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Scanning resolution


harmon

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<p>This may not be the right place for this question but - does anyone know the typical dpi for a drugstore scanning process from negatives? You know, like when they give you the CD with the negatives - <br>

I am looking at buying a scanner for both color they develop and B/W that I develop. I'd like to compare the dpi of consumer scanners versus the minilab.</p>

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<p>Why not just get a roll developed, ask for a disk, and find out? Or better yet give your local drugstore a call. If it's acceptable quality then go with it, if not then look for a scanner that will meet your needs. For the most part if I want to beat my local developers scans I'm going to need to buy a dedicated film scanner, not a flatbed scanner. The exception is Ektar 100, it looks horrible from the drugstore scans, no tweaking could save those scans.</p>
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<p>I pay for the CD each time I get the negatives. I just thought in the long run I would be better off scanning the negatives and saving the $ on the CD they burn for me. On the other hand, I do want to have at least as good a product as they provide on the CD. Hence, the question on comparable resolution available in the consumer scanners. I was hoping I could get similar or superior results with one of the Epson products.</p>
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<p>There is a LOT more to the quality of a scan than just the DPI. The minilab scans have some basic automated adjustments so they look as good as possible with no post processing. This eliminates some data and makes auto adjustments that are irreversible and you may not want. If you just want quick and dirty JPGs to use on-line, the minilab scan may do it. But if you want a file you can make a good print from, you have to scan yourself.</p>
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<p>Walgreens scans are typically<strong> crummy</strong>. It's not the scanner but a combination of company-determined presets that are too contrasty and way too saturated and over sharpened created on a mindless auto-mode scanner. They think that's what people want (Oh how sharp and colorful they are...pretty). B&W is the same minus the saturation problems. I still get the disk made, however, because you can use the images for editing purposes and, in Photoshop, you can often fix them to a reasonable degree for casual web posting but a really winning shot or one I am actually going to print, I'll scan myself on a Nikon CS 4000. If you know how to scan (a big IF), a modern Epson flatbed will do a much better job for web and small print work. I have made very good scans from my Epson V750 from 35mm. If you like shooting film, scanning skills are worth learning.</p>

<p>My local custom lab makes much better auto scans but they cost quite a bit more and they are located across town. Wallgreens is around the corner so I tend to use them a lot more. The C-41 processing itself is fine and inexpensive. Don't even think of getting prints made there.</p>

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<p>My Canon scanner does 2000 ppi, or 2000 x 3000 on a 35mm neg/slide, as it default, and has the option of 4000 ppi (4000x6000 on35mm) so a 1000x1500 is pretty useless and 600x800 is laughable -- that's the resolution of a circa 1990 VHS camcorder. Sending Tri-X/T-Max out isn't really practical today unless you're willing to put up with mediocre processing at cheap prices or willing to pay a lot for good processing. If you want to scan, you can get everything you need to develop your B&W negs yourself for $20 to $30 and be able to do it yourself for a dollar or two a roll after that. All you really need are a tank and reels, a thermometer, couple of storage bottles and a pack of developer and fixer. Use a changing bag to load the film if you don't have a room that can be made completely dark. Everything else is done with the lights on.</p>
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