Orthochromatic B&W

<p>Greetings all. I'm not new to shooting or processing B&W film, but I've never shot orthochromatic film before and I need some advise. Is it any different than panchromatic? I just bought a box of 4X5 Ilford ortho film to be used at a Civil War reenactment this June. I bought it early so I could get familier with it before then but I need your help. <br>

1. Is there any special advise for shooting it? Filtration or exposure for example.<br>

2. Are there any tips on processing ortho film that is different from panchromatic? Are any developers prefered over others? What's my best bet? <br>

I'll probably process each sheet individually but any advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone. Cheers!</p>

<p>Don't use a red filter. :)</p>

<p>Hi David,</p>

<p>I've never used the Ilford Ortho, but have used the Rollei Ortho 25 a lot. From shooting other Ilford films, I would say that you could rate this at box speed without any trouble. Being that you are shooting 4x5, why not use a developer made for acutance, such as Rodinal (or Adonal, since the re-branding).</p>

<p>In terms of filtration, yes, don't use a red filter with ortho film. You can use a yellow filter tho, or any filter that doesn't block out the frequency of light that ortho is responsive too. I seem to remember trying a green filter once with ortho and the frame came out blank, but that could've been Adox CMS 20. Let me check my notes and see.</p>

<p>Can I (sort of) reverse some advice you have already been given:- if you wish to develop by inspection, make sure you DO use a red safelight, and not orange, brown or pale green.<br>

The brown fluorescent safelight tubes in the college darkroom a few years back fogged Ilford Ortho a treat!</p>

<p>Nick I was speaking of a red filter on the camera. :)</p>

<p>Thank you all for your help. I will probably develop my film in total darkness just like my normal B&W film because I don't have a red safelight. Other than the red safelight, I take it that development is the same procedure as panchromatic film. I'll have to get ahold of some Adonal and give it a try. I normally use HC-110 dil B or H, but I think I'll give the new developer a whirl and see how I like it. Larry, thanks for the tip on the red filter. I figured you ment not to use one on the camera. Once the weather gets a little better around here (Columbia, Missouri), I'll have to shoot a few sheets to get a feel for the film before I use it at the Civil War reenactment this June in Boonville, Mo. Thanks again guys! You rule! Cheers.</p>

<p>Well your weather has been like mine and I went out so don't wait too long as it is not going to improve any time soon. :)</p>

In a 1954 Kodak ad for Verichrome (ortho version) they recommended a yellow filter (K2).

<p>I've shot a little bit of this stuff and it works fine with D-76, nothing special needed. I wouldn't bother using a filter over the lens either. The film is red blind, and sensitive to blue and green. A yellow filter is a blue blocker, so all you're doing with a yellow filter is effectively reducing the already slow film speed.</p>

<p>You can process the film by inspection under a deep red safelight, the usual light red safelights we use for paper is not safe for this film. Obviously, amber or yellow safelights are completely unsafe.</p>

<p>What an orange pumpkin looks like on Ortho film.<br>

<img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2250/1802413893_864597c4eb_o.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>I've been shooting Rollei and Adox Ortho 25 and Ilford Ortho+ for a while now. For shooting skies, a blue or light green filter will enhance the clouds, otherwise without filters the sky will show as white. Light blue filter will also help smooth out darker complexions. Ortho films are inherantly contrastier than panchromatic films, so shorter development times with D-76 stock (not 1+1)will give better results.</p>