D2x on a monopod with 2 sb-800's

<p>Perhaps a sports question. I would like to mount two sb800's on a monopod an use TTL.<br>

I have an sc-17 from the hotshoe to the first one. Is there a way to connect to the second flash either from the sc cored or the flash and still have TTL?<br>

I was at a sporting event and saw a Cannon shooter with a special cord with two hotshoes. But have been unable to find anything for Nikon.<br>

Any help would be appreciated.</p>

<p>For reasons I don't understand, Nikon says you can't do multi-flash TTL with cords on DSLR's (or any other cameras with Creative Lighting System). It's on page 90 of the SB-800 manual.</p>

<p>I suppose it might be possible to design a rig that had the non-wired flash far enough forward to "see" the wired flash with its light sensor window, but that sounds pretty awkward for a sports rig.</p>

<p>Todd: If the non-wired flash had its sensor turned toward the master, wouldn't that work while allowing both flashes to be equidistant from the subject? There are brackets available to mount two or three flashes on a stand or stick.</p>

<p>Peter -<br>

I'm assuming two things here, because Jim mentioned sports: he is outdoors or otherwise away from friendly "white walls", and he is probably running his SB-800's on "tele" mode.</p>

<p>Not having run my own tests, I'm just thinking he'll have to have his non-wired flash's sensor far enough forward of the wired emitter so that it reliably "sees" it. This *might* be doable on something like a 12" bracket that was angled 45 degrees; just enough to get the one flash a bit in front of the other. Assuming the action is 20+ feet away, that's still "equidistant" enough to be a non-factor. But still a bit of a handful. </p>

<p>The last cannon (sic) shooter I saw was last summer at a Civil War reinactment, but only one at a time. Some of the spectators were using Canon cameras.</p>

<p>Nikon SB-800 flash units can be daisy-chained with special 3-wire extension cables with full TTL capability. The master flash could be fired with a shoe-to-shoe Nikon cable on a bracket. At such close range, you could also use the IR port, but not around other shooters with flash.</p>

<p>Todd brings up a good point about the rig being a " ... bit of a handful." Depending on the body and lens you're using, this might work better with the flashes mounted on a light stand rather than a monopod.</p>

<p>You can connect single commander(flash) SB800/SB900/SU800 via SC28 or SC29 TTL cable to your camera hot shoe.</p>

<p>Also Nikon TTL multiwire compatible extender cables were made and used by a 3rd party vendor. The extender must be all needed wires cable, and 2 or 3 wires would not make the iTTL connection.</p>

<p>The one and only one commander flash can command remotely and wirelessly as many flashes as you need, using the CLS protocol and compatible flash and cameras, preserving TTL automation of flash/ambient light exposure.</p>

<p>Due to the CLS preflashes and some dalay involved, this is not the best solution for sports, not to mention possibility of blinding the players, and get the photographer expelled from the action area.</p>

<p>You cannot daily chain multiple Nikon CLS flashes for wired TTL operation, no matter how many wires you use. The CLS is wireless system.</p>

<p>Possibly you could only utilize Manual flashes mode, and posiibly then your flashes could be wired, if all pins other than central sync pins in flashes hot feet are isolated, and the flashes operate like some 20+ years old flashes.</p>

<p>I used remote CLS flashes on a monopod, held high and positioned by an asistant, who was aware of Nikon CLS capabilities, and always made good visual location from the commander for all flashes. He was dynamically changing position, as the action on the scene required.</p>

 

<p>The Nikon extender cable fires all flashes at the same power level, based on the total light measured TTL. (The power level in a Nikon flash is controlled by the flash duration, not intensity.)</p>

<p>While your question has a fairly simple technical resolution, I don't think a flash or two on the camera is the best way to handle a sporting event. Something called the "inverse square law" means that the light falls off very quickly. If you expose for the action, then the foreground will be washed out while the background goes black. Besides, a single flash bracket is cumbersome enough, let alone a double bracket.</p>

<p>The real answer is to use available light. In dim light, use high ISO film, or crank up the DSLR. Forty years ago, I was using Tri-X developed in 1:1 Dektol to get ISO 1200 with grain like blackened catfish. You have it a LOT easier now.</p>

<p>In order to freeze action without excessive grain or noise, the pro's install (or rent) high powered strobe units in the rafters, and use radio triggers. The light looks natural, not blasted and pasty like an on-camera flash, and no red-eye either.</p>

<p>Oh well, you learn by experience, and you get experience by making mistakes. Tell us how it works out.</p>

<p>Thanks everyone.<br>

Todd, I found the "not possible with digital slr's and cool pix" at the top of page 92, I was reading page 90 and it was a little confussing.<br>

I should have been a little clearer. I would like to mount the camera on the monopod with the two flashes below it, to shine a little light under the helmets in football and motox. It's run and gun without an assistant. I have had some sucess with CLS with one on camera and two hand held (Dave Black) but would like something a little more compact, I thought with a second flash, I would get maybe another stop or quicker recyle time.<br>

If I only had an su800, I thing it would work.<br>

Thanks again for your ideas, I guess it's one light for now, or two with pocket wizards.</p>

<p>Is there any reason that you couldn't use an AS-10 and SC-18. The AS-10 provides all 5 (including ground) connections and the SC-18 should connect it to the SC-17 you already have. Though I think you would also want some cable ties given all the extra cable you would have. Are you wanting to attach the flashes with something like a super clamp on the lower portion of your monopod? I feel like I have seen an SC-17 being sold that was modified to have too flash heads and short cables. </p>

<p>If you want a faster recycling time, use an high-voltage battery pack like a Quantum Turbo. If you want more light, use a larger flash, like a Q-flash, Norman or Lumadyne (which incidently recyle in about a second). Quantum and Lumadyne have optional reflectors for use with a telephoto lens. There are various Fresnel lens attachments which will concentrate the light, giving you at least a stop more light at football distances with any flash, including an SB-800.</p>

<p><em>"The Nikon extender cable fires all flashes at the same power level, based on the total light measured TTL."</em><br />This was perhaps true with film TTL, or possibly with TTL mode of the SU-4 unit?<br />However, as Todd explained, you cannot wire CLS flashes and use them on D2X and achieve TTL.</p>

<p>Also, in the Nikon CLS. each flash can produce a different amount of light, depending on the setting, position and direction, and results of the multi-flash pre-flash testing, and yet all flashes together will preserve iTTL automation, but it must be done wirelessly.</p>