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How do determine if these inherited camera's are valuable?


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<p>My Dad recently passed and I'm trying to find people who appreciate the things he's collected.<br /> How do determine if these camera's are valuable? And where would be the best place to find collectors who maybe interested? Thanks. Can I add more than one image?<br /> <br /></p><div>00ZaPJ-414423584.jpg.9a7d5f5dbb4de15db7337b8073cd0bf8.jpg</div>
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<p>Don't waste your time talking to us. Go to eBay and do a search on completed auctions/sales. The Contarex sells high. List your items as an auction. Start them at 0.99 cents, no reserve. Run it 5 to 7 days ending at night. Offer to sell internationally but only if sent by Priority Mail (but not flat rate Priority).</p>
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<p>The easy way is searching for auctions (not "buy now"-items) at that internet auction site. Look for serial numbers on cameras and lenses, read descriptions of their development to determine the exact model and put all this information into the description when you offer the items. Or simply put a film into it, go out and shoot - it's addicting, just done that myself... ;-)</p>

<p>The Contarex by the way is a nice camera with nice lenses, but slightly too bulky for my taste. Nevertheless, I would use it if I had one.</p>

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<p>BTW, that's not KNEB or KNES, it's Cyrillic alphabet for KIEV.</p>

<p>In any listings, one of the commonest mistakes, and an often source of bargains for the clued-in buyer, is that people advertise things like "Knes" or "Thaggee", instead of the real names. The majority of the seekers for the goods never find them, so they go cheaper than they would otherwise.</p>

<p>You have to log in at eBay to see prices realized. Never go by prices <em>asked</em>, anybody can ASK anything, but few of these are ever sold. Sometimes you will see these repeated cycle after cycle in red (unsold) in the "completed" listings.</p>

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<p>Reference reading!<br>

Here's a good overview Contarex<br>

http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/pp/zeiss/contarex/contarex.htm<br>

Here's a real pessimistic caveat empor<br>

http://www.zeisscamera.com/services_overhaul-contarex.shtml<br>

And for the Kiev ..some reading material<br>

http://www3.telus.net/public/rpnchbck/zconrfKiev.htm<br>

http://www.zeisshistorica.org/sample.html</p>

<p>I'd take then both out and shoot some film with them and see what's up! The main thing is have some fun... you might find you don't want to sell them ..heirlooms are that for a reason!!</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>Hello Mike, I know nothing about the Contarex, but I have a Kiev 4 like the one in your picture. I bought mine for $100 from Fedka in New York, probably the best USSR photo dealer in the US. Mine had been CLA'd and had the light seals checked and works well.<br>

Completed auctions on eBay will show lower figures, but of course buying sight unseen is a crapshoot, especially with USSR cameras.<br>

The Kiev was a Soviet copy of the Contax rangefinder. Price will depend on condition. Best way to check this out is run a roll of film through it using all the shutter speeds and see what develops. Light leaks are a common weakness of the Kiev. I don't know if you've used a manual rangefinder camera, but perhaps you know someone who has.<br>

There is a scan of the original manual on Mike Butkus' fine website:<br>

<a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/russian/kiev-4/kieva-a-splash.htm">http://www.butkus.org/chinon/russian/kiev-4/kieva-a-splash.htm</a><br>

The earlier examples of the Kiev (1965 or so and before) are more sought after than the later models. You can find the year by the serial no. at the rear of the accessory shoe. The first two digits indicate the year it was made, i.e. serial no. 62xxxxx says it was made in 1962.<br>

The usual lens on the Kiev is a 50/2 Jupiter-8, a good lens. The serial no. on the lens works the same way as the no. on the camera. Best is if the year is the same or within a year as the one on the camera, which means it's probably the original. The meter in the box on top most likely doesn't work any more, makes little difference to the value.<br>

I've used three different makes of Commie rangefinders, and the Kiev is my favorite. But that's strictly personal.</p>

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<p>Now the last two replies have been very helpful. Chuck, I wish I had time to have fun. The last three years have been a nightmare. I hope that when all this probate crap with my dads estate has finally been settled with my sisters I might be able to.<br>

The contarex is the "special" and unfortunately none have been sold on ebay. The zeiss lenses are worth about $150 and $200.<br>

The Kiev # is 51101 and the lens is 5008080. Meter works but I havent used either camera and need to find values on some of his other possessions before I can have fun.<br>

Thanks everyone. </p><div>00ZaV6-414509584.jpg.53ddd2c5e7c45b631418609340330d2b.jpg</div>

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<p>Wow, nice cameras. I especially like the Contax in the above photo. Have always wanted one of those bodies with a Zeiss lens.</p>

<p>To avoid probate, it is best to put ones assets in a living trust. My father passed away two years ago, and it was very simple to transfer assets to my mother. No probate means no legal fees for the lawyer (which usually adds up to $10k or more!!).</p>

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<p>The cameras you've shown do have value (the Contarex especially), but we aren't the folks to tell you exactly how much (unless one of us is a certified appraiser, that is). Their working condition and whatever lenses and accessories are much more important to determining total value. I helped someone find initial values on some cameras and lenses in his father's estate very recently, but they were common Nikons and only one lens did I not find a current sale on (his dad had a couple of nice fast telephotos), so it didn't take much more than a bit of ebay research. I did get "paid" after a fashion for my help. More obscure or rare items take more work to find current value, and condition always matters.</p>

<p>P.S. I missed a Contarex on my local CL a week or so ago - it was listed for $150!</p>

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<p>Here's a tip for anyone who finds vintage camera, but doesn't know anything about photography:</p>

<p>Resist the temptation to clean them! A little dust and dirt --even on the lens itself-- does NOT hurt a camera. It is usually the rubbing, buffing and wiping that permanently damages a camera. </p>

<p>If you include clear and close-up photos, then collectors can see if the lens is still in good condition, even if it is dusty.</p>

<p>Many collectors may even be even more interested in a lens that appears not to have been rubbed in 50 years, than in one that appears to have just been rubbed spotless by a beginner.</p>

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<p>The Contarex looks beautiful. I wish I had the money to buy it. Does it work? Did you try to shoot some photos with it? I suggest you do that (but be careful cleaning the lens - use lens cleaning fluid - you can get a kit at WalMart or Target). Of course, I just spit on mine and use a smooth, clean, 100% cotton T-shirt. Sometimes I lick them. Your tongue is very smooth and makes quick work of cleaning. Of course, you probably have no idea what has been on it (maybe poison dust, like Sevin powder?), so I don't suggest that in this case. Plus, saliva is very basic, so it might be bad for any coating that could be on a high-end lens. Lens cleaner is probably best.<br>

-<br>

Good luck. If your father was a photographer, you might find yourself regretting selling that Contarex. I recently shot with an old Nikon F3, and that thing is wonderful to use. You'd be surprised how nice they can be to use. Resolution of film cameras can be very high. It's mostly in the scanning (hard to find good scanning services). Some day, hopefully, there will be good, fast, high-resolution scanners available for under $100.</p>

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<blockquote>

<p>Resolution of film cameras can be very high.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I'm mystified by this claim. The resolution of lenses and film can be very high (as well as very low, and everything in between), but the <em>camera body</em> itself has nothing to do with resolution.</p>

<p>With digital bodies it is, of course, a different story.</p>

<p> </p>

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<i>"but the camera body itself has nothing to do with resolution"</i><br><br>Not so, Mark.<br>A camera body must keep the lens exactly at the correct distance from the film, must keep the lens' optical axis perpendicular to the film plane, must keep the film exactly where it should be, must keep the film flat, must allow precise focussing, must provide a stable mechanical platform, must...<br>If it does anyone of these thing not well enough, resolution will go down the drain.<br><br>But true, of course, that resolution is a property of the image, not of the camera. ;-) And that was was meant, wasn't it? That 'film' can produce high resolution images?
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<p>I have not used any of the camera's My time is limited and I may not have time to take pictures and develop the film. My dad was pretty good with keeping things in order so I'm guessing they all work. My sisters and I will pick numbers then start to pick things from the house on the 19th. Can anyone rate which camera is the most sought after? The contarex has two zeiss lenses. contax has one.<br>

How do I cock the Kiev III just to see if the shutter operates?</p>

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The Contarex Special is quite rare, and i'd say it's the most valuable of the bunch.<br>But whether that translates into as much cash as the Contax would fetch is another matter. It needs to find the correct people, people who both appreciate what it is and are looking for one, to fullfill its market potential.<br><br>Contarex Special serial numbers started with 24001 (ranged up to 27000 - so 3000 made), so yours is the 100th made, very, very likely (strictly mathematically, they made 500 per year) from the first year of production, which however (according to Pacific Rim) started in september 1960. So possibly still 1960, possibly 1961.
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<p>"<em>Do not do anything with Kiev. The last tech who could fix it in the US retired few years ago...</em>"</p>

<p>Not so. I've had excellent work done by Natan Rokhlin (you may look him up on the Member Recommendations page) in Phoenix, Ariz. As did Eddy Smolov at the end of his career, Natan works out of his home so you will have to contact him by e-mail. He will supply his phone number and address once you contact him.</p>

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