Minox Developing Tank

<p>Hello<br>

I recently started using my EC and my LX should get here sometime this week.<br>

Just hoping someone can give me some advice on using the developing tank from minox. I know there are a few people here that use them. Any tips in general would be a great help.<br>

thanks</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi Ian<br>

Using a Minox tank is a pretty straightforward operation,although it has its peculiarities.A good start would be to have a look here on this forum,just access the Archive button on the main Minox page,on the right side.Feel free to peruse the sections therein,they are a good source of information,and the data is plentiful.</p>

<p>Alternatively,I may suggest the following:</p>

<p>-make sure the tank is lightproof and not leaking</p>

<p>-use it for BW only,since processing color in a Minox tank proved to be(at least for me)a pain</p>

<p>-check http://www.digitaltruth.com,look for the massive development chart.This would be a good pointer to dev /time/film type regular data.Of course you have to work with your films and chemicals to obtain your own values.Dev chart is only a collection of official data,released by the chem/film producers a start information</p>

<p>-you will need some bw chemicals,I would suggest you buy a small qty.Very good is the Ilford starter pack,but you may find others very useful.Do not buy large,just a small bottle of a general bw film developer(Ilfosol,for instance) and a small bottle of fixer,no matter the brand.Dilute as per massive dev chart or use the instructions on the film/bottle package,or start with a 1+3 dilution for developer and 1+4 for fixer.</p>

<p>-the quantity of liquid a Minox tank usually takes is only 62-65 ml(no idea in imperial,sorry).Make sure you have all the chemicals warmed up to 20*C.The tank is made from bakelite,a material that is prone to rapid temperature changes.This is why I usually pour a tankful of plain water at 20*C first,wait for 2 minutes and then pour the developer(empty the tank first :-).This way I am certain the temp of tank is 20*.A good stop watch or similar would be of great help.Remember to pour out the dev when there are only some 20-30 secs left from the chosen time,reason is that the dev acts further 20-30 secs after you empty the tank).So ...to sum up:</p>

<p>step 1 - have your chemicals ready(in small bottles,just the 65 ml needed,already mixed,sitting near the tank,20*C).Have your stopwatch set on proper dev time.</p>

<p>step 2 - pour plain water,wait for 1-2 mins max.Empty the tank.</p>

<p>step 3 - pour the developer.While doing so,start the stopwatch.Light tapping the tank for air bubbles release.</p>

<p>step 3- depending of film type/time/dilution,agitate using the Minox thermometer (if you have it),or a similar in shape thermometer and observe the temp.One can use a small plastic stick for this operation,similar in diameter with the Minox thermometer.If using a thermometer,be careful not to break it while pumping.Do not over-agitate,unless you know what you're doing.</p>

<p>step 4 - 20 secs before the time ends,empty the tank.Pour plain water to act as a stopper for the dev process.Agitate by small circular movements,while holding the tank in your hand(gently rotate the hand from your wrist).Pour the water.Do this twice.Time should not exceed 30-30 secs,for this stage.</p>

<p>step 5 - pour immediately the fixer,usually diluted to 1+4(1 parts fixer stock,4 parts water).<em>Assuming you have some way of making the dilution(gradated small plastic bottles,I use some of baby feeding type),this dilution thingy should be pretty easy to accomplish</em> .Let the fixing stage be twice the time you used for film development.Agitate slightly,tap the tank for air bubbles release.</p>

<p>step 6 - pour the fixer out.Start washing the film.Use only plain water at 20*C,poured down the tank's well.After some 10 mins,open the tank,and put the spiral with film still attached to it in a small jug of same temp water.Rotate the jug while keeping the spiral still with your thumb.After 2-3 mins time,pour a few droplets of diluted washing up liquid.Agitate once more and stop.</p>

<p>step 6 - carefully unwind the spiral,holding the cassette pressed gently to the spiral.Take the film out,wash by pouring the content of the said jug,along the film,kept vertically.Hang the film to dry in a dust free area.Clip some small weight on the film end,to prevent curling( a medium plastic peg used in hanging the clothing to dry is an idea).</p>

<p>Depending on situation,print or scan.If scanning the negative,you'll need to build a 8x11 frame to attach to your scanner film adapter.</p>

<p>One thing to remember:dispose of the chemicals in a proper and safe way,Ian...make sure any of such chemicals are disposed of in an environmental -friendly manner.</p>

<p>Hope this helps,and remember also that these methods work for me.You may find the need to adjust/change some of these aforementioned.</p>

<p>Feel free to ask if something is not clear.This forum has brilliant members,many with much more experience than me,and always willing to help!Just ask.</p>

<p>Kind regards,<br>

JT<br>

www.juliantanase.com</p>

<p>I have documented my methodology for developing B&W film in Diafine.<br>

I need step-by-step instructions, so I did this for myself - I'm getting old, with memory problems.<br>

My documentation is really too detailed, with pictures, to reproduce here in the forum.<br>

So, see it here:<br>

<a href="http://www.freeveda.org/camera/MinoxDevelop.htm">http://www.freeveda.org/camera/MinoxDevelop.htm</a><br>

The table of contents for my Minox Film Project is here:<br>

<a href="http://www.freeveda.org/camera/MinoxFilmProject.htm">http://www.freeveda.org/camera/MinoxFilmProject.htm</a><br>

with links to details on chemicals, film drying, etc.<br>

Please feel free to comment on my procedures and techniques.</p>

<p>I have noticed that not many people use the Minox Film, but have other films put in the cassettes. Does it make a difference of what kind of film you use when you develope? For instance I am using B&W 100/21 Minopan.<br>

thanks for all the detailed info its been a big help for me.</p>

<p>Ian,it makes no difference whatsoever,mate...Minopan 100 is Agfa APX 100,from what seem to recall.The same apply to all Minox factory loaded cassettes,i.e.</p>

<p>BW films<br>

Minox 25/Minopan 25/Minox AgfaPan 25 - <strong>Agfa 25</strong><br>

Minox 100/Minopan 100/Minox AgfaPan 100 - <strong>Agfa APX 100</strong><br>

<strong></strong><br>

<strong></strong> Minox GmbH never made a film "Minox"...they packaged different film brands into their own casettes.Surf the archives,in the FILM section,you'll find good data on MInox factory film types.</p>

<p>Martin perhaps can help here,and Gerald too...guys,a helping hand?<br>

Regards,<br>

JT</p>

<p>A few years ago I investigated the circulation of developer in Minox tank, and wrote an article "Agitaion of Minxo tank"<br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/minox-camera-forum/003HBP">http://www.photo.net/minox-camera-forum/003HBP</a><br>

Eye droper agitation is the method I use to develop Minox film.</p>

The reasoning for eye dropper agitation:

1) Highly diluted developer is easier to control the contrast of microfilm, also yields higher acutance.

2) The tiny volume of developer in Minox tank combined with high dilution, if not ciculate throughly, leads to too thin and unprintable negatives.

That is why I use high dilution developer: only 0.7 ml of Rodinal Special to develop one roll of Copex film, 1ml to develop Technical Pan.

<p>The same article in Minox.org archive has better diagram<br>

<a href="http://www.minox.org/minoxencyclopedia/t/martin_tank.pdf">http://www.minox.org/minoxencyclopedia/t/martin_tank.pdf</a></p>

But that article was the first series of articles, later ink drop test showed that developer takes a while to circulate throughly, this led to "eye dropper agitation".

<p>Another site in yahoo group (Minox-FAQ)<br>, same thread, but retains graphs better then photo.net

<a href="http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/QE5xSyPBr9Lsf2FCkGsdIvspI3a5LNHjfCtWCJdj_Y7Cu3AUolGsd1c7raD4hTXkN3GYI5aO_Gr5kw8Sj-AR/MP/agitat.html">http://f1.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/QE5xSyPBr9Lsf2FCkGsdIvspI3a5LNHjfCtWCJdj_Y7Cu3AUolGsd1c7raD4hTXkN3GYI5aO_Gr5kw8Sj-AR/MP/agitat.html</a></p>

<p>Minox factory also loaded Copex, Ilford Delta 100, Tmax 400, Kodak Imagelink. The best developer for these are different than for Minopan.<br>

The notes with the Minox developing tank and from 8x11film.com (RIP) are available for downloading.</p>

<p>The most confusing part I would have to say of the entire process is finding the right chemicals.<br>

I wish that minox still made those kits for the developing tanks...<br>

Has anyone ever thought of asking Blue Moon Camera or some other company if this could be done? </p>