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Avus / Skopar performance


zoltan_kovacs7

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<p >All,</p>

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<p >I bought recently a Voigtlander Avus 9x12 camera which has got a proper CLA including PC sync connection (old style Compur shutter).</p>

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<p >The Skopar lens was cleaned but it was not possible to cleanout it totally. Front element’s and rear’s surfaces are absolutely clean, but there are little bubbles in some of the inner elements and more importantly, there is crystallization-like thing or rather old glue-like (I do not know whether there are glued element in it) layer on one of the inner elements’ surface.</p>

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<p >Ok., the lens seemed quite useful and I took tests. Indoor pictures are ok (not tact sharp) but it performs very badly outdoor. Flare resistance is horrible (I knew this) but I can use lens hood. However, I realized that outdoor pictures are tending to be overexpsorured. I think this is caused by that haze – and unfortunately, do not need direct sunlight for this…</p>

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<p >What do you think is there any way to improve lens’ performance or should I throw it away? I have a like new Rada rollfilm holder which works very well, so I would keep it…</p>

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<p >Let me know if you have any idea or similar experience.</p>

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<p >Thanks,</p>

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<p >Zoltan</p>

<p > </p>

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<p>The bubbles are utterly insignificant -- they were normal in high quality optical glass.<br>

The crystallization type thing is a failure of a cemented group in the lens. They were presumably orignally cemented with Canada Balsam, which is basically highly refined pine sap. That group needs to be re-cemented. Not economically practical to pay someone to do it, 9x12 plate cameras are generally not very valuable. It can be done at home, but the trick is getting the two elements properly centered, with their optical centers aligned. (The optical center may or may not be the physical center.)</p>

 

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<p>Zoli,<br>

I've found the 13.5cm Skopar to be a very good performer, even with said separation (Balsam failure).<br>

Untill I sold mine recently, I've had excellent results with the Avus, Rada back, and all sorts of B&W films. I cleaned the lens as best as I could, and the tiny bubbles and specks that remained had no affect on overall image quality.<br>

Yes, a deep hood is highly recommended (slip-on Tiffen series VI ), and at least a K2 yellow filter for B&W film. <br>

I've posted several times with this camera last year... here's one of my favorite rolls :<br>

<a href="../classic-cameras-forum/00USap">http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00USap</a></p>

 

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<p>However, I realized that outdoor pictures are tending to be overexpsorured. I think this is caused by that haze</p>

 

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<p>That's a little hard to imagine. I'd first check the accuracy of the shutter. Worst case scenario is that haze would decrease contrast and cause slight underexposure.</p>

<p>As John stated above, a decent Avus or similar 9x12 can be had for under $100. A good Zeiss Maximar or Kodak Recomar are both compatible with Rada backs and most film holders. <br>

I still have my Maximar, and had great results with a Xenar-equipped ZEH Zecca. The auction site is great resource and one can still find mis-represented plate cameras with good lenses/shutters. </p>

<p>Jó szerencsét!</p>

<p>~GS<br /></p>

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<p>Gabor,<br>

I would keep this Avus really, I love the way of picture taking with this old beauty.<br>

It was totally CLA'd by the (one of the best) best repairmen in Budapest (he worked for Fobesz Bt. - I do not know whether you were born in the sates or in Hungary) and shutter speed are ok for sure.<br>

Simply, I do not want to belive that this camera does not work properly.<br>

There is a very simple reason maybe: I cannot use properly the exotic aperture scale: 6,3 - 12 - 18 - 25- etc. It is very hard to set (to me) the standard readings on it.<br>

Best,</p>

<p>Szia,</p>

<p>Zoli</p>

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