which slr camera to put behind a 50/55 1.2 lens?

<p>Hi!</p>

<p>I would like to shoot 35 film on a manual focus camera, using either 55/50 1.2 nikkor or canon lens.<br>

Any suggestions? Which focusing screen would be the best, in case I can change it on the camera?<br>

I also need dioptre adjustment... Aperture prority would be a big plus.<br>

Thank you for your help!</p>

<p>Christa</p>

<p>You want a Nikon F6 body.</p>

<p>Yeah.... anything more "modest" ? I'd like something older/ more discrete...</p>

Nikon F3HP. Aperture priority, not a beastly size, built like a brick outhouse and a phenomenally good viewfinder for

folk wearing glasses. Use the standard K screen (the later brighter "red dot" version)

<p>You didn't say if the Nikon lens was Non-ai, Ai, or Ais. You didn't say if the Canon lens was FL or FD.</p>

<p>Get an FM or FE (Nikon) unless the lens is non-ai. Try an FTb or FTbn for the Canon if FD.</p>

<p>Canon cameras are mostly shutter priority except for the F1n, t90, t70, and av-1.<br>

But your cheapest option would be probably be a FTb with a FL 55mm f1.2. But that is full manual.<br>

Most nikon cameras are aperture priority but im not up to speed on all the models.<br>

An older nikkor f1.2 may be found relatively cheaply. One of the Nikkormats would be a good choice.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>In fact I did not purchase the lens yet! I would prefer Nikon, as I own a D700, but I would not mind Canon, if their 1.2 lens is good enough wide open.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>An Nikon F2 or a Nikkormat EL will work fine with an older, non-AI Nikkor-S 55mm f/1.2. Either will cost less than newer Nikon lens versions (AI, and later) that work better on newer cameras like the F6, and the camera will be considerably cheaper than an F6.<br>

If you have to go stop-down metering or no metering anyhow, as with many newer Nikons, it may be cheaper and easier to shoot that lens on any Canon EOS camera ever made in aperture-preferred mode with a cheap Nikon>EOS adapter (usually less than $25). Many early model Canon EOS film cameras sell on eBay in working condition at under $30. Canon EOS f/1.2 lenses still work on newer models, so there are no bargains there. The older Canon FD f/1.2 lenses will only work well on the pre-EOS Canons like the AE-1, AE-1 Program, or the T90. Only the last is likely to be more than $100, the others are often sold for $20-30, being made in the millions and mostly still working, especially if the light seals are replaced.</p>

<p>Quick, accurate focusing of fast lenses at wide apertures is best handled by a pro level body, synonymous with a large, bright finder. In the Nikon line consider the F3/F3HP (G screen). Diopter is interchangeable via thread-mount. F4 and especially 4s and 5 are geting a little big and awfully heavy for MF needs. An F100 merits strong consideration given the cost and <em>numerous </em>features, among them an adjustable, built-in diopter. A Beattie Intenscreen improves MF'ing on the F100. I suspect you'll have another lens or two, eventually, perhaps AF. For this reason, as well as your own: F100. Mine continues to serve very faithfully...along with the F3. Tough call.</p>

<p>Of the Nikon bodies I have, my favorites (and my recommendations) are the F3HP and the F100. The F3 is a wonderful camera to use and, as David C. indicated, it's got a wonderful build quality. The F100 is relatively lightweight for being such a sturdy, pro-caliber (calibre?) camera but it allows you to use AF lenses of course and also the older MF lenses, while still giving you focus confirmation with these lenses. <em>The best of both worlds! </em>Once you pick it up you'll be hooked<em>.</em> Also consider the FE/FE2. As for Canon, the T90 is simply a phenomenal camera, one of the very nicest 35mm cameras ever made...'nuff said. Also look at an F-1 if you want Canon's version of a brick outhouse.</p>

The F3 does have that big finder. Though since I started using an FE2 I started to appreciate the needle meter over

the +/- meter. And the F100 does do everything (except properly handle pre-AI lenses and no mirror lockup). Heck,

they're all excellent, so do you want big, medium or small?

<p>By the way, there are also inexpensive Nikon>Canon FD adapters that work well -- they are little harder to find, but are usually present on eBay at any given time. So a nice non-AI 55mm f/1.2 Nikkor will work with stop-down for TTL metering on an late model Canon FD camera as well as on the newer Canon EOS cameras.</p>

<p>Without a doubt, since you already have a D700, go with the fantastic 50mm f/1.2 Nikkor.<br /> It's a stunning performer! (Sharper stopped down to f/1.4 and f/2 than it's <strong>wide open</strong> siblings)</p>

<p>The latest versions are relatively <strong>inexpensive</strong> <em>considering</em> the skyrocketing prices of so many high speed rangefinder lenses.</p>

<p>As far as the body, this lens makes most any Nikon model better. (Super bright views) Nikon FA bodies are cheap and have the wonderful features of a camera such as the FE2, combined with the matrix metering of later models.</p>

Oh, I missed the part about the D700. Do you like the D700? You can certainly use a 50/1.2 AI lens on that, better yet

get a Katz Eye focusing screen for it, and if you want to add film to your system an F100 is quite similar to a D700 in

size and feel, and in lens and accessory compatibility. (Unless you have any of the newest flashes, like an SB700 or

900, you can probably use all of your D700 stuff on an F100.)

<p>More discrete? (a 50 or 55mm f/1.2 is hardly discrete but in any event) skip SLR camera designs altogehter and get a Leica M4, M4-2, M4-P, or M6 rangefinder and a Leica Noctilux-M 50 mm f/0.95 ASPH lens. </p>

<p>Oh it's plenty discrete, but it may fail to be discreet. ;)<br>

I'd go for a nice Canon rangefinder (<a href="http://www.canon.com/camera-museum/camera/film/data/1956-1965/1957_vtdx.html?lang=us&categ=crn&page=1956-1965">e.g., link</a>) with one of their legendary large aperture lenses rather than a Leica.</p>