ADVICE BUYING DSLR FOR KIDS' SPORTS

<p>Would like to spend max $1000. for DSLR camera to take indoor/outdoor soccer, baseball and basketball pics of my kids. Like to upload to order prints on-line....suggestions? Thank you.</p>

<p>Julie, my 2 cents.<br>

Anyone here can make any numerous arguments to buy one camera (or system) over another; Nikon, Cannon, Pentax... they could all potentially give you the results you're looking for given the right mix of body and lens. I would suggest going to a local camera store and "test driving" a couple of systems. I personally like Canon however you may think of one camera system being more suited to you over another. DON'T get caught up over labels. Also, depending on your interests, there are many cameras available used at a substantial savings - allowing room for multiple lenses, a bag or other gear as you would like :)<br>

Despite all that, some general points to educate yourself on, (and abilities to look for in a camera) specifically for sports shooting are ISO range, frames/second, low light auto focus capabilities and wide aperture lenses (video as well if you are interested). There is allot of good reading in the learning tab here on PN. <br>

Commit to a camera system that feels good (in hand) to you with an interface that is easy for you to understand. You'll be way more satisfied in the end.</p>

<p>If you eliminate the requirement for shooting indoors there are a lot of cameras that will be OK outside in the sunshine but I'd suggest a used Nikon D300 or D300s which should run you $800 to $1000 for the body.</p>

<p>Pentax k-x and two lens kit(DA 18-55 DA 55-300) run about $600.</p>

<p>Julie - Definitely go to a local store (If possible) and try out a couple of different bodies from the various manufacturers and see what fits.</p>

<p>Pretty much all DSLR's currently go from 100 / 200 to 6400 or higher ISO. The higher the ISO - the less light you'll need to shoot in or you can use a slower lens (F4.5 instead of f2.8)</p>

<p>Years ago - when I bought my first DSLR - I went to the store and tried both a Nikon and a Canon - both were about the same cost - but the Nikon menus and controls felt more comfortable to me. I have not regretted it since. Are there times when Canon announces something new and cool that I wish I had? yep - but I get over it pretty quickly - since Nikon either has something neat and different or just neat!</p>

<p>If you want specific advice - I'd look at the following from Nikon:<br>

D200 - used - nice starter camera - around 500 - 600 for the body.<br>

D300 - used - Upgrade from the D200 - gives excellent high iso performance<br>

D5000 - D3100 - New or used - nikon's newer consumer bodies - these contain a lot of plastic - but sports parents love them.<br>

You could also see about finding a D90 - new or used.<br>

AVOID - D40, D40x, D50, D60, D70, and D80. Frame rate is not fast enough on any of these for sports (although I've shot sports with D70 and D40 - I would not recommend doing it.)</p>

<p>Probably priced too high<br>

D7000 - New - consumer camera - but offers a lot of the prosumer features.</p>

<p>You'll also need to find a nice lens - the 70-300 VR is fairly reasonable and the Non-VR version is even more reasonable. Neither is "Pro" glass - F2.8 - but for a parent on the blechers or on side - should be plenty.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

 

<p>Hi Julie,</p>

<p>I do the same, that is about 90% of my photos are of my kids' sporting events, mostly indoor (basketball and gymnastics) and outdoor (soccer). If you're going to shoot indoor sports I should warn you that at some events flash is prohibited for the safety of the athletes. And, even if it isn't you may be too far away for it to be effective. Most gyms I've been in have very poor lighting to boot. You should look for a camera body that gives good quality photos at ISO3200 or higher and lens(es) of f/4 or larger, f/2.8 would be preferable, but expensive.</p>

<p>I have Canon gear, but I think the advice goes regardless of the label. Since David did a thorough job of summarizing the Nikon lineup I'll try to give a couple of Canon suggestions that fit into your budget:</p>

<p>For a body, the Rebel T1i would give you good high ISO performance for about $550 new, less if used.</p>

<p>A couple of lenses I've used that I like for sports which might fit into your budget:<br>

Canon EF 70-200 f/4L (about $500 used, $600 new) good for outdoor sports on a large field or indoor where you're far from the action. I've since upgraded to the f/2.8 version which is better for indoor sports but twice the price.<br>

Tamron 28-75 f/2.8 (about $350 used, $500 new), good for indoor sports where you're closer to the action, like basketball. I bought one used and get great shots of my son's basketball games. Tamron lenses are also available for other brands of camera should you choose Nikon, etc.</p>

<p>Another thing to consider is a large-capacity memory card. I find I can take 400-500 photos in one game or meet. I have an 8 GB card which I fill quickly. Take a lot of photos and delete the ones you don't like. The more you practice the better you'll get. Good luck and hope this helps!</p>

 

 

<blockquote>

<p><em><strong>"spend max $1000. for DSLR camera</strong> to take <strong>indoor/outdoor soccer, baseball and basketball pics</strong> of my kids. Like to <strong>upload to order prints on-line</strong>....suggestions?"</em></p>

</blockquote>

 

<p><em> </em><br>

<strong><em>1. Does that Budget include the lens?</em></strong></p>

<p>The lens will be the most critical (and probably more costly) element if the Indoor Soccer is in a School Gym or similar location - this applies if the Basket Ball is inside also.</p>

<p>The next considerations are<br>

<strong><em>2. where will you be located relative to the (inside) action?</em></strong><br>

<strong><em>3. will you have the ability to move?</em></strong><br>

This goes to the FL of the lens or the compass of the zoom you will require.<br>

To ensure you can capture sports action in these INDOOR lighting conditions, you need to buy a camera which will give reasonable performance at ISO3200, ISO6400 would be good and you will need (if a zoom) a lens which has an F/2.8 Non-Varying Maximum Aperture.<br>

Prime Lenses can be had with faster apertures. </p>

<p>Apropos outdoor sports (assuming) DAYTIME:<br>

the two same questions: <br>

<em><strong>4. where will you be located relative to the (outside) action?</strong></em><br>

<em><strong>5. will you have the ability to move?</strong></em><br>

You may need a longer lens (than for indoors) if you are relegated to the stands and / or cannot move along the sideline.<br>

You will finds that the access to run the sideline and the fitness to do same will allow you to buy fewer and or less expensive lenses to cover the majority of the action.</p>

<p>I don't use a fast frame rate for those sports mentioned - especially at junior level: other Photographers shoot differently and neither method is better, just different techniques, but shooting "one shot"does allow me to emhasise (and suggest to you) good AF over frame rate; and good ISO performance at high ISO over both - if you are on a budget. <br>

IMO the major hurdle will be to get $1000 worth of gear to shoot adequate enough to produce a product for sale - if that initial budget includes the lens(es) especially if you cannot move and or if you want a zoom lens(es).</p>

<p>WW</p>

 

<p>My high school basketball photos. <br />Sony alpha 55 - $749 body only.<br />Sony 50mm f1.8 lens - $169 or Sony 50mm f1.4 lens - $349.<br /><a rel="nofollow" href="https://picasaweb.google.com/Ron.and.Alina/HighSchoolBasketball" target="_blank">https://picasaweb.google.com/Ron.and.Alina/HighSchoolBasketball#</a><br>

The aperture, ISO, shutter speed etc. is displayed under "Photo Information" on the right. <br />Press F11 for full screen.<br>

The f1.8 shots were taken with a Sony 50mm f1.8 lens.<br />The f1.4 shots were taken with a Sony 50mm f1.4 lens.<br>

At first I used a 50mm f1.8 lens wide open, which I ended up exchanging for the f1.4.<br />I found that my ISO 6400 shots were sharper than my ISO 3200 ones.<br />It appeared to me that shutter speeds above 1/2000 gave the best result.</p>

<p >When shooting at f1.4, I could not use ISO 6400 because the shutter speed required was often faster than the 1/4000 maximum. But this was at a different gym that had brighter lighting.</p>