EOS digital to PB6 Bellows question

<p>Hi,<br>

I was wondering if someone could advise me on a specific problem.<br>

I have a Nikon PB6 bellows (and macro paraphernalia, including the Nikkor 60mm macro). It would be a shame to lose its use in my moving to the Canon 5D II.<br>

All is not lost? I think the 5D II body can be attached?<br>

1. I would be grateful if someone could point me to where I could get a convertor to the Nikon mount?<br>

2. Will the convertor retain the TTL functions?<br>

3. Finally, I use a double release cable called the AR-10, for when I was using the bellows with a F-100. (to stop the lens down to the preselected aperture at the moment of exposure). What would I do in the case of using the 5DII with the PB6? Will I need to manually set the aperture on the lens? Is there any way of getting any degree of automation in this proposed system?<br>

4. What similar (or dissimilar) shutter/lens cable options do I have in this case?<br>

Thanks a lot, in advance,</p>

<p>Milan</p>

<p>1. "Point me to where I could get a converter to the Nikon mount?"</p>

<p>Ebay is a good source. The few I got from various sellers all have no issues.</p>

<p><br />" 2. Will the converter retain the TTL functions?"</p>

<p>Yes. Do keep in mind that there are no distant info. Focal length of lens and aperture setting send to the camera metering circuit are incorrect. The camera default to center weight metering. If you use a flash, wrong aperture info = to wrong exposure. Of-course, since the body can't control aperture, no Shutter priority or P mode.</p>

<p><br />3. "Finally, I use a double release cable called the AR-10, for when I was using the bellows with a F-100. (to stop the lens down to the preselected aperture at the moment of exposure). What would I do in the case of using the 5DII with the PB6? Will I need to manually set the aperture on the lens? Is there any way of getting any degree of automation in this proposed system?"</p>

<p>In a Nikon system, you can use a MC-25 to convert AR-10 to a newer body such as D300s. For a Nikon-Canon hybrid, you will have to make your own cable like that. The Canon 3 pins cable release works the same ways as the Nikon 2 pins system in AR-10 (ground is the 3rd wire, 2 wire shorts turns on meter, 3 wires all shorted together release shutters). You just need to get a beeper to beep out the signals. I did one (using a converted cheap Canon cable release from ebay), it is not that hard.</p>

<p><br />"4. What similar (or dissimilar) shutter/lens cable options do I have in this case?"</p>

<p>See above</p>

<p>Hey thanks Tommy!<br>

Any seller you could point me to, besides Ebay would be useful.<br>

I do use the MC-25, with the AR-10 for my F-100, so I see what you mean… get a Canon 3-pin, and splice it with a MC-25 to make a hybrid. (I would rather do this on a MC-25, rather than directly onto the AR-10 so that I can preserve the AR-10).<br>

So the question is, if there is no lens info going to the body, then why use a double cable at all? Am I missing something here? Having got an external meter reading (however I manage that), I should just manually stop down the lens to the correct aperture, and shoot in M mode?<br>

Your inputs are greatly appreciated!<br>

Milan</p>

<p>Hey thanks Tommy!<br>

Any seller you could point me to, besides Ebay would be useful.<br>

I do use the MC-25, with the AR-10 for my F-100, so I see what you mean… get a Canon 3-pin, and splice it with a MC-25 to make a hybrid. (I would rather do this on a MC-25, rather than directly onto the AR-10 so that I can preserve the AR-10).<br>

So the question is, if there is no lens info going to the body, then why use a double cable at all? Am I missing something here? Having got an external meter reading (however I manage that), I should just manually stop down the lens to the correct aperture, and shoot in M mode?<br>

Your inputs are greatly appreciated!<br>

Milan</p>

<p>If you have a Nikon macro lens, the PB6 and a Canon EOS body then you need a Nikon BR6 between the lens and the bellows to close the aperture of the Nikon lens with a remote cable.<br>

You need a double wire cable, one end goes to the BR6 and the other one goes to a Canon device that converts the push cable to the 3 pin T3 conector, it is called "Remote Switch Adapter T3".<br>

Then you need another Canon device to convert from old 3 pin to today N conector, it is called "RA-N3"<br>

Hope I managed to explain it<br>

Regards<br>

Jorge</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Check <a href="http://www.fotodiox.com">www.fotodiox.com</a> for some adpaters. They have a few types of Nikon to EOS adapters.</p>

<p>" if there is no lens info going to the body, then why use a double cable at all?"</p>

<p>Your call. To me, one step focus plus shutter release sometime cause less system movement and minimize mistakes . It also really help with subjects that moves. Yes, it will be less helpfull if one use mirror lock up, BTW: Some focus chip can be programable. This mean you can program the shooting lens info the adapter before hand. Never try that, seems too much trouble to me. </p>

<p>The T3 method above also work if you didn't already have an AR-10. </p>