5D mk.1 24-70 f2.8L focusing problem

<p>for those of u who wanted to see the full frame here it is</p>

<p>here i mean</p><div></div>

<p>The sample you posted of your daughter was supposed to be a 100% crop.</p>

<p>The 5D is a 12Mp camera, so that crop is about 1/10th of the full image width. You are way exceeding a reasonable idea of what should be sharp. That was ISO 500 as well - there's going to be noise and there is going to be noise reduction - no matter how clean you think it ought to be. You're pixel peeping and you will see things wrong.</p>

<p>You also stated you will pump ISO up to get a high shutter speed ( you didn't need the 1/3200th you used in the posted shot ! ). That suggests to me your problem is technique - pushing shutter speed too high for no reason. Higher ISO - more noise - more noise reduction - softer images. Then you pixel peep to top it off.</p>

<p>> Besides that I got a focus confirm on her left eye via one shot and focus confirm will not light if one is out of tolerance.</p>

<p>Well, no. Just because focus confirm looks aligned to her eye in a viewfinder does not mean it is going to be that accurate. There is always some mis-alignment of these focus areas ( and it's not a point ! ). AF is not infallible - you should never assume it is spot on.</p>

<p>But I don't think you have a problem with your kit. You have a problem with pixel peeping and exposure settings.</p>

 

<p>thanks Stephen but if i walked out of the darkroom with a wet print and saw my focal plane had nailed her ear more times than not I would be also disatisfied. It was a shot taken in an instant without too much consideration for anything but aperture and a fast shutter speed. As you can see it is shot with a harsh cross light in the late afternoon which if i turned my lens to the right could have yielded a shutter speed of 1/80th. It is not about any noise or artifacts introduced by a moderately high ISO.</p>

<p>I basically want to know why my AF sensor point (which happened to be the centre one at that time) did not and has not on many other occasions hit the spot where I want it to hit with this body and lens combo? Is it a contrast thing? Her hair is definitely offering more contrast than her eye in that particular shot.</p>

<p>I think Nadine hit the nail on the head. I'm going to rent another copy of this lens and maybe even a 5d mk.II next week and try to see if by combining these 2 lenses and bodies in different combos I can find a solution. Expensive but interesting.</p>

<p>George,</p>

<p>You are not over expecting from your combination, besides, shutter speed and aperture have no effect on AF, it needs to focus where you put the focus, if nothing is in focus then fine but if something other than what you want is then it is either equipment or technique. If your AF test target shooting is proving the lens is focusing within the f2.8 dof then it has to be technique. Why not try more AF target practice? You have tried it on a tripod, now try it hand held, see if you can get a pattern, front or back focus. I have a strange quirk, when I do the multi shot technique of getting sharper images, my first shot is always the sharpest, it might just be that with the zoom 5D combo you are doing something fractionally different, maybe worth a try.</p>

<p>George, pls answer the following 2 questions:<br>

</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"My technique is as follows: . . .<br>

<br>

3) Focus routine is NOT focus lock, recompose and shoot but rather assign custom function for focus lock to (exposure lock button) <em><strong>and assign focal point adjust to big wheel so I therefore select focal point, lock focus (closest eye) and shoot.</strong></em> Focus mode is "AI" or "one shot". I do not trust "servo" on relatively motionless subjects."</p>

</blockquote>

<p> <br>

1. How many of the duds are from the OUTER AF points? (i.e. NOT the middle AF point)<br>

2. Do you change the ZOOM, after you have attained Focus?<br>

<br>

WW<br>

</p>

<p > </p>

 

<p> . . . btw bringing that zoom down here always buggers it up those L zooms are very sensitive . . . remember you are using it upside down when you are in Australia . . . we have special calibrations for that. . . Australia requires the robustness of Prime Lenses only.</p>

<p >WW</p>

 

<p>Scott, sorry for the late response I was jet skiing. Your shot is great and if you have a copy that you can get consistent sharp pictures at 2.8, you have a great lens. I was not that lucky I guess. At F4 my shots were very consistent, at 2.8 It was all over the place. v/r Buffdr</p>

<p>@William - I'm actually originally from Cobar (NSW) but I live in Denmark these days. I'm use to being "upside down"!</p>

<p>I use the centre AF point probably more than 80% of the time. Outer points not so much. I cannot see any pattern of the outer points letting me down more than the centre one(s).</p>

<p>No, I never zoom after attaining focus. </p>

<p>Try using AF-ON * I have no problems with my 28 to 80 2.8-4L</p><div></div>

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<p>Hmm I wonder how long Morgan Jones's posts will survive here?</p>