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Shooting Manual


jaydesi

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<p>People are told, here or elsewhere, to shoot in full manual mode, when they don't really (or at all) understand how to control the triangle relationship. Then they come here to the Beginner's Forum and say they're having trouble getting a proper exposure, they don't understand how to shoot in Manual, but they've been told it's the best way, but they're thinking they want to just switch back to full Auto and forget about it. Thus, a common response from the membership here is, "Why shoot in full manual all the time? Use Av or Tv, they're there for a reason," or something similar.</p>

<p>The next piece of advice usually given, to help the person understand that relationship, is to read <em>Understanding Exposure</em>. Ironically, on page 11, which is still part of the Introduction, Mr. Peterson states, "Understanding exposure is not hard at all...[the] only requirement is that you throw away your camera instruction manual <em>after</em> you reference it to learn one thing: how to set the controls to manual." No wonder people are confused!</p>

<p>Of course, if they're reading and applying the information in the book, they will understand how to create a proper exposure using Manual (and at the same time how to apply those lessons to Av and Tv). I'm not so obtuse to realize that Av and Tv will give the person an easier time of things while they learn how to control their camera, and that there are times when one of the given modes will be more suitable than the other. It just struck me as interesting that people are told to stop shooting in Manual and quickly directed to information that contradicts the advice they've just been given.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Always a fun challenge to teach someone the basics. Eventually they seem to go through a eureka moment, and just 'get it'. Until then , though, it seems very painful often, those 3 simple variables feel like a whole lesson in math or something.</p>

<p>Same as DoF...painful to learn, yet so simple once you have it down. Also only 3 variables really. Focal length/aperture/distance to subject.</p>

<p>I have always had the opposite problem, remembering what all the auto modes mean. I always have to look at how the readings are changing in order to know if Tv/Av or whatever your camera calls them are moving the shutter or aperture. I can never remember which is which...and don't use them unless I really have to. And to this day I have no idea what the P thing does...</p>

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<p>It's really easy to learn manual exposure. But don't just take my words on it. People get confused when they just listen to opinions of other people, "some says left, some says right, which one is correct, I'm confused". Just take a simple camera, work it out yourself. That's it.</p>

<p>My first camera was a TLR Yashica 635. That's convenient for either shooting 6x6 or 35mm. It was n't hard to figure out how to use it (manually of course). I had no books to read, not even the user's manual because I bought it used and there was no help from anybody or any website (definitely no Google that time). If you didn't figure it out yet, all you have to do is THINK, that's all. And what I learned with my 635 can be applied nicely to any cameras I have ever known. Maybe because it's easier to learn with a 635 than a Rebel Xs, that I don't know</p>

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<p>Like many (older!) photographers, I started out using manual exposure control because there was no other way. My first 35mm camera was a used rangefinder with no instructions. But film of those days (late 1960's) always came with suggested exposures on little charts in the included instruction sheet. "for bright sun use 1/125 at f/8, cloudy bright 1/125 at f/5.6, overcast, etc. That's all I used for several years until I got a handheld light meter. I really moved up when I got a camera with a built in light meter - what an invention! I did enjoy later automation with shutter priority Canon SLRs, then the choice between shutter and aperture priority in later ones. I've used P mode for many years when the situation warrants it, and only rarely revert to manual when the situation requires it. </p>
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<p>Manual can be good for learning because it is likely to cause you to notice your aperture and shutter speed and, maybe even, ISO. Obviously, you can do the same things in Av or Tv mode, but the difference is how much attention you'll pay to the components of exposure. Being forced to notice the settings should help you learn.<br>

Once you've learned the fundamentals, you can then use other modes for actual shooting. In many situations, Av or Tv is easier to use than manual. For example, landscape work where DOF is very important or sports where stopping camera and subject movement is very important.<br>

I don't see any contradiction.</p>

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<p>some expect a high level of automation.<br>

and cannot take the time or get their minds aroud to thinking other than look, press the button.<br>

I used to haunt camera shops whenb you could handle the used cameras.<br>

I have seen well dress adult men bringing in a camera so the sales person coulkd re-wind and remove the film and put in a new roll.Latwer Kodak made the drop in loading cameras so it was easy.<br>

maybe some are non-technical.<br>

Certain concepts may be beyond some folks. or the motivation to learn new things may be lacking.<br>

I don';t consider myseld a genbuine gear head,. But I have problerms with<br>

some semi-automated cameras,. eithe no automation or full P&S works.,<br>

but some cameras with built-in help confused me until I think about it.</p>

 

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<p>It took years for the pros to catch up with the amateurs in using automatic focusing, automatic exposure, even automatic aperture stop down.<br>

<em>Old</em> Pros and other <em>old</em> guys* learned it one way, and by gum, everyone else should learn it exactly the same way, dagnabit [see Gabby Hayes or <a href="

Johnson</a> on Youtube].</p>

<p>It makes me sad when I see some newbie told to shoot <em>only</em> manual.<br>

The poor children - think of the humanity!</p>

<p>_____<br>

*not gender specific.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>I've always disagreed with the suggestion that people that don't understand exposure should start shooting in manual right away. I've never understood why someone that doesn't understand how aperture, shutter speed and ISO affect exposure should be instructed to start setting them all at the same time. Yes, with digital it's easier to see right away when the exposure is off, but which variable is wrong? What should they change? These are questions that someone that doesn't understand exposure can't answer. Yeah, they can change the settings and get the exposure correct by luck, but they might get unintended side effects like blur and too shallow DOF and not understand that either.</p>

<p>When I explain exposure to someone, I explain each variable separately. Then I tell them to play with each one independently, while letting the camera keep the exposure consistent <em>and paying attention to what changes.</em> Start off with aperture priority. Change the aperture and watch what happens to the shutter speed and depth of field. Switch to shutter priority and watch what happens to the aperture and the amount of motion blur. Next, play with the ISO. Maybe it's just me, but it's much easier to understand multiple variables when you isolate one variable and observe it's effects on the others. That's how I came to understand exposure anyway.</p>

<p>I'm not knocking using manual exposure. I think it's great when you know how to use it. I just think it's something that should be built up to. I don't think that someone that doesn't understand what's going on should try to tackle manual exposure right at the start.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p><em>and paying attention to what changes.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>That's really the key - getting people to pay attention to settings and notice the effects of changing them</p>

<blockquote>

<p>That's how I came to understand exposure anyway.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>We all conflate the familiar with the intuitive :D</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Sorry, didn't mean to start a Manual/Not Manual debate!</p>

</blockquote>

<p>We could debate whether ISO is part of exposure :D</p>

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<p>I've been shooting SLRs since 1974. First was a Minoltsa STR-102 with the needle light meter. You learn pronto about exposure, ISO, and manual focus that way.</p>

<p>Since my recent DSLR days (almost 8 years), it's like this: </p>

<p>M mode - 2% of the time, usually when I am in a tricky flash required situation.<br>

Av mode - 88% of the time (I keep ISO fixed and let Canon 'tell me' the shutter speed, then I can add or subtract EC if needed)<br>

Tv mode - 9% of the time (long lenses prefer fast shutter speeds)<br>

P mode - 1% of the time, sorry to say.</p>

<p>Simple stuff.</p>

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<p>The Two Rules of Shooting in Manual</p>

<p>Rule 1) Always shoot in manual mode unless you would rather shoot in auto.</p>

<p>Rule 2) Remember rule one.</p>

<p>What a bun fight this topic always is. Auto/ Manual. Neither is right or wrong, just a personal choice. I shoot manual all the time, except when I want to use Auto mode (or indeed, any other semi auto setting on the camera). Full auto can be a blessing for some spur of the moment never to be repeated action shots. Manual is the key to that great studio shot you always wanted.</p>

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<p>Setting exposure is not that complicated. You've got two variables, shutter speed and aperture, determining how much light hits your sensor or film. You can let the camera decide both, or pick one and let the camera decide the other, or let the camera tell you what it thinks is right, and let you manually dial that in, or some variation from that guidance. It's not very hard to master.</p>

<p>The main hindrance is not the theory, but learning by rote. Take the time to get your head around the concepts, and you're ok.</p>

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<p>People are told all sorts of nonsense. People need to use common sense and figure out what works best in each situation.</p>

<p>If photographers are "supposed to use manual mode," why to camera companies continue to waste their research and development budgets on P, A, and S modes? Just put all cameras in M all of the time and lower the price a bit.</p>

<p>There are pros who shoot mostly in Aperture Priority mode. Poor schmucks! I guess they never had anyone to tell them to use Manual mode all the time. It's a wonder that they're still in business. ;-)</p>

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<p>I shoot manual all the time, and slide film is my favorite film type. But I'm not sure what the discussion is really about. Seems to me that shooting manually is more about intent. Why do I shoot manually? Because for me, it's the most fun way to make a picture. I would not recommend manual to someone new to photography who wants to increase their percentage of "keepers". In fact, in this day age, I'm not even sure if camera sales relate to an interest in photography at all.</p>

<p>I suspect there are many who do not comprehend my enjoyment of a photographic print. Like those who feel a print always unnecessary.</p>

<p>What is the question in this discussion?</p>

 

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<p>Jay DeSimone wrote: "Then they come here to the Beginner's Forum and say they're having trouble getting a proper exposure..."</p>

<p>Having trouble and asking questions is the first step in learning. As long as someone is happy with his/her results there's no need to change anything, if not, you have to start trying and trying again. Learning does not happen without making mistakes. But rather than giving the advice to shoot manual I would suggest to go to your local library and buy a book about photo technique. Even if it's out of date when it comes to modern technologie, it will cover the mystique about exposure.</p>

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<p>I like shooting full manual and do so 99% of the time. It makes <strong>me </strong>think longer about the exposure I want for the photo. I'm not opposed at all to using other modes, even the oft maligned Auto ISO mode (on my Canon 7D). Use what works best for the shot at hand.</p>

<p>For beginners, I think it's more important to learn shooting technique first. And that can simplify the error rate when exposure variables are tackled.</p>

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<p>I think, it basically comes down to newer photographers having no idea how the exposure meter works. Although in this modern age with histograms, it is my opinion that if you have the time, understanding how to read a histogram may be more important. Sadly, alot of people don't seem to understand the importance of the histogram and how to read it.</p>

<p>Personally, I do not understand what the fascination is with manual exposure, some photographers seem to regard it as the holy grail of exposure. In addition, observing the meter needle in the viewfinder is a little annoying I find it very difficult to shoot in fast moving situations (e.g. events) with constantly changing light in manual mode. I don't see how different the results would be compared to shooting in aperture priority, and understanding the meter, and how much compensation to give it.</p>

<p>Only time I need to use manual mode include<br>

- Studio/strobist stuff<br>

- Indoor events<br>

- Panoramics<br>

- Effects (e.g. light trails)</p>

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In 2010 I held photography classes for beginners. After talking about camera controls, cards and batteries I went into controlling exposure or to be more precise controlling the light entering the camera. First I believe that P, TV, AV and manual are all useful functions on a camera. They can all be used effectively if one knows the fundamentals of exposure so the triangle of shutter speed, aperture, and ISO is important to understand. As an example when shooting swimming I want a constant shutter speed to stop action so I use TV. Once one understands the elements of the triangle it enables all of these functions. Going back in history to tell how I learned my basics using manual was not productive in my classes. Most people, at least among my students, have the presumption that they can point and shoot and the camera will do it all including popping up the internal flash. That is until they took my course in frutration over mediocre pictures. I do not believe in conventional wisdom about shooting in manual all the time. Try that on a moving object in changing light while shooting at five frames per second. What I tried to instill was enough fundamentals in my students so they could progress beyond my classes. Most of them did not know enough to understand the manufacturers instruction books or to comprehend most books on photographic techniques. You could see the epiphany when most of them came to understand the relationships in the triangle. They became capable of then understanding the specialized use of P, TV, AV and manual. Of course the next difficult concept is external flash. That's for another post. I have been told on PN to always use TV, to always use AV, always use manual for sports. I would say having done sports for a paper that if one really understands the basic triangle functions one can be effective no matter where the selector is set. I used to start my participative lectures by saying this is a lens, it has a hole in it where light goes into the camera, you can change the size of this hole, etc. I try not to confuse beginners with terms like apeture until later. Most of my students learned how to apply the fundamentals of exposure in using the four basic settings on the dial and most of them then eschewed using modes like sports, portraits etc. for understanding the relationships in the triangle plus some basic knowledge of using external flash.
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<p>Shooting in manual mode is what taught me how a camera works. Unless you understand how an image is made, then you are at the mercy of what the camera wants to do in a given situation. It all comes down to DoF and how much blur you want. If you haven't made that decision then you can do whatever you like because you are just taking snapshots and any mode will work for that. </p>

<p>Once a person understands aperture / shutter speed / ISO they can do whatever they want with a camera. You can pick up any camera from a View Camera to the latest DSLR and make a picture with it. Then you learn about focal length, but that's just application- it doesn't change how the camera works.</p>

<p>The best thing I picked up when I was trying to learn how to work a camera is the relationship of Light x Time = Exposure. Sure, it's not really a math formula- but the relationship is correct. Aperture is Light. Shutter Speed is Time. Exposure means the picture will come out exposed properly. That's really all there is to working a camera. You can go down on Time if you go up on Light. You can go down on Light if you go up in Time. Once all your exposures come out okay, you being to notice that there are differences based on what the settings were. Blur, depth of field. Now that you can make your picture come out every time you can actually play with those things and get the result you expect.</p>

<p>These things seems so hard at first, but it's so simple once you get the relationship. Shooting in Manual is the quickest way to learn in my opinion. </p>

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<p>Well said, John. I'd guess many, maybe even most, of the responses to beginning photographers suggesting manual mode do so for that reason. They're likely trying to help the tenderfoot in the process of self-education, not pushing M mode as the only way <em>real</em> photographers shoot.</p>
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<p>I'm not a very good photographer, but I can do math. (So I really like John Wilson's formula above.) I had two "aha" moments in learning exposure. The first was when I noticed that one click of the aperture dial, one click of the shutter speed dial, and one increment of ISO are all the same size difference in exposure value. The second came more recently and inspired me to write the following: <a href="http://seejoev.blogspot.com/2007/11/manual-exposure.html">http://seejoev.blogspot.com/2007/11/manual-exposure.html</a>. In summary, the important difference between exposure modes is the way the camera reacts (or doesn't) to changes from one shot to the next.</p>
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<p>A very logical statement that we often hear:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>If photographers are "supposed to use manual mode," why do camera companies continue to waste their research and development budgets on P, A, and S modes?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Based on similar logics, I believe <strong>Nikon says beginners should learn manual focus and exposure</strong>. Only after that they should learn Autofocusing, and then Auto-exposure modes the last.</p>

<p>Of course, that is only a logical reasoning and may or may not be the truth. But If beginners are not supposed to master manual exposure and manual focusing first, why do all Nikon entry DSLR like D3000, D3100, D40x don't have the screw driver? and cannot even have any metering with the good old (and available cheaper) AI lenses? is it too hard for Nikon to make a DSLR that can meter like the Nikon EM (which was Nikon cheapest body ever)?</p>

<p>Only after they learned all manual controls, then they can upgrade to a D90 with screw driver for autofocusing... but wait, even then you still have to do manual exposure with AI lenses. That, to me, is a very clear message from Nikon of how important to master manual exposure first ... or else ... you'll have to pay (for another body, or a more expensive lens)</p>

 

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<p>Shooting in manual mode requires a solid understanding of exposure, f stops, control of tones and how light meters actually work. Unfortunately, with automatic-everything cameras, many new photographers never really learn the joy and advantages of totally controlling their camera, rather than the camera controlling them. </p>

<p>Many of us started with cameras with three controls - shutter speed (very limited), aperture (not very fast), and focus (not very close). We set our exposure according to what the little piece of paper in each box of film told us. Exposure and f stops are not something you can become and expert in by reading a book. It takes jumping out of your comfort zone and actually shooting and understanding the results.</p>

<p>I shoot manual most of the time, but not all the time. I find I get more consistent exposures with manual than by constantly riding the exposure compensation in AV or TV modes. I also spot metering and I'm able to handle tricky lighting with confidence. Automatic exposure is technologically amazing. It will produce a good exposure about 90% of the time. The problem is, it will let you down when you most need it - in strong back lighting (or very dark backgrounds) and high contrast situations. And those are the conditions that generally produce the strongest photographs.</p>

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