julien_boudreau Posted May 12, 2011 Share Posted May 12, 2011 <p>I have a Leica M6 classic on its way from CLA. It's been a long time coming, and I'm very excited. I have never used a flash with my SLR setup, a Nikon FM2n, so I don't know much about flash work. This being said, there's an SF20 on sale locally, and I'm probably going to purchase the unit. </p> <p>Is the classic M6 easy to use with a flash? Any good reference sites for this? It's not something I'll be doing very often, but would like to know how to use a flash in case I ever need one. I also understand that the M6 classic is not the ideal flash camera, but I got it for other reasons. </p> <p>Cheers, </p> <p>J</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SCL Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 <p>I used an old Vivitar occasionally as well as an old Metz potato masher on my M6 and my M4. Used both flashes in the auto mode both direct and bounced flash and always got excellent results. The only drawback I saw was that the slow synch speed made fill flash occasionally a challenge. Just get a good book on flash, read it twice, and it is pretty hard to go wrong.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robert_hooper1 Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 <p>I wouldn't bother with the Leica SF 20 flash, Julien. It has a fixed head which will severely limit your lighting technique options. Buy an aftermarket flash with swivel and tilt capabilities.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koray_p Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 <p>Unless sold for a ridiculous price, there is no point in buying a Leica brand or dedicated flash for your M6 classic. Buy any flash with a standard hot shoe. Thrift stores are your friend.</p> <p>K.</p> <p>EDIT: I've got Sunpak 1600A, a small bounce flash that runs with 2 AA batteries.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Williams Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 <p>I agree the SF20 is not the best buy if you have an M6 classic. It has dedicated flash circuitry that only works with the M6-TTL, M7, and some R models. On the M6 classic it just behaves like any other standard auto flash, and you can buy more versatile models for less, e.g. a new Metz 36-C2 will often be cheaper than a secondhand SF20: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/273079-REG/Metz_MZ_53622_mecablitz_36_C2_Auto_Flash.html</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mukul_dube Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 <p>Any camera whose shutter can synchronise with flash is a "flash camera". With all the cameras I have used in nearly 50 years, including Leicas for over 20 years, I have sometimes had to use flash: although my preference for decades (and not only with Leicas) has been available light work. My M3 with CTOOM bracket and Sunpak 1600A (same as Koray P. above) makes a formidably handy combination for relatively short distances. There are few suitable flash-guns available new: but there are plenty in the used market.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john_layton Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 <p>I owned and used an SF-20 for awhile...with both my TTL and earlier "straight" M-6. I actually found it to be a little gem of a flash - quite accurate with the old M-6 also, when using with the "auto-eye" non ttl mode. I also got into the habit of connecting the SF-20 via a Nikon SB-16 coiled flash cord, as the connections are the same and work perfectly with either camera. At any rate, with the flash being thus connected, and also being so small and light, I could simply leave the cord with attached flash slung around my neck - out of the way and yet at the ready. </p> <p>While I, personally, really don't equate my M-camera photography with the use of a flash, I kind of miss my SF-20 on a cord sometimes. It was particularly adept at situations where there was low but adequate ambient light, to which I wanted to add just a hint of flash...not visibly so but just to fill shadows slightly, and/or to add just a hint of sparkle to highlights.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SolaresLarrave Posted May 13, 2011 Share Posted May 13, 2011 That's exactly what the SF-20 is good for. I have one for my M6TTL bodies and cannot ask for more. But then, if I were to use a flash with a regular M6, I'd look for another type with a swivel head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_bud Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 <p>The SF20 will work quite well with your M6. The SF20 is small, light and completely matches the M6 for most use. Put the SF20 in the AUTO Mode and input ASA, set aperture and match camera aperture, set corect shutter and matching aperture on the M6 and your good to go.<br> I have a big Metz unit with all the bells and whistles but I only use it off camera on a handle to do flash with an M6 and 21mm f2.8 ASPH. It's a big rig.<br> The SF24D is a later model with a couple of more aperature settings and updated for later M cameras. I use the SF24D on M6 M7's in TTL Mode a lot and on the M6 in AUTO Mode.-Dick</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
julien_boudreau Posted May 14, 2011 Author Share Posted May 14, 2011 <p>Thanks to all who replied, </p> <p>The SF20 is a good price, so I'll probably get it. I know the seller, and he's going to let me use it first to see if I like it. Obviously, I don't know the first thing about flash photography. Just a few questions;</p> <p>1. The M6 has a flash sync of 1/50 - is that the fastest shutter speed I can use? <br> 2. Is there any way to get around this, in case I want to use it outdoors on the street for fill?</p> <p>I won't be using flash much. The opportunity came up and I thought I should have one just in case. </p> <p>J</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotografz Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 <p>1/50th is it. You'll have to use slower film, and/or stop down, and/or ND filters.</p> <p>In darker conditions, 1/50th isn't much of an issue since it is usually the short flash duration that freezes the action for subjects in the foreground.</p> <p>BTW, I use the S-Fill diffuser made specifically for the SF flashes, and one trick I learned for fill use when shooting in portrait mode is to orient the flash to the opposite side of the key light source.</p> <p>-Marc </p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh_carr Posted May 14, 2011 Share Posted May 14, 2011 <p>In t'olden days you could have a sync speed up to 1/1000 (albeit with a lowish Guide Number) by using the right type of slow-burning flashbulb. However, the M6 doesn't have the required M-sync socket which ignites the bulb before the first curtain gets moving, nor are bulbs readily available these days. I remember them from the 1970s, and they were getting to be a niche product then.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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