Rollei 6008 battery re-cell / re-build

I believe the cost for a pro Rollei battery rebuild is $95. If I have it done

locally I believe it can be done for $40. Is there a catch? Is there

something that could be missed by the local battery re-furb buisness or should

I ask for anything specific? Is there a specific cell type that should be

requested instead of simply replacing the existing cells. From an earlier

post I noted that the cell is a Sanyo N-500A but there was some discussion as

to using a 600AE?

 

Thanks

 

Rich G

There is a temperature sensor which must be put back correctly in the new pack. Using a recharger with a discharge function can help to extend battery performance and life.

I use a Maha charger the cells were unfortunately from ePrey and are completely dead.

I bought a spare pack from this guy. Please double check this ad but I think it's the right one, Very cheap too!

 

http://cgi.ebay.at/Antriebsakku-SANYO-N-500A-9-6V-550mAh-Super-Preis_W0QQitemZ280100339225QQcategoryZ40701QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Please note what cell type you are putting into the original battery shell. it could be NiCd or NiMH. the catch is that NiMH can only accept half the current for trickle charge than that for NiCd cells and therefore do not recharge it with the Rollei charger. The trickle charge current would be too large and could damage the cells. Or you can remove the battery before trickle charge begins. Tak

Much information on the care of NiCd and NiMH batteries can be found here: http://www.greenbatteries.com/nibafa.html#NiCd%20vs%20NiMH

Tak

<A HREF="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=006tER"> Here's</A> a related link that may be of use to you, if you haven't seen it already. The 600AE's are apparently the newer standard for Rollei. It's important in a rebuild to keep the connecting tabs as flat as possible, or the cell pack won't fit well inside the metal case.<P>

 

I've opted for a personal rebuild using <A HREF="http://www.batterystore.com/Intellect/IntMain.htm">Intellect 1400mAh 2/3A NiMH cells (IB1400)</A>, and they are superb in my 6002: they hold a charge, don't run hot under continuous firing, and never seem taxed by the camera. I use a Great Planes Triton charger, and have the proper .8amp fuse installed for the 6002/SLX.<P>

 

Of course, someone will probably offer up sound technical objections for not using this setup--and a fried 6002 is perhaps more expendable than a 6008--but it's working well for me, and in a very real sense has given my camera back to me.

I had absolutely no intention of attempting this myself since I'm certainly no expert with a soldering iron. Having said that the NiCd cell pack linked by Graham makes it look like a 4 year old could switch these out!?. Again from the earlier posts I'm aware that this can get tricky but with the cells already in a pack is it then as easy as it looks? What about the issue of matching cell pairs is that still a major issue?

I have tried that a couple of years back, following the link, and lost 2 battery cases. The most difficult part is the part that is most vague in the description: soldering. When you open up the case and look at the battery contacts you will be amazed that the soldering is very, very flat. the height of the cells fits so snugly inside the width of the case, making a very neat product. I tried my best but the smallest amount of soldering metal has a certain thickness. pushing this inside the case scratches and break the plastic wrap. the final product (modified by myself) could not fit into the camera due to the bulge. and one battery has a short circuit when the plastic wrap broke and the solder touched the metal case.

 

may be my intelligence is less than 4 years old.

 

Tak

If you follow the link I gave above for the Intellect batteries (batterystore.com), there's an option to "Create a Pack." You can order the 8-cell pack in style #17. What you will receive is a spot-welded, rather than soldered, brick in the right size and configuration for the Rollei shell. The welds keep the tabs flat, though you may still have to do some x-acto knife trimming under the tabs where the glue used to cement the brick together has pushed the tabs up.

 

After that, your only soldering work is with the end leads, relatively straightforward. This is still pretty delicate work, however, and not for everyone--and you do have to be careful not to force anything or break up the very fragile plastic shields.

yes, that would be much easier. thank you Stephen for the information. Tak

You shouldn't really solder tabs onto batteries. The proper way is to SPOT WELD the tabs to the cells.

 

The heat from the soldering iron tip can damage the cells. To use a soldering iron, its best to use one with a broad, flat head to heat the joint quickly, before the heat leaks away from the terminal and into the cell. It takes some skill.

Yes, Mike,I suppose that is what should be done. I shall try it on dead cells first until I got the skill before doing it on real batteries again. On the other hand, reading the further responses on that original thread, (which I missed last time) I realised the importance of having matched sets. If one of the cells in series of 8 was of a lower voltage, then upon full discharge (which is essential in maintenance) that particular cell could be charged in reverse polarity by adjacent cells and could be damaged.

 

Now that I have the powerinterface, I am open to a whole lot of different choices. One of them is an external pack of high capacity LiPo packs very popular among RC helicopter hobbyists.

 

Tak

I had put together some <a href=http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=006tER> details </a> of soldering these cells together, and Stephen has already pointed to it. Soldering is not for everybody. And, as Mike Kovacs has mentioned, the correct way is to Spot Weld the tabs.

<br><br>

Stephen's information about getting a battery pack is very useful. I shall try to order this cell formation the next time, and save myself a headache. Thanks.

Just an update to my post above: the pack was soldered and did not fit the battery case. I will try to find a pack with spot-welded tabs now.

<p>Is it really necessary to weld or solder them ? I am thinking some of flat conductors like the originals held in contact with the batteries by gorilla glue or epoxy . Then taped/insulated .</p>

<p>Jorge, there is not much room, even for a layer of glue. Btw, how would a tab connect electrically to the battery with a layer of glue in between? Perhaps I misunderstood but this seems like an odd idea.</p>

<p> The electrical contact would be implemented partially by the snug fit in the container , not the glue . The flat conductor will have to be press fit to the positive nipple by making a hole that allows to gird it through pressing . From that the flat conductor would be made contact with the side of the can which is negative .The glue just keeps the individual batteries from shaking loose . I imagine that the weak part of this is that in every electrical connection made by just snuggly holding the connections together , as when the battery compartments just have a spring to do it , some minute arcing always takes place . This will eventually make for a resistance build up . It may not be as long lasting as soldering or spot welding it but it can work , I suppose , the same way most battery compartments are still designed . At this point I am just thinking about it . My battery is charging quickly and going down to '7' fast also . It won't be long before I can get only a couple of shots per charge .</p>