Is it me or is it Canon? - Color Calibration

<p>I have owned two DSLR Canon bodies 20D and 50D. Both seem to have the same oddities in terms of color hue/tint of a reddish nature. It seems more prevalent in some pictures more than others, but I think it is pretty much always there. Coincidently, I look at a lot of pictures, many of which are shot with Nikon DSLRs. To me, these seem to have a goldish/yellow hue or tint to them. I believe I can often tell what kind of camera a photo was shot with, just by looking at the photo.<br>

Do other people notice the same thing? Would camera calibration help to give me a more balanced/natural look to my colors? If so, how does one begin this process?<br>

Alternatively, I just purchased Lightroom3 and I see that one can adjust for basic camera calibration presets for post processing. I haven't tried this yet. Is this an effective approach; or is it something that as a Canon user, I should just get used to? </p>

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<p>Start with the basics. What hardware are you using to calibrate the displays you're using to view these images?</p>

<p>I agree with Matt--it would help if you provide more information. Have you been shooting JPG? If RAW, have you been using DPP (which will impose your picture style as a default)? Which picture style are you using? Are you viewing your images on a monitor or a printer? If the former, has it been calibrated? If the latter, which printer? If you are printing, have you made sure that you are not using both printer-based and software-based color controls?</p>

<p>I have found that the Adobe Standard profile is superior (to my tastes) to the Canon Standard picture style as a starting point for editing most RAW images. I almost always leave lightroom set to that.</p>

<p>And no, you don't have to get used to any color cast. Everything is modifiable, if you are shooting RAW.</p>

Judging colors on a monitor is not a very scientific way indeed. May monitors are not well calibrated and they all show

some color shifting. Printing on the other hand is not a scientific way eather. I have used the 350d, the 1000d, the 7d,

the 5d and the 5dmk2 and they all were fine . I think you should start calibrating your monitor and then make prints to

compare. The prints will be darker, it's a ok way to tell whether your monitor is displaying colors accurately or not. If

you need to have a more scientific approach then you need a hardware to do that. But mostly it's not your canon, but

your monitor. Good luck

<p>It is not you nor your monitor, It is Canon. Canon has always produce great reds, While Nikon always have great yellows and greens color rendition. And Sony Blues.</p>

<p>Different camera makers have different bias towards colors, And canon's happen to be in the color red. But you can change the way canon dslr renders color, You can use the WB/shift. Shift it to B2 and experiment with adding either G1 or M1, Depending on your taste.</p>

<p>Btw, I made a thread awhile ago about encouraging camera users to adjust the camera setting regarding color rendition of the camera, Not just merely being contented with the default color setting. Fortunately , Canon has made it possible , By providing WB/shift in addition to the usual color adjustment parameters.</p>

<p>But if you shoot raw or post process every image , This don't matter much, But it is nice that the color of you jpegs are closer to your liking.</p>

<p>Auto WB or a custom setting..? Most DSLRs display a pronounced shift in AWB mode and Canon is no exception. As for reds, only a few digital cameras in existence accurately handle the red channel which clips early on most cameras (including 5D2, D700) and is often devoid of details if only slightly overexposed (esp. if one shots in-camera JPEG.)<br>

Also, is your chain (monitor, printer) calibrated? Have you ever tried to shoot a color checker card under controlled conditions (custom WB, accurate exposure) and actually check the RGB values of the offending (according to you) colors..?</p>

<p>Provided that your output device (monitor or printer+paper combo) is calibrated, you have two options: 1) tweak colors in post processing to your liking; or 2) get x-rite colorchecker and build custom DNG profile for your shooting conditions (building dual profile relieves you from making profiles every time light changes). I used first option for a long time until I got tired, so moved to option 2. Although results are not dead-on-spot they're close enough to my liking.</p>

<p>I generally shoot with Canon's WB settings for daylight, shade, etc. I occassionaly rely on AWB, but not often. I do not use a custom settings, though I did play with them a long time ago, when I first got the camera. I shoot in several picture styles depending on my mood at the time. Most often I use Standard, but will also use Landscape, Portrait, Neutral and Faithful. (I haven't quite figured out which one I should be shooting in, but I try and match them to situation (Landscape, & Portrait), and occassionally experiment. I have not set or used the custom styles. (Is there a correct Style, or just what works for you?) <br>

I generally shoot in RAW. When shooting bursts, I will switch over to Jpeg. I have never used DPP. My primary tools for post-processing have been Picasa3.6 and Photoshop CS3. However, about a month ago I upgraded to Lightroom3, and CS5, and am beginning to learn and incorporate them into my post processing protocol. <br>

My monitor and printer have both been calibrated (though I am sure I don't do it frequently enough - maybe every 6 months). I use Spyder 3Pro to do the monitor calibration. I never shot a color checker card. I am using a Canon Pro9000 printer, which I calibrated as per the manual instructions when I first got it about a year ago. It took some time, and practice, but my prints now come fairly close to what I see on my screen. <br>

I believe I see this subtle color cast, starting with the camera LCD on monitor display post processing and printing. You might think I am crazy that I can see much of anything on a 3" LCD, but what I do see looks similar enough to all the following stages. <br>

Mars, I like what you have to say, it reinforces my suspicions and at least you don't think I'm completely crazy. What I am taking from this discussion, is I should get back to basics, and recheck each step of the color processing process and later experiment with customizing profiles to make minor adjustments. </p>

<p>If you shoot RAW there is no need really to use anything other than AWB, you are making work for yourself. Unless, of course, you need to custom WB which most people do not need to do.</p>

 

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<p>It is not you nor your monitor, It is Canon. Canon has always produce great reds, While Nikon always have great yellows and greens color rendition. And Sony Blues. </p>

</blockquote>

<p>I never understand this kind of comment. What is a "great" red? More accurate - more saturated? If you shoot RAW you can make any color balance/hue you like. You can use a custom filter in Lightroom to instantly adjust all your images to your liking. Of course you need a color balanced workflow, but you have that so you just have to trust your eyes.</p>



<p>Yes you can adjust to any color style you like on raw. If you shoot raw, But for some, It is a big "IF". That's what you must understand.</p>

<p>I use a Canon 5D mark II and shoot in picture style "faithful" which does not pump up the saturation but gives an as close to what you see colors as possible. You can use Picture Stye Editior to create your own in camera profiles which mean you can make your Canon look like a Nikon or Sony if you wish.</p>