Some questions for the old-timers.

<p>Hi Forum,<br>

I'm looking to purchase a used, manual focus SLR. I'm a novice when it comes to Nikon and have been trawling through the web trying to find information about it's manual focus SLRS and I'm now very confused. I have a list of requirements and was hoping some forum members might be able to suggest a suitable Nikon body that matches up.<br>

I like shooting candid potraits and also low light, plus the occasional landscape. I like to take photos in social situations, evenings out and the like, so smaller and lighter is better. Motor drive compatibility and program modes aren't relevant to my needs.<br>

ok, here's the list of requirements:-</p>

<p>Bright viewfinder<br>

Spot metering<br>

Needle type meter indicator<br>

Mirror lock-up (fast hand-held operation, not on timer)<br>

If it has TTL flash metering and exposure compensation that's great.<br>

Cheap used prices- $250-$300 (that's £200 in Klingon money)</p>

<p>So do anyone know of a Nikon body that fits the bill?<br>

Cheers, Tim</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I'm not old - but I will do my best. I went for the F3 as I had similar requirements as yourself. It has TTL flash (up to 1/90th), MLU, tight centre weighted (not spot) metering, bright finder, is good value and also good to use. It does not have a needle display - but an LCD - which is actually OK once you get used to it. I think that is the nearest camera there is. The FM3a is another contender but MLU is on the timer.</p>

<p>Good luck, Ian</p>

<p>I too got a F3HP because of its capabilities and flexibility. If you would like a comprehensive set of commentaries on the Nikon line, forgetting KR for a moment, check out www.mir.com</p>

<p>If you drop the "needle type meter indicator", then you have the F4 (F5 is not under $300).</p>

<p>If you insist on the needle (which you should not at all), the there is none</p>

<p>Sorry John, the F4 is a tank, also auto-focus. I'm after a fully manual Nikon- not too heavy, not too complicated.</p>

<p>There is no manual focus Nikon body that matches all your requirements - so which ones are you willing to drop? Spot metering came only with the AF bodies and MLU was only available for the single-digit pro series. Needle metering indicator was available in the FE/FE2/FM3A and EM/FG20 - of which only the FE2 and FM3A have TTL flash metering (but I doubt you will find a FM3A within your budget requirement). The F3 comes with a 80/20 center-weighted metering - but that isn't spot. The flash sync speed is slow at 1/80s (not even the 1/90s Ian mentioned) and I wouldn't call the camera light or small.<br /> Forgot one oldie - Nikon EL2 which has a needle metering indicator and offers MLU.</p>

<p>The F4, F5, F100 are all fully manual. Fully manual is not the same as ONLY manual. But the point is not about terminology here, now I see that you want a camera that is ONLY manual.</p>

<p>Sorry, Tim, if the camera is only manual, then exposure compensation is non-sense (i.e it doesn't have any meaning). TTL flash is also a (complicate) automatic feature which is contradictory to the ONLY manual condition. The F3 is not only manual either. I think you are asking for a Klingon camera</p>

<p>It sounds like you want an Olympus OM4 Ti but the lenses aren't quite as good. Or the Pentax ME / ME Super. Lenses are better. These guys are small and light (the ME Super is a lovely size; I've never handled an OM...) and they do much of what you're asking (OM4 has spot metering; not sure of the ME). Among the Nikons the closest to what you want IMO (no MLU nor spot metering) is the FM2n which is a great camera. (I've been using one all week on my vacation: left the digitals at home.) Look for later serial numbers. The FE2 is the equivalent with auto exposure setting and electronics. The earlier FM might have a needle: I seem to remember one.</p>

<p>Tim, you'll have to do some prioritizing and compromise. Dieter presents a nice synopsis. Several of your criteria/shooting interests are in opposition. Best to have a big, bright v'finder in low-light, which means a single digit pro body, which are neither small nor light compared to the FE/FM family of bodies. An illuminated meter is critical in real low-light as opposed to a needle you may not be able to see. MLU = pro only. The road is paved with good intentions but you now see how quickly and easily bodies begin to arrive on the doorstep. Consider a second body X months from now that has the remaining functions/features not found in the body you are about to purchase. Having two different types of film, loaded and at the ready, is a small but significant luxury.</p>

<p>Since the OP said that the TTL and meter compensation would be nice, but not nessisary, that leaves the following list:</p>

<p>Bright viewfinder<br /> Spot metering<br /> Needle type meter indicator<br /> Mirror lock-up (fast hand-held operation, not on timer)</p>

<p>If mirror lock up was ONLY on the single digit bodies, he's probably looking at an F3 or F4. The rest are too expensive. The F4 has a LCD meter but it mimics the match needle. If you stay with the F4 standard with no extra battery holder it's not TOO heavy. It does have TTL and exposure compensation to boot. Fits his price range too. It's just not a light weight body.</p>

 

Don't dismiss the F4 so quickly. Turn off the AF and it works like a

manual focus SLR - I've heard it referred to as "the best manual

focus SLR Nikon ever built". After that, it has spot, matrix and CW

metering, low light metering with a well-lit and comprehensive

display, true MLU. Use a MB-20 4xAA grip and it's a large but not

crazy large SLR

<p>Stick with the F3 with the HP (high eyepoint) finder.</p>

<p>No way do you need/want an F4. I don't like them; didn't buy them when they replaced the F3.</p>

<p>I believe (no offense intended) that the F4 recommendations are coming from folks who haven't used the earlier models.</p>

<p>Also consider an F2 if you can find one in nice condition. The meter may be a problem, so check it out thoroughly.</p>

<p>If you need a spot meter, buy one. I don't know of any camera that does a proper job in that regard.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

<p>I'd actually recommend the F100 over the F4, by far. You can turn off the AF on that body too, and it has spot metering and a bright viewfinder. I love the F3HP, but it doesn't have spot metering, though its metering is highly concentrated in the center circle, and is extremely accurate. In fact, the Kyoritsu engineers, who built highly accurate SLR shutter testers, used a Nikon F3 to calibrate the meter of the tester. That's how accurate the meter in the F3 is.</p>

Leigh-no offense taken, but just because other people's opinions differ from yours, don't presume that they're speaking

out of ignorance. I suggested the F4 because the OP wanted spot metering and to use the camera in low light

situations. I have used all of the "F's" from the F to the F4, so I know as well as you do how crappy the F3's

viewfinder display is in low light. The F4 display is excellent in any light, it has spot metering, and the viewfinder is

almost as good as that of the F3HP. The HP is my all time favorite SLR, but, great as it is, it simply isn't as good a fit

with the OP's wish list as the F4.

<p>Hi David,</p>

<p>If everyone held the same views, there would be no fora. ;-)</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

 

<p>Though it is missing some of the features you list, I can recommend the FG. I do not think it generally gets much love from Nikon enthusiasts but it is a simple MF camera that does what I want it to and nothing more. It is a nice camera. Viewfinder is amazing compared to my DX DSLRs. Cost me $15 at a flea market with a 50 1.8 and 28 2.8. I am not sure what the bay price is.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I can recommend the FG. I do not think it generally gets much love from Nikon enthusiasts...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I love the FG. ;-) I had two of them over the years, and took lots of great pix with them. </p>

<p>Carried them overseas because they were light and easily transported. This was PT (pre-TSA).</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

 

<p>Personaly I would go with an FM2. Not exacly what you asked for but its small and light, very reliable, the viewfinder is pretty good and the led meter can be seen in darkness. It's an all manual mechanical camera that can be had quite cheeply these. If not the FM2 then the FE2 as it has apeture priority and manual mode with match needle metering.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>No way do you need/want an F4. I don't like them; didn't buy them when they replaced the F3.<br>

I believe (no offense intended) that the F4 recommendations are coming from folks who haven't used the earlier models.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Leigh, you are wrong here (no offense taken). I used the F3HP before getting an F4e and I like this F4 a lot more than the F3 that I had to get an F4s also. Then I thought maybe an F5 would even be better, So I got an F5 but I don't like the F5 much because of its user interface. And I was the one suggesting the F4 first.</p>

<p>Some one close to me also hates the F4 so much that he's never got one. I believe if he has a little more open minded and tried using an F4 a little, he may fall in love with it. Unfortunately, when you don't have an open mind, you just don't. He likes the F5 though. I find out that he doesn't like the look of the F4 but that is not the real reason</p>

<p>So Leigh, if you don't mind, please explain why you hate the F4 so much (just so I can understand the other guy) that you would suggest an FG and easily claimed that "No way Tim wants an F4". I would't be so sure to say that to anyone about any camera or almost anything</p>

<blockquote>

<p>the F4 is a tank, also auto-focus. I'm after a fully manual Nikon- not too heavy, not too complicated.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>If you feel that the F4 is too complicate, you can un-complicate it as followed:<br>

- Switch to MF and forget about this switch<br>

- Switch to Spot metering and forget about this switch<br>

- Keep the mode switch at M or A only (A only because you want exposure compensation)</p>

<p>There and you have exactly what the OP wants, except for the needle thing (Anybody here afraid of needles?)</p>

<p>Oh, and the F4 has the best exposure compensation dial on earth (well you may like it on the OM-2 also). The size and weight and a special shutter mechanism design of the F4 help a lot to reduce shaking. It is the best AS (anti-shaking) system in a 35mm body</p>

<p>Forget about spotmetering and you will greatly expand the possibilities. Forget about those big "pro" bodies that were mostly sold to well-heeled poorly-informed amateurs who value the camera they own more than the pictures they make, and this gets you into the real greats: any of the FM series, or the earlier Nikkormats.</p>

<p>You want a Canon FTb. Check it out. </p>

<p>I'm really old, my first used Nikon was an F.<br>

If you really have to have the needle, the FE2. But Why?<br>

The viewfinder goes to the F3.<br>

It's hard to go with old equiptment that you have no history of it usage.<br>

I would recomend to have a look at the F100 for weight and the F5 as fitting the bill.<br>

I have owned and used the above and sold them all but the FE2 and the F100.</p>

<p>try:<br>

f2<br>

fm<br>

fe<br>

fm2[n]<br>

see which you prefer. there aren't many needle-style, spot-metered cameras out there. if any.</p>

<p>#1.. Get an F3 and be happy. It might be the finest manual focus SLR ever made. best viewfinder I've ever used. (No spot meter though)</p>

<p>#2.. Get a nice F100 for $200, put it in all manual and pretend. It's a fine camera that does have a spot meter and can meter with the old lenses as well.</p>

<p>#3..Switch brands and get an Olympus OM4t. If the F3 is not the best SLR ever made then the OM4t might be. Has a spot meter and don't listen to those who say the lenses are lesser. The very affordable 28 2.8, 50 1.8 and 100 2.8 are all very sharp.</p>

<p>#4 Get a nice F100 for $200 and be happy. :0</p>

<p> </p>