bruce_erickson1 Posted February 12, 2011 Share Posted February 12, 2011 <p>Has anyone used this fixer and is there anything unusual one should know about it? Being an alkaline fixer I would guess that one ought not to use a stop bath after development, only a water rinse(?) <br />Would one still need to use a fixer clearing agent? (I know, one does not have to do this but with most fixers it certainly reduces the wash time.)</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian_quinn2 Posted February 13, 2011 Share Posted February 13, 2011 <p>See here<br> <a title="Reload this Page" href="http://www.apug.org/forums/forum37/67762-why-did-my-tf-5-fix-change-color-2.html">Why Did My TF-5 Fix Change Color?</a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john romano Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 <p>Great fixer. I use it for paper and film. No "bleaching effect" with this fixer.</p> <p>I use water stop only with these alkaline fixers. Using traditional acidic fixer will present problems.</p> <p>I haven't a need to use a clearing agent with this fixer given that I use 30 seconds agitation per minute with shortened times. However, T-Max films "need" a clearing agent even with this fixer when I process them.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john romano Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 <p>Excuse me, but I meant to say that traditional acidic <strong>STOP BATH </strong>will present problems.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jerryjohnson Posted February 27, 2011 Share Posted February 27, 2011 <p>I don't know if this will be much help, but.. I use TF-4, the predesesor to TF-5, as my fixer for PMK developing. I've never had to use anything more than a plain water bath after fixing. With TF-4 it recommends adding 50% more fixing time to any film with a magenta stain, so far, I haven't had any problems doing that.<br> I tend to be especially cautious when it comes to what fixer I use, since an acidic fixer can have some real bad consequences when using a pyro staining developer. Just as a note though, the films I typically use are Adox CHS Art 25, Efke 100, Rollei Pan 25, and Ilford HP5+.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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