Tokina MF 300/2.8 + 1.6x TC16-A on D2H - Garden Bird shot

<p>This image took a lot of work in LR3 b2 and PSE 8 to get it to a level that looks acceptable to my eyes.<br /><br />ISO 800, 1/1600s @f4.5<br />To my disappointment, the semi-AF idea is not that great. This was one of the reasons why I went for the D2H in the first place. I would say this combo is not the best in terms of IQ compared to my previous set up (http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00WZ12).<br /><img src="http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u161/stingOM/Tokina%20300mm%20Images/bird_d2h_tc16a.jpg" alt="" width="902" height="618" /><br /> Any thoughts?</p>

<p><br />Sequence shots<br>

<img src="http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u161/stingOM/Tokina%20300mm%20Images/F41.jpg" alt="" width="945" height="479" /><br>

<img src="http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u161/stingOM/Tokina%20300mm%20Images/F42.jpg" alt="" width="794" height="489" /><br>

<img src="http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u161/stingOM/Tokina%20300mm%20Images/F43.jpg" alt="" width="945" height="516" /><br>

<img src="http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u161/stingOM/Tokina%20300mm%20Images/F4.jpg" alt="" width="945" height="513" /></p>

 

<p>imagelookslike a bit soft to me although bokeh is fine. I d´ont have a Tokina lens so I c´ant help you. I have a similar picture taken with a Nikon 400mm AI-S f3.5 ED + Nikon TC 14-B and with very good result. Maybe some one else can help you better than I. Good Luck<br>

<img src="http://www.pbase.com/antoniojv/image/124500474/original.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Birds require a long time to get just right. Adding a tele-converter to a lens may not be the best answer, as you have found out.</p>

<p>Please check a few of the images I have taken with just a Nikkor zoom lens:</p>

<p>Bird images:<br /><br /><br /><br />http://www.photo.net/photo/5787081<br /><br /><br /><br />http://www.photo.net/photo/9658717<br /><br /><br /><br />http://www.photo.net/photo/8974873<br /><br /><br /><br /></p>

<p>Hi Jerry,<br /> I particularly like your second shot. I have gotten great result with the Tokina lens, but just not with the combo I mentioned above.<br /> Here's one mated with Olympus E-300, 8MP camera.<br /> <img src="http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u161/stingOM/Tokina%20300mm%20Images/Image00001-2.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Simon, besides the issues with the teleconverter - which we mentioned in the earlier thread - you're encountering the same limitation I have with my D2H. Resolution of fine detail is significantly hindered by shooting at high ISOs. The luminance noise degrades resolution of fine details in feathers, hair, etc. Chroma noise degrades the subtle sheen in feathers, especially with oily duck feathers and black feathered birds like grackles and crows.</p>

<p>While I'm an advocate of using the D2H at high ISOs for my candid people photos and using noise reduction later, this doesn't work well with genres where viewers have extremely high expectations: specifically, nature and wildlife.</p>

<p>My best results for photographing birds (and I'm only a duffer, not a serious wildlife shooter) come at ISO 200 with the D2H. Even 400 shows some minor loss of resolution and dynamic range. The latter became a problem when I photographed white feathered egrets and other water fowl on nearby lakes. Shooting at ISO 400 gave me very slightly less headroom for recovering highlights, even shooting raw.</p>

<p>Even at ISO 200, the D2H has been surpassed by models like the D90 and D300. I can see it when I compare full resolution JPEGs online. No need to pixel peep either. Just look at the out of focus areas or other areas with expanses of same/similar tones such as skies. Even at ISO 200 the D2H shows a film grain-like appearance comparable to an ISO 200 film while more recent models show smother, more lifelike rendering of those same types of areas, with virtually no noise of any kind to interfere. To get similar results I need to use T-Max 100 b&w film or a fine ISO 100 or slower color negative film (and good luck getting optical prints of the latter now).</p>

<p>Not to knock the D2H. It remains one of my favorite cameras for the purpose I got it for five years ago: candid people photography. It's not a wildlife/nature camera and never was intended to be, despite Moose Peterson's initial hype over the D2H when it first arrived. Nowadays if I was a semi-serious nature/wildlife shooter I'd probably go for a D2X, only because I already have several compatible accessories such as the AC/DC power adapter. At ISO 200 the D2X would be adequate and cost effective for my purposes. But anyone starting from scratch who doesn't need compatibility with existing accessories is probably better off with the D300.<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/3365177-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="532" /><br>

<strong>Nikon D2H. 300mm f/4.5 ED (non-IF) AI Nikkor. ISO 200, 1/80 sec., f/8. Tripod. Fill flash from Nikon SB-800.</strong></p>

<p>Incidentally, for folks viewing Simon's photos, you won't get a true idea of the images unless you copy the image location and open each in a separate browser window/tab. The samples he's posted are hosted off-site and "crush fit" to suit photo.net's 700 pixel width limit. So don't confuse the scaling artifacts and jaggies with the high ISO noise or other factors discussed here.</p>

<p>I got you point Lex. I guess I would have to wait for a while until the D3 becomes cheaper. In the mean time I am quiet happy just to improve my tracking skills with the the D2H.<br>

Cheers! :)</p>

<p>A few thoughts come to mind Simon,<br>

You need to use the D2h as a camera that has already cropped the image, and one that leaves you with very little further cropping options. This will often require you to use traditional bird photography methods of 'filling the frame', such as hide photography.<br>

I feel that using my D2h is very similar to shooting slide film {cropping must be done within the camera, where ever possible}, and the d2h is best used in situations/conditions that suit its capabilities.<br>

There is no dought that it is noisier than later camera's, and noise will reduce the amount of fine detail resolved. However, longish shooting distances {requiring further cropping} can reduce resolved detail far more severely than noise. Longish shooting distances will also 'proportionally' increase any camera shake that may be present {compared to shorter shooting distances}, although subject movement will be proportionally reduced.<br>

I personally use 400/500iso for the majority of my bird photography, and rarely crop more than a further 10% from the full frame.<br>

With small 6" birds {such as your examples} you really need to shoot at five or six meters max, with the d2h and your 300mm/tc, to avoid further cropping, and for fully detailed results. This will require you to spend more time on the fieldcraft side {maybe a hide}, than may be required with a more modern/high MP/low noise/croppable camera body.<br>

There is a noticable difference between shooting raw or jpg, with the d2h {regarding noise}, so i would advise raw, and try and keep to 400/500iso as a max.<br>

With regards to the tc-16a, ive found any degredation present to be almost unoticable on the low-resolution d2h, although a higher resolution camera body 'may' show any shortcomings more easily.<br>

I find the tc-16a to be slightly superior to the tc-14, and suspect it to be rated somewhere between the tc-14, and the tc-14b {which apparently has more contrast/improved coating}.<br>

I personally bought my tc-16a to allow me to attempt BIF type shots, with my MF tele. Obviously it is not as effective as the latest AFS types of AF, but it is good enough {and quick enough} for most subjects, in many situations, for most of the time {which is all i personally require}.<br>

Due to the 'band focusing' nature of this tc, is is ONLY suitable for medium to large 'birds-in-flight'. Obviously, for general bird photography, this tc is suitable in almost every situation.<br>

To get the best out of the tc-16a, you need to use it to its strengths {the band focusing especially}, and set-up the d2h to utilise this feature.<br>

You need to think of the 'band focus' function, as a crop prevention feature, and in certain situations, as a wing clipping prevention feature.<br>

The situations that your posted images show {capturing small birds in flight}, is very specialised, and not idealy suited to the d2h {due to its lack of croppability}, or the tc-16a {if you are attempting to use AF}.<br>

Medium and large sized 'birds in flight' are often well within the capability of the d2h/tc-16a though, and usually only two 'pre-set' focusing distances are required to be set on the lens {depending on the general size of the intended bird to be photographed}, and the band-focusing will take care of the rest. You can also attempt 'follow-focus' techniques, although ive found this to give inconsistant results.<br>

Set the d2h to 'focus priority', and preset the lens to an appropriate shooting distance for a full'ish framed result of the bird, and the 'band focus' will then be used to full advantage. The camera will prevent you from tripping the shutter, in situations where the bird is too far away {requiring major cropping}, and also prevent you from tripping the shutter if the bird has flown too close {resulting in possible wing clipping}. The band focusing nature of this tc can also be used to prevent the AF locking on to a nearby BG or foreground, therefore helping to prevent AF 'hunting' in many situations.<br>

When stalking small birds, the lens can be prefocused at an appropriate distance to prevent further cropping, and the band focus will allow you a suitable range around the prefocused area for shooting keepers, and ensuring that you are not firing away at subjects that will probably end up in the bin {due to major cropping}.<br>

Shooting with the d2h/tc16a is very reminisent of shooting during the film days, when it was preferable to attempt to 'pick your shots', rather than machine gun away {due to cost of chemicals/developing etc}, and most people tended to avoid cropping film, far more than we do today, with digital.<br>

I don't know how the IQ of your tokina compares to my nikon {400mm/3.5}, but i suspect you will get many more shots that you are happy with, if you stick to medium iso's {even if it means restricting yourself to shooting certain situations in specific conditions/light-levels} , fill the frame as much as possible, and use the d2h's 'pro's' more than its con's.</p>

<p>Alan</p>

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