>Photography IS lighting</strong> ... found light, or created light, or a combination of both. The more that you create it, the more control you have over it. This is important because the tool we use to capture light is flawed ... it cannot record all of the light in front of it at the same time in one exposure under all natural lighting circumstances. So, we help the poor little camera by evening out the differences between the brightest and darkest portions of a scene ... this is "light balance" to create a dynamic range that the camera can actually record. </p>

<p><em>I say all this because the most anemic aspect about off-camera lighting is usually the budget allocated to do this important job. I seriously doubt that there isn't a photographer on the planet that would not like a strobe powerful enough to over-power the sun on a bright clear day, with a battery you can clip on your belt, and a strobe head/modifier small enough to perch on a mono-pod held by the photographer while operating the camera ... that costs $1,500. or less new. So far it doesn't exist.</em></p>

<p><strong>People keep insisting that shoe-mount flashes can do the job outlined above </strong>... then offer proof by showing images shot a dusk or more normal dynamic range situations requiring much less additive light. Even if you put 4 speed-lights in a modifier, set to maximum manual output, you may only get to a maximum of 280 to 300w/s of output, less the subtractive effect of the modifier used. Good for some situations, but most certainly not all. ... not to mention that little speed-lights used at full output have a tendency to shut down when their thermostatic control decides to protect the light from a melt-down.</p>

<p><strong>Personally, I also do not get the obsession with TTL</strong> for off-camera lighting. In many situations you'll spend more time over-riding TTL then actually using it. IMO and direct experience, the better solution is a strobe system that offers a radio transmitter capable of plus-or-minus adjustments at the camera.</p>

<p><strong>The closest system to these specs is the Elinchrom Quadra.</strong> The battery is manageable, and can be stung over your shoulder, but can't be clipped to one's belt. The strobe heads are the smallest out there, smaller than a speed-light, which helps when out at the end of a light-pole, or up on a light stand or boom arm. EL modifiers are more expensive, but that is irrelevant, since virtually any modifier can be adapted to the ubiquitous EL mount. The radio system allows full control of the output at the camera.</p>

<p><strong>What's not to love?</strong> Well, the Quadra can only deliver 400w/s of light less the subtractive aspect of the modifier used. More useful, in more situations than a speed-light, but still not enough for all situations. Past 400w/s things get bigger and much more expensive. Most pros go against the sun armed with at least 1200w/s or more.</p>

<p><strong>Solution:</strong> step up to the right lighting gear, or avoid situations where you can't hope to win no matter how much you wish it.</p>

<p> </p>

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<blockquote>

<p><strong>Personally, I also do not get the obsession with TTL</strong> for off-camera lighting. In many situations you'll spend more time over-riding TTL then actually using it. IMO and direct experience, the better solution is a strobe system that offers a radio transmitter capable of plus-or-minus adjustments at the camera.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>TTL isn't always necessary and remote Manual adjustment might be all you need.. but theres one thing for sure, if your lighting doesn't have the capability of TTL - you won't ever be able to use it.</p>

<p>TTL can be a godsend when you need it, and working in any environment where consideration is needed towards your clients and little time is afforded to the needs of the photographer it can come into it's own. This happened to me on a recent corporate portrait assignment which turned into a boardroom meeting with the added requirement of shooting 3 Directors each in 3 different positons around the table and each being a different direction from the lights wherever they were placed.. and 4 minutes to shoot all three each with variety.. TTL sorted it out 100% even whilst switching position and subject and DOF.</p>

<p>Once upon a time cameras were entirely manual so you learned to cope using entirely manual operations of camera and lighting and over time this becomes intuitive. Nowadays, theres a generation of photographers who rely entirely on automation as they've never had to use Manual and often need to read the instruction book to find out what it is and how to use it. TTL to them is just intuitive.</p>

<p>Then theres sports events with people moving towards camera and needing lighting.. at night in black wetsuits as well as during the bright of day with backlighting.. TTL will cope far faster with that than Manual ever will.</p>

<p>400ws isn't the answer to every lighting scenario, but it's far better than an 80ws speedlight and much more versatile especially if you keep your shooting options open, in this day and age with the capabilities of modern cameras thats more important than ever before.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p><strong>Solution:</strong> step up to the right lighting gear, or avoid situations where you can't hope to win no matter how much you wish it.</p>

<p>Most pros go against the sun armed with at least 1200w/s or more.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Well said Marc, I agree with everything you said and there is really not much more to say on this thread!<br />The Elinchrom Quadra is the best choice for the OP in this case for ALL the reasons you mentioned. If you need to overpower the sun in broad daylight speedlights are <em>not </em>your answer.</p>

<p>I shoot with the Bowens Explorer 1500w/s which is extremely portable and sets up in minutes even with 2 extra monolights connected and can offer up to 3000watts, plenty for overpowering the sun. Gasoline generators are really a pain to haul around and they are noisy. There are other DC options at or above 1200w including Profoto and others generator/battery packs I mentioned earlier. And as long as you are not shooting overpowering the sun during the entire time of the shoot where full power is needed, its a powerful battery and you have hundreds of pops available for the photo shoot. But at least having 1200w/s portable/DC packs you have the option of easily overpowering the sun.</p>

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<p><strong>Sorry Ian</strong>, even with your explanation I still don't get the TTL obsession. I've yet to see TTL deal with severe backlighting without adjusting the compensation ... requiring some judgement as to how much adjustment ... which, using the same judgement, I can manually do equally fast with +/- controls at camera. IMO, where you set a light to handle moving around a corporate meeting room is more important than TTL ... that's no different from many situations where the subject or shooter isn't in a stationary position, and the light is stationary. </p>

<p><strong>I think the whole aspect of manual control of lighting has been made into a boogey-man</strong>, and perpetuates lack of understanding how lighting works by reliance on the equipment to do the thinking. If a photographer extracted themselves from their "nanny blanket" comfort zone and actually learned how to control it themselves, I think TTL would be of more use later since they'd know what to do when TTL doesn't work ... which is more frequent than proponents are willing to admit. Frankly, once you do learn how it works, the less likely you'd be interested in surrendering control back to the equipment.</p>

<p><strong>Manual control of strobes is now a no-brainer to learn</strong> because everyone has an LCD to see the effects immediately. It takes the mystery out of it and speeds the learning curve to almost nothing. It is a LOT simpler to master than most newbies probably suspect.</p>

<p><strong>BTW, to continue the discussion, higher output levels with good strobes has benefits beyond over-poweering the sun.</strong> When faced with mixed ambient indoors one can eliminate the effect with enough strobe light. Plus, while the current trend is to drag the shutter to open-up the background, that isn't always desirable if the background sucks ... which can be fixed by using a faster shutter speed and stopping down while using more strobe light.</p>

<p><strong>Here's an example</strong> ... I was moving around a wedding venue with the couple shooting in various locations ... I had an assistant with the Quadra head and 40" shoot through umbrella on a painter's pole ... the Bride flopped down on the couch, but the background had all kinds of hubbub going on including some distracting windows ... I just wanted a clean studio type shot, so I stopped the camera down, jacked the Quadra up to 320w/s<em> and used an on-camera TTL speed-light</em> for fill, effectively overpowering anything in the background. </p><div>00a11J-442453584.jpg.d443ddec27b235429568b584e112e2d3.jpg</div>

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<p>Do you guys know that the Quantum system can control remote lighting in 3 groups, in Manual, and Auto as well as integrate into the Canon eTTL and Nikon iTTL systems and be controlled using those proprietary Nikon and Canon IR signals as well as just the TTL control I mentioned?</p>

<p>Or you can even use Quantum's own radio communication to control remote speedlights/speedlites in conjunction with it's own 80, 160, 200 and 400ws configured units (or boosted to 800ws) and the output is not restricted to an asymmetric configuration?</p>

<p>As well as run those same outputs directly connected to the camera - whether thats Nikon, Canon, Hasselblad, Mamiya, Contax or Olympus (useful if you want to upgrade or change your camera system and retain all the benefits of keeping your integrated flash kit).. and that you can sync up to 1/8000s using only the Quantum radio system AS WELL as increase your lighting ratio of your flash at 1/8000s by +1 stop ?</p>

<p>Only, it seems to posses all the benefits you're talking about - plus more - which you seem to be overlooking.</p>

<p> </p>

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<blockquote>

<p><strong>Here's an example</strong> ... I was moving around a wedding venue with the couple shooting in various locations ... I had an assistant with the Quadra head and 40" shoot through umbrella on a painter's pole ... the Bride flopped down on the couch, but the background had all kinds of hubbub going on including some distracting windows ... <strong>I just wanted a clean studio type shot, so I stopped the camera down, jacked the Quadra up to 320w/s<em> and used an on-camera TTL speed-light</em> for fill, effectively overpowering anything in the background.</strong></p>

<img src="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00a/00a11J-442453584.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="515" hspace="5" vspace="10" /><br />Strobe Key & Speed-light Fill.</blockquote>

<p>Thats pretty standard, I've been doing that with speedlights on camera and remote Quantums, Sunpaks, Broncolor and Lumedynes in all sorts of situations.<br /> <br /> <br />Whats so different with that you show which a Quantum couldn't handle both in the hotshoe and on the pole - apart from nothing ? Not only is there no difference, Quantum could be your on camera TTL fill/controller AND separately your flash on a pole all in the same system?<br /> <br /><br /> I don't get your 'TTL obsession'. TTL is there purely as an additional tool to extend the capabilities of your lighting which can be used appropriately. Theres no imposed requirement to use it, but removing that option before meeting the requirement does seem to be rather restricting.</p>

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