Are you M, A or S shooter

<p>'A' for 90% of my photography (casual/documentary photography is 90% of my photography). <br />Using AEL all the time.</p>

<p>I used to be an almost-always-M photographer, but learned to get consistent results with A, which works much quicker, obviously. That was when I started to use the F3, mid-'90s.</p>

<p>M is used by me under controlled conditions, such as with micro-photography and using flashes.</p>

<p>Depends, using flash almost entirely M, landscapes or architecture A, low light and moving objects, S (will adjust ISO accordingly)</p>

<p>I shoot in A 95% of the time, mostly to get what I perceive to be the best combination of lens sharpness, DOF and ISO.<br>

On some overcast days, during a walkaround, I'll switch to M, since else I find the metering in my D60 is way too aggressive. I always shoot in M when using a tripod. Finally, I only shoot in S when I want to capture some specific movement, but the AF in the D60 doesn't really encourage me to that kind of photography.</p>

<p>When I am not using A because of difficult light I use M. I change my ISO from base only when I need a faster shutter. I use a tripod when ever possible.</p>

<p>Almost always in A mode unless I'm using a lens that doesn't meter with my camera, then it's M of course. I can probably count on one hand the number of times I've used S, and I don't think I've ever used P mode.</p>

<p>@Dieter Schaefer: I won't argue that for a non-professional shooting for a hobby, A, S or even P would yield great results.<br />However, i shoot either in very controlled conditions with flash exposure and have to get consistent results across series of pictures (hence M with customWB) or I shoot in artificial light with action around me (hence, M and custm WB).<br />Anything else would just be guessing, leaving the work that I have to do, to be done by the camera. I can't imagine using A or S with strobes for a whole series where the pictures must have identical appearence, nor can I imagine using A or S in a dimly lit hall with two strobes on wireless transmitters placed across the room and people dancing around.<br />AutoWB and A can provide great results when you're not sure what exactly must a picture look, when you don't have time to adjust settings or when it really does not make a difference. Some of us shoot like that while others want to be more specific.</p>

<p>Almost entirely A, sometimes M - but sometimes has replaced A nowadays.</p>

<p>Normally (I guess 95%) A with auto-ISO keeping the shutter speed fast enough to avoid shake, on my D700. When I used an Eos 300D without (useful) auto-ISO, I was usually in P, with a lot of shifting - but then I didn't have many wide aperture lenses. On film it's usually A or P. If I could reach the ISO button on my D700 with my right hand, I'd shoot more in M with manual ISO.<br />

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I use M and S for specific effects, but for most of my shooting the shutter speed only has to be "fast enough" and the aperture matters far more. I'm intending to get into more (composed) flash photography, so there's probably more "M" in my future.</p>

<p>99,9% A 0,1% M 0,00000000000001% S</p>

<p>A = 50% Control<br>

M = 25% Studio<br>

P = 15% Point & Shoot<br>

S = 10% Speed can matter</p>

<p>Almost exclusively 'S'. I want one automated mode to allow me the freedom to concentrate more on the subject, especially a moving subject. With a variation of DoF in the photo, it won't ruin the Photo as much as if the shutter speed is out and I get motion blur.</p>

<p>98% Manual</p>

<p>About 50:50 A:M, depending on the light conditions. If I have to AF and then recompose, that often requires M in unusual light conditions. For many years I had only M, so it's something with which I'm very familiar.</p>

<p>Almost all of my cameras are manual only but on the rare occasions that I am using one with some automation, I use aperture priority.</p>

<p>For tripod work 100% M; when using flash, 95% M, 5% A; and for hand-held available light work, 90% A, 10% M.</p>

<blockquote><em>"M only. The only way you can get exactly what you want." "With all due respect, that is a ridiculous statement" </em>I believe Nicolaie's statement to be 100% accurate. I don't believe he is questioning whether one is "better" than another. But I suppose that if you are shooting in A, S or P mode, and then 'tweak' the exposure by adjusting the appropriate setting or ISO, you are effectively shooting in 'manual' mode anyway.</blockquote>

<p>Most often it's 'A' to control DoF; then 'M' (e.g. fireworks, some flash applications, long exposures, night shots, whenever I want to ignore the onboard meter), with occasional use of 'S' (BIF, proper blur with airplane propellers, stopping action, etc.). Naturally, I use 'P' at picnics along with the popup flash. :-)</p>

<p>I learned on a old film camera that had no fancy electronics, so I shoot M. The only thing I let the camera choose for me? WB. I usually tweek that on the comp because I don't like what the camera did. So yea, it's 99.98% M for me.</p>

I shoot Street mainly,so A works for me in fast moving shadow/sunlight situations but I am always aware of the aperture/ shutter combination and adjust accordingly the ISO or aperture.For my studio and flash work always M.

<p>I mostly shoot macro, so 98% M</p>

<p>Almost all Manual.<br>

But on most of my cameras with the option, like the Nikon F3, A is really S.</p>

<p>A standing for Automatic, of course. ; )</p>

<p>D300s:<br>

Mostly A for DOF control (50%)<br>

Then S for sporting events (25%)<br>

Then M for fine control of flash/studio (15%)<br>

P for casual shooting (10%)</p>

<p>@Elliot Bernstein:<br />My words exactly. What is the difference between setting M on the camera { guessing adjustments, looking at the picture, remaking adjustments and getting it right} or shooting in A (letting the camera choose exposure time, looking at picture, dialling apropriate exposure compensation and or ISO change and retaking the picture) ??<br />I say none, really. Might be better when there is action, but on the other hand, it won't be consistent in consecutive shots if the framing changes.<br>

I wasn't going to say that one or the other is the righteous path, just which one I prefere better.<br>

Happy shooting to everybody.</p>

Whatever setting I use, and it varies, I monitor the exposure and ISO I am getting to assure it is what I want. For swimming in poorly lit arenas I set a shutter speed at above 1/400 (I really like a 2000th but cannot usually get it indoors) and then set the !SO or aperture using DOF and exposure as a consideration. For serious flash I use manual and drag the shutter. If I have consistent light I will go to manual like a sunny day at a pool or field. If I have a moving target and am shooting multiple frames in varying light I will set a shutter speed to stop action and vary, manually, the ISO and aperture to fit the situation. DOF is always a consideration and I will use aperture priority for non-moving objects to get either deep DOF or Bokeh as needed (I hate that word). I don't think in terms of what I have set on the dial, I think in terms of the shutter speed, ISO and aperture that I want always balancing these three variables in my brain. I have taught beginning digital photography and I spend a lot of time instilling the interaction of these three variables in my students.. I got stuck at the last miinute recently shooting a large group of swimmers into back light after having to run to my bag to grab my camera before the group dispersed.

I did not have time to mount my flash as I had packed up to leave the arena. As I was jumping onto a chair to shoot 1/40 w/IS, f4 @ ISO 3200 jumped into my brain. I set the ISO and that's what I saw in the viewfinder and the exposure was on target. I actually got a highly usable 13x19 print out of it. It is not where the dial is set it is where the photographers brain is set, IMO. I do shoot swimming action in dim light by using shutter speeds at a 400th and above using FE on the flash. It just provides enough flash to kill deadly contrast into backlight while still stopping action. I do not rely on a given setting but rather upon the interaction between the three variables.

<p>At night I am an "M". And yes, I shoot at night a lot. During the day I'm an "A". This is quick to use and very intuitive for me.<br>

Kent in SD</p>