About what kind of camera for a closeup on 1/2" object

<p>Hi,<br>

I want to take a closeup of a wax stamp on several wills<br>

from the late 1600s and early 1700's. From the reading I've done,<br>

a camera will need to be placed over the image (not hand-held)<br>

at the proper distance. I'm guessing that the library that I'll be accessing<br>

the documents from will not allow me or a camera platform to touch<br>

the documents. So, that probably means the device will have to have<br>

some type of stand that can accommodate that requirement.<br>

Without breaking the bank, can anyone suggest a type of camera<br>

I could use for this ?</p>

<p>Thanks for any suggestions.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/learn/macro/</p>

<p>Thanks Larry. Most of that is over my head as I'm not a camera buff.<br>

I did notice a lot of talk of 1:1. I should have mentioned that I want to<br>

magnify the image as well. I want to get as close a shot with as much<br>

detail as I can...again without paying a bazillion $ for the camera.<br>

Maybe someone might have a specific camera in mind that they<br>

could recommend. I'm trying to keep this under a couple hundred bucks<br>

if possible.</p>

<p>You'll want a copystand like one of the ones listed here: http://www.amazon.com/gp/bestsellers/photo/3443981<br>

and a lens that is capable of 1:1 focusing. A 1:1 ratio means the size of the image on the camera's sensor is the size of the object being photographed. If you are using a Nikon DSLR the 60mm Micro-Nikkor is the best choice. Canon makes a terrific 50mm Macro lens as well. </p>

<p>An alternative and arguably better solution will be scanning the documents if the library allows that. Any desktop size scanner with an optical resolution i the 3200- 4000 dpi range will do a fine job. I use a Canon CanoScan 5600F, also available through Amazon for just under $100, to copy old photographic prints. A scanner will insure the document is held flat and you will not have to worry about lighting. </p>

<p>Thanks Ellis,<br>

the stand will have to be part of the equation I think.<br>

This youtube video helped me understand some of the camera options.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYBy3FQ2E9c&feature=PlayList&p=7D3D4208A8D">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYBy3FQ2E9c&feature=PlayList&p=7D3D4208A8D</a> 214BF&playnext=1&playnext_from=PL&index=2</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Manfrotto Super Clamp attaches to the table. To that you attach a Manfrotto 237 flex arm (or the 237HD heavy duty version) or a Manfrotto Magic Arm. Manfrotto's 143A and 244 Arms include camera mounts.</p>

<p>Henry Posner<br /><strong>B&H Photo-Video</strong></p>

<p>Thanks Henry. I thought a table clamp might be the best way<br>

to go depending on what the library says.<br>

Since I now know this is feasible, I'll have<br>

to call the Library and see if they'll even let me do it.<br>

Thanks everybody for your helpful input.</p>

<p>Jeff</p>

<p> </p>

A Canon SX200 IS p&S has a good macro mode. You definitely need some type of tripod or stand. For lighting, I

would hold a bright LED flashlight very close (LEDs aren't hot like most lights).

<p>Hi Mathew,<br>

sorry, I wish I knew more of the camera jargon, but no such luck.<br>

What is p&s ? About what kind of $ are we talking about for that model?</p>

<p> </p>

Point and Shoot, about $239 (us). Macro does take some skill, but for a p&s the process will be explained, read the

manual carefully. If the wax stamp isn't fairly flat you may need to go to manual mode to force a small aperture for

better depth of field.

<p>All that is very nice but no one has talked about lighting. If you are going to go for direct lighting using the built in camera flash you probably are not going to get what you envisioned. One light on each side with a diffusor over it to soften the light will probably be best. Really you should get an old book on photo basics and look at different types of lighting to pick out the light set up which is going to give you the results you are looking for. A photo forum can give a few suggestions but you should invest the time it takes to read a few chapters of a book if the job is important to you.</p>

<p>I like Henry's suggestion on the camera support. Everyone seems to be thinking digital while I am thinking film. If it were me I would get an Olympus OM10 with a set of extension tubes and the standard or macro 50mm. I say this because the Olympus has a great metering system that tweaks the exposure even during exposure and an OM10 is automatic, both useful points for a person who is not photo savvy.</p>

<p>I was thinking MF but then I always am thinking like that.</p>

<p>Agree with Tom, built-in flash will not work well. Tripod and either existing light or some type of small continuous light, you only need to light a small area. Maybe two, one on each side if you want less contrast.</p>

<p>At home I would use my DSLR and a macro lens. But, at work (non photo related company), I sometimes only have a portable camera available to document something small. The small cameras with macro and super-macro mode can do a decent job. But, let me warn that in super-macro mode you will need to be very close, only an inch or two.</p>

<p>Let me add another idea: if this is for research or non-profit, you might find a generous advanced amateur photographer to do this for you. My camera club receives requests like this and one of the retired people will often do this for free if it won't take much time. </p>

<p>You mention that you don't know much about photography. Learning macro photography and how to use advanced features of a camera is not trivial and this will most likely take you many days to get decent results.</p>

<p>Where are you located? I do have a bunch of connections... As stated above I bet others do also and it may save you a heartache.</p>

<p>Thanks Mathew.</p>

 

<p>Ok, get busy with a penny, your gear at home and practice with your macro lens, extension tubes, ..., your tripod, lights, ... until you get a satisfactory image.</p>

<p>I am assuming you work digitally, so no cost to you, other than time and sweat. Good luck!</p>

<p>Sorry for the delay...<br>

Tom,<br>

I'll do as you suggest regarding lighting. If the Library actually will let me<br>

do this, I want to get it right because I doubt they'll let me do it twice.<br>

Thanks for the suggestions.</p>

 

<p>Hi Mathew,<br>

I had planned to do some practicing before going live, so your<br>

point is well taken.<br>

I may try to hire someone though. But, this is in Virginia and I live<br>

in Savannah, GA.</p>

<p>thanks again.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi Frank,<br>

the Library is the Library of Virginia in Richmond.<br>

If you know any macro pros in the area, maybe you could hook us up.<br>

The one big worry I might have though is to expect to meet someone there<br>

and then have them not show. Then that would also leave me there without<br>

a camera nor experience that I'd need. So, I'm not altogether sure I want to<br>

go that route. I'd rather pay someone to do this correctly, but you see the<br>

possible quandry.<br>

The trip will be some time between June 20th and the end of the month.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Jeff</p>

 

<p>I checked my old Samsung Digimax 350s 3.2 mega pixel camera and found that it<br>

has a macro mode. I have wanted to do closeups in the past<br>

and they came out blurry of course. After all these years I find that I could have hit<br>

the macro button and gotten what I wanted. Figures...<br>

I spoke with the library and they may or may not allow me to use a tripod or some<br>

mechanical means to keep the camera still. I'm going to beg them to let me use something<br>

that will do that. I also read that it's a good idea to set the camera to take the picture<br>

automatically so as not to shake the camera by pressing the button. The library said I cannot use a flash or any other form of lighting. That's kind of a bummer. But, at least this camera allows<br>

me to shut off the flash too.<br>

I tested using the zoom set to maximum and held the camera about 8" from the inside of<br>

an envelope (one of the ones that have those odd patterns). It's not fantastic, but I think it's good enough for what I want to do. And, it might get better if I can keep from shaking the camera. I'll see if I can upload the test image.</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>I thought I'd try another twist. I put a magnifying glass about 2" above<br>

a 1943 steel penny. I was able to see that the "4" was missing from the date.<br>

I think magnification beyond what the zoom can do will be desirable.<br>

I believe I read about some kind of combo macro lenses one can use with a regular camera,<br>

although I don't see any way it could attach to my camera.</p>

<div></div>

<p>I had seen a number of folks use magnifying glasses to take macro shots.<br>

Seems most attach the magnifying glass to a tube and then to the camera<br>

lens. That is not going to work with my retracting zoom lens. I wondered if<br>

a magnifying lens can be velcro'd directly onto the end of the zoom lens<br>

such that the magnifying glass will retract with the lens and not act as an<br>

obstruction. I guess my question is whether the magnifying glass lens can<br>

be affixed directly onto the end of the normal lens or does it have to be some<br>

distance from the camera lens?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I went to the camera store yesterday to ask about magnified macro photography<br>

and showed them my camera. The owner immediately showed me a Panasonic Lumix Model ZS8.<br>

He took a magnified photo of a dime. I was very impressed how vivid and magnified the image was. The auto-focus seemed to compensate for any movement too. We were trying to determine if I could get away with not using a tripod. He took multiple pictures and only one looked a little blurry. I'll just take multiple pictures being as still as I can.<br>

So, I bought the Panasonic and problem solved.<br>

Thanks for everyone's help.</p>

<p>Jeff</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Heh, new member here, late as usual to the forum. You've apparently solved your problem, but here's a "won't break the bank" trick I use: A good cell phone camera (I use a DroidX) held on top of a loupe will maginify small objects quite sharply. I bought a combo magnifying glass/loupe at Office Depot for ten dollars. The magnifying part is a 3x curved cup that lays flat on a table and the 12x loupe is moulded into the side at just the right distance from the tabletop (or whatever). I can't get an image to load properly here, but you can see examples at: http://technopeasant.org</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Stewart,<br>

thanks for the tip. Yeah, $300 was within my "not breaking the bank" rule.<br>

I'm just stunned at how phenomenal this camera takes closeups. I'd upload a photo,<br>

but I suspect the size is not going to work. I'll try later, but I think the closeups<br>

I took are about 4mb in size. Unreal detail. I also learned that in order to get a good shot<br>

without a stand, I just half-press the button to get it focused, then click the rest of the<br>

way and it comes out so clear.</p>