low light issues

<p>Hi all<br>

Can anyone give me further advise please<br>

I was shooting an event last night (as a volunteer of course at this stage)<br>

The lighting was outdoor very dark no light to bounce off, indoor light dark with red flouro lights everywhere<br>

such a challenge it was too me to get non blurred images.<br>

I was shooting with a 5d mark 11 a 24-70 lens I had to push my iso to 6400 F2.8 and still got slow shutter speeds hand held so not too good a night for me. shutter speeds where mostly under 1/40 sec I was also on Manual mode<br>

this is troubling me, slow shutters are sometime good for creative effects though I am wanting sharp non blurred images .<br>

Your advice and patiences is appreciated</p>

<p>Well, there are two basic rules to photography:</p>

<p>1) no light, no picture.<br>

2) If you want it lit, light it.</p>

<p>So, put simply, you need to use some sort of light, probably flash. When using flash, the shutter speed only controls the amount of ambient light. The flash itself will freeze motion provided that your ambient light exposure is at least one stop underexposed.</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/009NM4</p>

<p>By shooting ISO 6400, f/2.8, and slow shutter speeds, you are letting in too much ambient light and the flash won't freeze the motion. That's assuming you were using flash. If not, see point 2.</p>

<p>If you were not using Flash (or did not want to use Flash) then 1/40s @ F/2.8 is 1/80s @ F/2 and 1/160s @ F/1.4 . . . this is one reason why we have Prime Lenses, and there are plenty of fast Prime Lenses to choose from in the 24mm to 70mm Focal Length range.<br>

A monopod is also useful in this situation.</p>

<p>WW</p>

Any reason why you didn't use flash? One doesn't always have to have a surface to bounce off. In a pinch, you can use head-on flash dialled down in power, or better, a bounce card of sorts. I use my Demb Flash Diffuser even outdoors at night (with no ready surfaces to bounde off)

<p>Hi thankyou all<br>

Mark can you please explain what a head on flash is please<br>

will flash increase the shutter speeds TTL?(a little vague with this)<br>

Iam fine with fill flash during the day its the dark evenings and slow shutters that concerns me most.</p>

<p>Search for "Drag The Shutter" threads. Here's an on-going one that is current: <a href="http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00XaVo">http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00XaVo</a></p>

<p>Scroll down to my answer to Devon's questions.</p>

<p>In short, when using flash in near dark conditions, the short flash duration is what freezes the subject matter.</p>

<p>Personally, I'm not a fan of straight-on flash in the hot-shoe when it is relatively dark and there are no bounce surfaces. In those cases I get the flash off the camera using a relatively in-expensive off-camera cord, and hand hold the flash so I can control the direction of the light.</p>

<p>As a side note, I'm in process of designing a hand grip for a bracket manufacturer that specifically allows one to place the speed-light in a secure shoe on an ergonomic hand-grip and control the light direction off-camera. </p>

<p>k--please explain what the event was and what you were trying to accomplish. An example image of what you are talking about would help. I think this is why you haven't gotten a lot of responses. Procedure and what is possible at all, varies, if what you are photographing is, for instance, a wedding ceremony versus an event which includes a lot of action. Most weddings don't have a lot of fast action.</p>

<p>Of course there are basic principles involved here which don't change, but how you use these principles may differ.</p>

<p>FYI: <a href="../photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00XaVJ">http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00XaVJ</a></p>

<p>WW</p>

<p>Thanks, William W. OK, I understand the circumstances. You definitely needed to be using your flash and dragging the shutter, but you need to understand this concept thoroughly. Read Marc's explanation as described above, but also read:</p>

<p><a href="http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/">http://neilvn.com/tangents/flash-photography-techniques/3-dragging-the-shutter/</a>, plus his updated tutorial</p>

<p><a href="009NM4">http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/009NM4</a></p>

<p><a href="00PFGA">http://www.photo.net/wedding-photography-forum/00PFGA</a></p>

<p>Plus, key in "dragging the shutter" on these forums, and you will get a lot of info to read.</p>

<p>Understand the following, though.</p>

<p>1. When there is subject motion, you will have to use faster shutter speeds to freeze motion. There is no way around this. If you don't have light, you won't be able to do so, even with higher ISOs. Research what shutter speeds it takes to stop certain kinds of motion. A subject coming toward you will require less fast shutter speeds than one going across the plane of the camera frame.</p>

<p>2. With hand holding a camera, there is a guideline you should follow or you will get blur from shaking. Example: If you are using a 50mm lens (figured on a full frame camera) you should not use a shutter speed slower than 1/50th. This is only a guideline.</p>

<p>The two factors above need attention, if you aren't using flash. If you are using flash, they can be--not ignored--but, "bent" a bit. Flash introduces other factors, such as quality of light and coverage, but save those topics for after you understand dragging the shutter.</p>

<p>. . . also you will find this article useful:<a href="../learn/club-photography/photographing-bands-musicians/">http://www.photo.net/learn/club-photography/photographing-bands-musicians/</a>?</p>

<p>Also, if you look up the author's postings here at Photo.net and search them, you will find some specific responses to shooting with Flash, in venues using Fog Machines.</p>

<p>WW</p>

 

<p>The difference between a dedicated pro and you is in choosing a camera body. A camera capable of ISO 102,400 is now available. If you are serious about event photography, or wedding photography, and are pursuing a career, you might want to invest, I said INVEST, in a high end pro body. It's not an easy choice to make, but if you find this problem to be a constant one, you need to INVEST in the gear you NEED! Of course, lighting is another way to INVEST in your gear. If you can't invest in a Pro level camera body, then pro level lighting gear is recommended.</p>

<p>Either way, you have to invest in your gear to generate the business, and imagery, you wish to create. I know it's not easy or affordable in the beginning, but it is necessary to do , or at least consider, in order to achieve a goal. A goal that is the success of a photographer in any field.</p>

<p>Nothing is easy in a photography business. A Photography hobby is.</p>

<p>david heavy answer I have been studing photography professionally i own a canon 5 d mark 11 24-+70mm L series lens and 100mm macro lens<br>

I dont believe you have answered my question your response has been rather abrupt<br>

IAM NOT A AMATUER AND RIP PEOPLE OFF what i have been shooting is volunteering with no payment for your information. as iam still learning and everyone has the opportunity to post questions of concern. what where you like when you first started out. i feel very offended by your remarks - are you a people person - i believe you have to be to work with the public<br>

should i wish you all the best</p>

<p>thankyou to all that have responded with respect your advise is appreciated to some</p>

 

<p>you are a bully mr prouty no helpful advice given to my question I am not a hobbiest very offended by your remarks. I certainly would like to see your work could be good I may respect your work<br>

its known that some photographers in the industry can be very secretive i didnt expect that i would get such a stern response to my question anyhow my question was not answered by you at all. i dont know why you bothered, and maybe one day i will be able to buy the more expensive pro gear though i believe what i do with my photography is good and i have a lot of very happy customers that refer me because iam a people person that gets the jobs. enough said</p>

 

<p>A Canon 5D MkII is a capable camera for event work. There is NO requirement for a Professional to have a camera capable of <em>ISO128,000</em>, to produce more than acceptable and also saleable results. If one wants to shoot sans Flash then, with appropriate technique and skill neither, there not a requirement to invest in lighting equipment. However, I do suggest that one knows how to use lighting, both studio and location portable (camera) Flash units for Fill and also as Key. <br>

For example:<br>

From a set of about 40, all sold and shot with a EOS 5D a 50/1.4 and No Flash: <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=964622">http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=964622</a><br>

A few samples from many, all published, most sold, many shot with an EOS 20D: <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=911765">http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=911765</a></p>

<p>I suggest that the OP, when vetting responses on these forums, one doesn't waste time arguing the toss about the intent of opinions - but rather just sort the wheat from the chaff and ask follow up questions if something is not clear. Also having a look at the <em>Posting History</em> and the <em>BioPage</em> and the <em>Work</em> of those giving opinions. Often these will give a good insight of those commentators’ reasons for posting an opinion and some idea of their experience upon which they are basing their opinions.</p>

<p>Sometimes, between folk of experience, there will be differences of opinions; and as we are all human that might ignite - but in mostly all cases the resolution of any fiery exchanges is very swift. There is great mutual respect between the experienced folk here, I have found.</p>

<p>WW</p>