Should I just get a new Pentax K1000? (Issues)

<p>I bought a Pentax K1000 off eBay in January of this year. It turned out that the lightmeter didn't actually work - I'm pretty sure its just old with age - so that's one thing that is wrong with it. It's still a little grungy and dirty. Today I went to take a photo and found the shutter button wouldn't depress. It seems to be jammed, and I can't move the lever very much at all. I took the lens off and the mirror is locked up. I think I've read that this is a pretty typical issue. I've been dealing with the shot lightmeter (I usually just meter with a digital point and shoot) but I can't even take pictures now.<br>

The estimate I got to repair the light meter was $75... I know I can get a body on eBay for $35 - I guess what I'm trying to decide is should I go ahead and get this one all nice and clean and like new for $75+ or should I take a risk on a body I get from eBay which might not work, might be just as grungy, might have a shot lightmeter, etc. The listing I originally bought this camera from SAID the lightmeter worked when in reality they had tested it wrong, so I'd really not like that to happen again.<br>

Thoughts?<br>

Also, I'm pretty partial to the all-manual K1000 (ie. it not needing batteries except for the lightmeter) but should I upgrade, since this one seems to be shot? I have three k-mount lenses, so I'd like to stay in that family. Thoughts?<br>

Thanks a bunch,<br>

Tara</p>

<p>Some people love the basic approach of a K1000, I personally don't (I used an MZ5-n for quite a while and would recommend this wholeheartedly). The fact is the K1000 is coming to an age where examples that have been heavily used are worn out or where, irrespective of age, electrical components are coming to the end of their lives. Given your two choices (fix or buy another), I would have the one you already own fixed, since in the end you will then be sure to have a camera that works properly, whereas as you say any other example you buy could be just as bad (even if the meter was working, there's no telling if it's accurate). Best idea, though - buy a newer Pentax.</p>

<p><strong>Tara</strong> Hi! if you look into the mirror chamber on to your left [on the wall of mirror chamber] there is a lever that operates the mirror. Some times that spring gets weak, or the joint gets a little dirt and holds the mirror up and locks the shutter. Wiggle that lever a little with a finger or a softer probe like one made of plastic or wood and not metal. There is a good chance that the mirror will drop down and things will be okay.<br>

The other possibility is that the the sponge on top that halts the mirror has become soft and gummy, is holding the mirror stuck. In that case try and pry it down with your finger, gently. I hope this works for you.<br>

You may try cleaning the camera joints and hinges with Ethyl. Methyl or Iso-propyl alcohol. You can also do so with petrol [gas] but only on the metal parts. If there are plastic parts be careful with gas, as many plastics get dissolved in petrol. Best, sp.</p>

 

<p>Tara- A typical dillema you have there with your old Pentax. All these old film cameras are getting to a point where a lot of us are at the "repair or replace" stage. If you decide to repair it, my advice would be to send it to <a href="http://www.garryscamera.com/">http://www.garryscamera.com/</a> . I havent used his service myself, but I plan to as soon as I stop buying new cameras and actually spend some money servicing the ones I now own. :) Many people have spoken very highly of his service and his prices are extemely competetive. His site lists the repair cost for your camera as $45 plus $8 for his return shipping cost. If you add another $10 or so to get it to him its still a little cheaper then what you mentioned in your post.</p>

<p>If you decide to get another one I would recommend moving up just a little to the Pentax KM. It has all the great features of the K1000 but adds a depth of field preview and a self timer. Same rugged construction and you will probably find one in better shape since they dont have the reputation of the K1000 as being "the ultimate student camera" so most likely haven't been put thru the ringer like so many of the K1000's have. Also, keep in mind that the production location and method changed on the K1000 over the years. There are basicly 3 different models. 1) The original made in Japan, 2) the parts made in Japan but assembled in Taiwan and 3) the all made in China version. The later China versions have many cost cutting features that replaced some of the original metal parts with plastic ones. Ick...</p>

<p>You could possibly even consider the KX is you want to add aperture priority and an aperture window in the viewfinder. One of the bonuses of the KX and KM is that they were all made in Japan with no cost cutting. The good thing is that no matter what you choose all of your options involve an old Pentax and its hard to go wrong. As a previous owner of 2 K1000's I know why you love that camera. Every time I pick up and hold an old Pentax I get a certain solid feeling that no other camera imparts, not even my beloved old Minolta's. There is just something about the old K line that just feels right. And the lenses available simply augment an already wonderful package.</p>

<p>Good luck with your repair/replacement. Hehe, or both. Why not repair your K1000 and pick up a KM? Then if one conks out you have a spare to use while the other is being repaired. See, Im a sick man....its always just one more camera. :)</p>

<p>I love basic and simple camera but not the K1000. When the K1000 was introduced it was a good idea because it was an SLR for the price of a P&S. You could buy on brand new with the 50mm f/2 lens for $129. But today I don't like it because last year a guy was selling a K1000 with the 50mm f/2 for $90 and he could not sell his excellent condition KX for the same price. He had offered for $50 because the buyer only wanted the lens. So I got the KX with the 50mm f/1.4 from him for $70. The KX is in excellent shape. Shutter is accurate and meter is accurate because the KX has the advanced Silicon photocell in the meter not the Cds cell like the K1000.<br>

What I am saying it, I think the K1000 was a nice camera when it was selling for less than half the price of the KX. But no way I would want a K1000 for more money than the KM or KX. It was manufactured with serious cost cutting in mind.</p>

<p>I don't think a repait wou ld be a smart move<br>

the KM or KX is a good option<br>

the ME is fully auto<br>

but the ME Super is manual or auto<br>

and has the advantage of a metal shutter.<br>

the K1000 after 30? years could be subject to aging or the rubber/cloth shutter.<br>

The Ricoh K series are fully compatible and have both a metal shutter * up to 1/2000)<br>

and led metering with is less subject to shock and bumps.<br>

the Full auto Ricoh K series have an extra hole that can cause lens mount lockup<br>

with some nerwer lenses. These cameras were also sold as SEARS.<br>

a kr-5 or KR 10 would be very close to what you have.<br>

the main problem with the K-1000 is NOT<br>

with the camera is is a popular CULT camera and highly desired<br>

by many. the KM or KX is not a cult camera and not over priced.</p>

<p>@<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=3667779">Subbarayan Prasanna</a> - The mirror came down when I pushed that lever but will not stay down. Is this still the same problem you're talking about?<br>

Thanks for all the good info about the KM and KX! I'm thinking of getting one of those. If I got another K1000 from eBay, I really couldn't be sure of the construction and with that info about the KM or KX - that they're very good quality and made of all metal, that's great! There's a KM on eBay that I'm looking at right now for buy it now, $58. Is that a bad price or should I keep looking?<br>

The KX sounds great! But I haven't found one yet that would be cheaper than repairing my current K1000. But I'll keep looking. Right now I'm leaning towards purchasing a KM or KX.<br>

One more question - I'm sure I can find something online about this - but can I just push the film rewind button and rewind the film that's in my camera right now? I know I'll be loosing the unexposed pictures, but I don't want to loose the exposed one. I just don't want to do something stupid. :)<br>

Thanks for all your help!</p>

 

<p>hello Tara,<br>

in my opinion, it is not economical to repair your K1000. You can pick up another body cheaper. Go to your local Goodwill or similar. Bought one for $2 just recently and you can look at it first. The KM/KX options are very good and you get a much better featured camera. For your film removal problem: look at your film counter, remember the number, push the rewind button and start rewinding slowly with the camera to your ear. When the film releases off the the take-up spool, there will be a slight noise and no tension on the rewind lever. Stop rewinding. Open the back and the leader should still be out of the film canister so you can put it into another camera. If you are not going to use it for awhile, write the frame number on the film leader. When you put the film into the next camera, wind one or two frames past the original framer number and remember to tell your film processor about this break.</p>

Seems like you'Re on the right track.. be sure to come back and tell us if you bought a KM or KX .. better yet show us.. with the photos you took and the camera you took them with! Once you resolve the current problm with the film you might want to take a closer look yourself at the mirror problem. It might resolve itself. Did you look at the top? is there stick goo froom old light seals? they can be completely removed and easily replaced. The "weak" spring or maybe just a temporary problem with the spring , blow it out like SP mentioned. Good Luck!

<p>Light meters are usually the most fragile part of an old camera, and more often than not do not work. Use the Sunny-16 rule or buy an external meter.</p>

<p>As for the rest, even newer Pentaxes may still have shutter capping problems -- it was common to the beast, especially if they have been sitting unused for a long time.</p>

<p>Try firing the shutter when the mirror is down. It might work. Try a few times; the gears sometimes get synchronized by themselves through these dry runs. Best. sp.</p>

<p>KX & KM are mechanically the same as the K1000. KM has DOF preview, a self timer & a film reminder dial similar to the SPt F. KX has a ctr weighted metering pattern + more features whereas the 1000 & KM measure the full frame. Sounds like your problem is the typical Pentax jam where the mirror tensioning lever slips off the mirror catch lever. This can be corrected by removing the baseplate & is an easy fix. So if you buy a KM or KX, theres no guarantee that you wont have the same problem. As to the meter; if the needle remains ctr'd, you've got an open. Sometimes the black wire to the battery compartment corrodes out . It could also be a bad grd @ the circuit bd. No telling until the camera is opened up. Try the obvious & replace the battery but before doing so, look for corrosion on the SS battery contact & the wall of the battery compartment. If any present, clean w/vinegar & then wipe clean.</p>

<p>I agree with David Smith. If you like the K1000, send it to Garry's Camera. I have used him many times and have always been happy with his work and especially his prices. His web site says he will repair the meter, fix the stuck shutter and do a complete clean lube and adust for $45.00 plus shipping. If you were to buy another K1000 or one of the newer models, who is to say you wouldn't have the same problem? If you have yours repaired, chances are it will last you another 30 years.</p>

<p>If you can't decide what to do just buy a Vivitar V4000 or V4000s for $25 and use that for a while.</p>

<p>This youtube video for unjamming a Spotmatic is applicable to your K1000, too :</p>

<p><a href="

<p>You should also consider a Ricoh KR5 Super II. I have bought a couple of these and neither needed new light seals or a mirror bumper. They have a top speed of 1/2000 which makes it easier to use 400 ISO film on a sunny day. The black body on this camera is small, about ME Super size, and is K-mount. This is one of the better cameras that Ricoh produced.</p>

<p>Tara,<br>

I have a fully working K1000 that I don't use enough. I'll trade you my working one for your broken one for just the cost of postage. (I'll probably try to fix your broken one some rainy day.) Or if you'd rather, I also have a Sears KSX 1000 (aka Ricoh KR5 Super but not Super II) match-needle K-mount camera that has some focus screen marks but otherwise good that I could also send you for the cost of postage (and you keep your K1000.) Let me know if you are interested in either. </p>

<p>I'd probably stay away from another K1000 unless you bought it off KEH and it had a return policy. The meters in them are a constant problem and just not worth the expense to repair. If you invested in Pentax lenses there were options noted above. If your just looking for a good mechanical camera in any brand then there is a whole slew of them out there. Pentax lenses are highly sought after and the good ones are expensive and appear less frequently then say something in Nikon. Whatever you get, full aperture metering is the way to go at least for resale.</p>

<p>I can't believe nobody's suggested you send it to Eric Hendrickson at <a href="http://pentaxs.com/">http://pentaxs.com/</a>. Eric worked for many years for Pentax in their service facility, and has run his own shop now for many years. He's the Pentax man! I sent my KX to him and he did a complete overhaul. He will give you a free estimate.</p>

<p>The advantage to this is that when you get your camera back it will be working, with a guarantee. You won't have to roll the dice on another camera body which might or might not be working.</p>

<p>Wow, thanks so much for the help! I went to take the roll of film out and my camera became unjammed once I hit the film rewind button - or something, at some point after that. I don't know exactly what the problem was in that case. Unfortunately, I am seriously taken by the KX, even though my K1000 is unjammed - that twin needle metering looks so nice, almost like having shutter speed or aperture priority but still all manual. I'm hoooooked. :) Haha. There are two currently for sale on KEH in bargain condition for $79 and $94. So, @<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=332004">Erik Magnuson</a> thanks for the offer but I think I'm going to pursue the KX until I find one.<br>

Does anyone know if KEH checks the light meters in their cameras? I mean, would it say that it doesn't work if it didn't? They have a good return policy, so I could get it and test it I guess. I feel like the condition rating system they have is more cosmetic than anything. Are the meters better in the KX?<br>

Am I silly for wanting to stay in the Pentax K family? Would a Nikon manual system be cheaper to maintain/find lenses for?<br>

I've emailed Eric Hendrickson about my camera a few times actually :) That's who I got the $75 quote for repair from. He was really nice, though.<br>

Sorry I'm still asking questions. Thank you so much for being so helpful.</p>

 

<p>KEH will tell you if the meter's not working. Their rating system is very conservative, so you can have confidence in the camera. Plus as you say you can return it if you're not happy. Keep in mind, though, that these cameras are 35 years old or so, and if you buy one it may soon need a service.</p>

<p>I think the KX is more desirable than the K1000, because of the extra features -- i.e. mirror lockup, depth of field preview, and a meter on/off switch.</p>

<p>I used a KR10 Super by Ricoh briefly until I gave the camera to my sister-in-law-in-moment-of-insanity (along with extra lens). She didn't want to go digital but she was using disposables. My conscience made me do it. Instead if giving her the Rikenon lens that came with it, I gave her my SMC Pentax f2/50. It worked fine. The only thing was that the shutter was electric.</p>

<p>Tara, to my best knowledge all they do is review the camera without taking it apart. I don't believe there is any meter testing done as in a lab setting. They might tho point it as a light, but no one really knows for sure. Ask. So effectively it's cosmetics, seals and does it seem to work. The short return policy, and an extended one if they still offer it, is your safety net.</p>

<p>Thank you guys so much! I ended up biting the bullet and ordering one from KEH. It should be here tomorrow and I'll let you know if its working and all that. I hope it does! </p>

<p>OKAY! KX is in hand. It's in great condition, even though it was said to be in bargain condition. There's just a little part on the bottom where someone had engraved their name :)<br>

Next question... how the heck do I put these batteries in here? I've tried every which way, and still no response from the battery check button. :( I might should start a new thread from this. I found a thread from PentaxForums.com but even reading on there I didn't know if I needed one or two A76/LR44 batteries (I've tried both). I feel dumb. I realize this also could be NOT working, in which case I'll see if I can return it for the other model they have left on KEH and pray that one has a working light meter. Or I guess I could just send it in for repair... I don't know. I'm really in love with all the info being in the viewfinder, though. That's magnificent. <br>

If people have lost interest in this thread, I'll paste this into another.</p>