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Affordable shift camera for architecture


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<p>Hello,<br>

I am looking for a medium format (film) outfit for architecture. Thus I need it to have both up and down shift. Now, I don't have the money for Alpa, so unfortunately I can't go down that road. I have been looking at used Silvestri outfits, but they are still a bit pricey. Also, once in a blue moon, a Corfield Wide camera pops up, but I don't know anything about that system. Any suggestions?</p>

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<p>Hasselblad Flexbody cameras take standard C/CF lenses, and go for about $3000 used. Hasselblad Arcbody cameras take special Schneider lenses, and start at about $3500 used. You can find Hasselblad PC/Mutars for about $1500 or less (which take a 40mm lens @$2250 and up).</p>

<p>You can get a 4x5 view camera for under $500 (a Sinar P for under $1000). A 75 or 90 mm lens will cost about $600. Roll film backs start at about $250 (Linhoff "Universal" for about $600). With roll film, you would need a much shorter lens for architecture, say 35-45 mm, a recessed front board and bag bellows.</p>

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<p>I shoot landscape more than architecture but the Fuji GX680 allows a lot of movement with all lenses except the 50mm. I suspect that this may not be wide enough for you as the first lens with full movement is the 65mm which is effectively a 30mm equivalent (on a 35mm body). If the GX680 is of interest they are reasonably priced used as there is no realistic (one does exist) digital upgrade. The lenses and quality of the GX680 is as good as it gets (remember Fuji makes the H series Blad lenses) producing big 6x8 negatives. You can also look at the Rollei 66 and 6000 series. They made lenses as wide as 30mm and I know the bellows offers tilt - some may also have shift (the one I used did not).</p>
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<p>For starters, you could do a Google Images search on : <strong>6x9 Linhof</strong> as I just did. Then vary the search to, say: <strong>6x9 view camera</strong> .. the mind boggles.<br>

Forgetting the expense of mechanical shift, a rectangular format camera 6x7 up to 6x9, with a good rectilinear lens, held vertically, will provide all the 'shift' you need, buy cropping the selected area. Even a Hasselblad SWC will provide sufficient coverage for all but the tightest situations. Then crop out the unwanted foreground or whatever. A more affordable alternative could be the Fuji GW690. Just a thought.<br>

If you plan to do a lot of this work, I'd go back to the Linhof idea. I did, and now have a Super Technika III 4x5, and will pick up 6x9 in Europe when I'm ready to buy. An absolute gem of a camera - very convenient to carry and set up. Specify the search to <strong>6x9 Technika. </strong><strong><br /></strong><br>

.. have fun ;-)<strong><br /></strong></p>

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<p>One option is the Hasselblad PC-Mutar. There are two on the bay at present.</p>

<p>This device is a vertical shift adapter coupled with a 1.4x teleconverter. It works with lenses up to 80mm, but it's really designed for the 40mm. Longer lenses will vignette.</p>

<p>While it's not an ideal solution, it does allow some perspective control with the Hasselblad V-system cameras.</p>

<p>I have one, and it performs as advertised.</p>

<p>- Leigh</p>

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<p>A Corfield is a pretty dated camera. For architectural work, you've GOT to have suitable movements. I'd go with the following for under $1k:</p>

<p>Toyo 45F: $300<br /> 65mm f/8 Super Angulon: $300 or a f/6.8 for about $200, but it's not as good of lens.<br /> 6x7 or 6x9 roll film back: $300 (or less)</p>

<p>This would give you the proper tilt and shift that you need. The 2x3 view cameras are outrageously expensive (Alpa, Arca Swiss, Sinar, etc.). BTW, the Silvestri is a nice camera, but you need the higher end flex body if you want tilt. The base model only has limited shift.</p>

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<p>I use a Cambo 23SF. Now discontinued, they are a well built sturdy camera. You will need a 65mmm or 47mm lens for a wonderful 6x9 negative.</p>

<p>Just so you know, the 4x5 version isn't that much bigger thus they are more popular than the 23SF. Also the 23SF will not take sheet film (I had a back made to use 2.25 x 3.25 sheet film).</p>

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<p>I shoot primarily architecture on medium format film. I use a 4x5 monorail camera with Toyo and Horseman 6x7 backs. I did consider getting a MF view camera, but the versatility I get from being able to shoot both MF and 4x5 is worth the hassle. My opinion only of course. There are not that many lenses wide enough to shoot MF well, but my bottom end is the 55mm Rodenstock Grandagon, which is roughly equivelant to a 25-28mm lens on 35mm terms.<br>

It seems you've done your homework the MF offerings, so you probably know what you're doing, but I think a 4x5 rail camera should be considered.<br>

"How to Photograph Buildings and Interiors" by Gerry Kopelow has a great survey of all camera options for architecture, including the Fuji 680 and the Linfof 6x9. He points out the pros and cons of each option. I'd suggest getting a copy. $30 well spent.</p>

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<p>In anything like this the Fuji GX680III gets my vote, as digital has become more popular these, as all film cameras have suffered pricewise, the Fuji no longer being in production, please take a long look at the lenses available together with all the other acessories.</p>

<p>Cheers,</p>

<p>Adrian.</p>

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<p>Christian, look at the old Cambo Wide or newer Cambo Wide DS with a roll film back for 6x7, 6x9 or 6x12. Compact, sturdy, fast to operate, perfect alignment of lens to film plane, reflex viewing of ground glass if desired or simple scale focusing using helicoid-mounted lenses. </p>
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<p>I have an ulterior motive, I guess, but I have to mention the Horseman 980 with a 6x7 rollfilm back that I currently have for sale. It is a Baby Linhof clone with extensive movements. I suggest you google it and see what you think. If you are interested, shoot me a query. Glad to discuss it, deal or no deal.</p>
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Leigh suggests the Hasselblad PC Mutar, and if you already own a Hasselblad, and are lucky to find a good condition one at a reasonable price, ok. However, I remember when they were first released and was left puzzled why they should invest in the development of a shift accessory that swings in an arc, in stead of vertical up and down. The image used on the first promotional brochure clearly shows an off-axis, out of whack distortion. For occasional work, it may well suffice for less than critical assignments, but even then, you first you need a Hasselblad, then spend an inordinate amount on the PC Mutar. You get more for your money with a good, used technical camera such as all the others mentioned.

 

For such a configuration, ie medium format camera, with a real shift lens, I would seriously consider a <a href="http://www.hartblei.com/lenses/general_info.htm">Hartblei Tilt-shift lens</a>, and in fact will do so when possible.

<p> </p><div>00X8fV-272359584.jpg.d69fbc6d32d46c7ab81328ea0200115d.jpg</div>

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