26 C. degrees/ 80 F

<p>I can't get my sink water to be any lower temperature than 26 celcus or 80F.</p>

<

p>Is it worth it to even try to process at such temperature. I use HC-110, although I might switch to D-76.</p>

<p

>Also,while I am it, I noticed yesterday that my fixer has developed some weird smell and now it has some re

sidue in the bottle. It hasn't expired yet, but could it be that temperature in my kitchen is too hot so it was spoiled ?</

p>

<p

> </p>

<p

>thanks. </p>��

<p>In Singapore my tap water is 29 celsius... I develop most of my B&W at 25 degrees - just adjust the times and you'll be fine. I only take it cooler if the time is less than 5 minutes at 25. I frequently see crud in the fixer before expiry as well but Im sure its not temperature related</p>

<p>Ice is your friend. Try using a water bath to lower the developing chemicals. Washing in warmer water is ok</p>

<p>Kodak lists development times for Tri-X as follows. You could try D-76 at 1:1 and extrapolate from the below times and try some tests.<br>

HC-110 and other developers have development times that are getting short for uniform results, according to Kodak.</p>

<div></div>

<p>D-76 is not a good choice for high temperature processing, as it will produce excessive fog. HC110 is a better option. There are many tropical formulas for developers that include hardeners to limit the swelling of the emulsion. Modern films are very hard, and tolerate high processing temperatures very well. A catechol-only developer like Hypercat would be a very good choice. </p>

<p>Cooling your processing solutions, including wash water is another option, though much less convenient, in my opinion. </p>

<p>I keep some de-mineralized water jugs full of tap water around. This keeps the regular water "room temp", as my place is air-cond. This is what I use for the presoak and washing water.</p>

<p>For much of the year here we have similar air and water temperatures. My standard processing time during that period is 81 degrees F. I no longer try to fight the heat; instead I've settled on film/developer combinations that provide sufficiently long times in that situation. Two good ones are Ilford HP5 Plus in Perceptol 1:1 and FP4 Plus in Perceptol 1:1.<br>

Another imminent option is ADOX PAN 400 in Rodinal 1+50. See this thread for details:<br>

http://www.apug.org/forums/forum249/78063-apx-400-a.html#post1052775</p>

<p>I should settle down on 24C for development and use HC-110. With any modern B&W film no problem and no additional process (hardener) need.<br>

Dilution B (1+31) or double your time when using H (1+63) in case you're running into short times (< 5:00 min.)<br>

Take notice of the minimum of 6ml for each film (135-36 / 120 roll film)<br>

<a href="http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/">http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/</a><br>

As already mentioned HC-110 gives less base fog at higher temperatures.<br>

Alternative you can use 24C film developers like CG512/RLS an ultra fine grain developer by Udo Raffay. Even better then Perceptol, same fine grain but more sharpness.<br>

BTW Rodinal is not suitable at all at higher temperatures.</p>

<p> </p>

<blockquote>

<p>BTW Rodinal is not suitable at all at higher temperatures.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Why not? Note that I specifically mentioned Rodinal 1+50 with ADOX PAN 400, nee APX 400.</p>

<p>Rodinal, para-Amino Phenol is a semi-compensating surface developer. It works in the best way on classical cubical slow- and medium speed films. It gives high sharpness and acutance but is not a fine grain developer at all. To control the grain you have to develop under 20C and with minimum agitation. High temperatures and a lot of agitation will generate a lot of grain. APX 400 is together with Fomapan 400 the grainiest iso 400 films on the market. Further Rodinal - R09 one shot, gives some speed loss. Normally 1/3F stop.</p>

<p>In summer time here the tap water can get up to 27 to 30 C , all I do when I mix up a batch is only make around 95% and the rest I will use ice cubes to adjust the temp down to 21 .<br>

I have never really got the best results with developing at higher temperatures .</p>

<p>Re. your fixer. It may be that the smell is due to the precipitation of sulphur. It once happened to me with a bottle of old fixer after a particularly warm spell of weather. Rather than the usual sharp smell of fixer, it took on a sulphurous smell. Is the deposit a very pale yellow? (So pale it may not be obvious that it's yellow.)</p>

<p>Thank you all. I did develop today in 80F, haven't scanned them yet, but I can't see anything wrong with the negatives yet. I guess i will do that for now and probably try to have the AC on for a while and the bottles out when i want to develop.</p>

<p>regarding the fixer, yes, exactly Chris. So it's sulphur ha. By the way how long can I keep the prepared /already used stop bath and the fixer in a bottle before throwing them ? </p>

<p> </p>

<p>The precipation of Sulphur has the biggest change on the acid type fixer. It will be Yellow too. It also depends on the temperature.<br>

Normally a few months it should be good. However in Citric Acid stop there can be a grow of bacteria. So you have to watch out for this too. It also depends on the temperature.</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Rodinal...works in the best way on classical cubical slow- and medium speed films. It...is not a fine grain developer at all. To control the grain you have to develop under 20C and with minimum agitation. High temperatures and a lot of agitation will generate a lot of grain. APX 400 is...the grainiest iso 400 films on the market. Further Rodinal...one shot, gives some speed loss. Normally 1/3F stop.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Rodinal is not a fine grain developer. However, the granularity resulting from developing a given film, regardless of emulsion design, in Rodinal should not vary depending on temperature as long as the combinations of time, temperature and agitation are always adjusted to result in the same gamma (contrast).</p>

<p>In this post</p>

<p>http://www.apug.org/forums/forum249/78063-apx-400-a.html#post1052754</p>

<p>ADOX states that ADOX PAN 400 will, unlike APX 400, achieve box speed in Rodinal and will have finer grain than APX 400.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Nobody will be able to replicate APX 400, APX 100 or APX 25 anymore. When an original film production line is broken it's finished. You can only hope to approach some characteristics.<br>

Why do you think Foma has stopped the production of Fomapan T200 film? They can not replicate with a (small) different ingredient the same film.<br>

Why do you think Rollei-Maco can not exactly replicate their PO100C film? Because it was made by Efke machinery and now by Gevaert in Belgium. Rollei Retro 100 TONAL is almost the same as PO100C but if you put both films under the densitometer there are some differences.<br>

Same for Rodinal: It's impossible to get the same results for Rodinal on 30C. Even when having the same density Rodinal on higher temperatures has more grain. It's part of the para-Amino Phenol.</p>