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Hasselblad 250mm F5.6 CF T*?


timlayton

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<p>Hi, I wanted to check back with the group here about the 250mm F5.6 CF T* lens. I've been building out my 503CW kit and to date I've got the 80mm CF, 40mm CFi and 150mm CF lens so far. I am getting ready to travel soon where there are some vast open spaces where I know I will want more focal length. I've read a lot of pros and cons about the 250 around the web and wanted to query the group here and get comments from anyone that owns the lens. I would be interested in your opinion of the optical quality and how you use the lens.</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>Tim</p>

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<p>The CF250/5.6 is not quite as sharp as a 180, but a decent performer nonetheless. It is nearly as sharp wide open as closed down two stops. You still need to exercise great care to get the most out of this lens, just as with all medium format photography. The 250/5.6 Superachromat is one of the sharpest Hasselblad lenses, with a commensurate price tag.</p>

<p>Long shots are going to suffer for a variety of non-camera related things, including haze and atmospheric convection. It is not a lens I pack in a "day" bag very often, since the 180 is a better lens and usually long enough.</p>

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<i>"A decent performer"</i> is a bit of an understatement. It's a most excellent performer.<br>Put it on a tripod, and it will produce images with finer detail than will be visible in prints and projected slides without using a loupe on them or moving very close to that projected image.<br><br>The performance wide open, compared to stopped down, is such that you do not need to stop the lens down except for exposure reasons.<br><br>Which is a good thing, seeing the only less good thing of the lens: with f/5.6 and 250 mm length, handholding is a bit tricky. When not using a tripod, look for and make use of any other support you can find.
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<p>I own and use the C version.<br /> There is absolutely no reason to stop down for anything other than exposure control. (Noticed that Q.G. has said similar.) Reading Ernst Wildi's praise of this lens, including yes, it's performance wide open, is actually what made it the first Hasselblad lens I ever purchased, in fact even before I bought the camera to mount it on.<br /> Mine, being an early C without T* multi-coating, renders it dependent on the Pro lens shade C with appropriate mask. Then it performs as well as the CF version, the optics being otherwise identical.<br /> I use the lens for outdoor work at all distances to infinity, and in the studio is a favourite for tight-cropped portraits in combination with 21mm extension tube. It is a wonderfully versatile lens.<br /> My outfit is comprised of 50, 80 (missing), 100, 120, 150 and the 250. I select 2 or maximum 3 to travel with, simply because of the weight.<br /> Given that you have the 150mm, the 250 will provide you with greater scope, and thus be a far more sensible choice than the 180.</p>
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<p><a href="00XBLW?start=10"><strong>Here is a discussion</strong></a> where I have posted a portrait taken with the 5.6/250 mm Sonar C and 21mm extension. (Scroll half way down the page).<br /> Sorry, no time to search, find and scan other images with the 250 at present, at least not in time to help you just now. But you will be seeing some results of new work done in Thailand with both the 250 and 150 mm Sonar. Portraits and my local landcsape.</p>
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<p>I have attached a comparison between a CF180/4 (upper) and CF250/5.6 (lower), taken of the same subject, exposure and distance. The left panels are the entire frame, and the right panels are 100% (pixel=pixel) crops. There is no sharpening or adjustment. If I recall, the aperture was set to f/8 and the shutter speed approximately 1/30 (sorry, no EXIF data or exposure diary).</p><div>00YOYy-339589584.jpg.6b0f6ce4d3e01ed14c5aa984cabf1969.jpg</div>
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<p>I've had two or three 250mm lenses - all chrome C lenses. Still have one.</p>

<p>It is a very sharp lens and I use it mostly with a yellow filter for B&W. No issues with my negatives. 16x20 prints are excelent. I almost always use a tripod with it.</p>

<p>It was sharp enough for Ansel Adams and it is sharp enough for me. Since you have the 150 the 180 doesn't make sense for you. Get a 250 and enjoy it.</p>

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<p>Thanks for commenting everyone, I appreciate it very much. I do have a question about filters now that I think about it. Since I am just building out my kit I haven't needed any filters yet, but I know that is only a matter of time. All of my lenses have the Bay 60 mount so that makes it easy for me. I was wondering if anyone has used the Pro series Cokin filters? I have a full series of ND and B/W filters that I could use. I searched on B&H and found Bay 60 to 72 or 77 adapters that would work. My only concern is that if I go the route with the Cokin filters that I will lose my lens hood. I assume I could buy individual screw on filters that would not interfere with the lens hood, but I would like to know everyone's experience before I order anything else.</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>Tim</p>

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<p>Anthony,</p>

<p>Can you post a 100% crop from the portrait in that other thread? How do you find the 250 compares to a 150?</p>

<p>The results I get with a 250 are fairly represented in the example above. I usually don't swap lenses just to make a comparison, but I had the full kit with me and the moment seemed right.</p>

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Tim,<br><br>I solved (most) of my filter woes by getting one of those Hasselblad 6093 ProShades the moment the became available.<br>These shades fit all of my lenses, from wide to long, smallest mount (bayonet 50) to largest mount (93 mm), and take one set of filters: 100 mm square resin filters (i think Cokins are not quite that size though. I use Sinar and Lee filters).<br>Most, because the ProShade does not take oversized graduatd filters. And Polarizers still need to be of the glass variety and have to go on the lens (but can be combined with the filters in the shade).
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<p>Edward,</p>

<p>I'm not sure which thread you are referring to. Can you post the link or PM me on it?</p>

<p>As to filters, all my C lenses are BAY 50 except for the 50mm which is Series 8. I use a BAY 50 to 52mm adapters and just use my 52mm filters. The shades fit over just fine. With the 50mm I have four Series 8 filters that cover my needs - Skyligh, Y12, R25, and a green.</p>

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