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What Wireless CAMERA trigger is best - and reasonable


bill chardon

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<p>Hi all,<br>

I've tried to find concise information that tells me what I need to know, but haven't been able to track it down. I have a 5D and a 7D. I'm going to be shooting a wedding soon and want to set up a camera in the balcony, triggering it from below during the ceremony. I have two pocket wizards, so I understand that there is a cable that can conceivably work to trigger the camera. Does that sound right? PWs price is horrendous. Any other options? I've also looked at the Paul Buff CyberSyncs and third party cheapos. Any ideas would be most welcome.<br>

Thanks in advance.<br>

Bill</p>

 

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<p>I got a third party cheapo about a year ago and have been completely happy with it. I got it on Ebay from a Hong Kong vendor. The brand is "Aputure." I think I paid less than $20. Don't know its max range, but I have used it up to 50' with no problem. For the price, you can't go wrong. The only caution is to be sure the dip switches are aligned properly. They are easily bumped out of position. A piece of tape could cure the problem. I wouldn't hesitate to use it in a "must work" situation. I use mine with a 50D and a 5DII.</p>
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Which PW units do you have? I use a bunch of PW II's, and PW Max units to trigger my Canon gear and Speedilights for work. My Canon digital work kit covers the current range, and I'll be happy to shoot and post some setup shots for you if you use similar PW's. I also use the PCB Cyber Commander. It is just plain AWESOME for controlling studio lighting, and it plays well with Pocket Wizards in the same sandbox. If you happen to have a Sekonic meter with a PW module, all the better, but if you are building a CyberSync system to control your lighting, all you need is the two PW units to control your shutter button.

 

Post some details, and I'll illustrate some setup suggestions for you to consider.

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<p>I too had one of those cheapo things. Then during a shoot I lost a few shots. Now I use pocket wizards and they work, ALL the time. I don't have any misfires. I know some people will think they are too expensive but I say why do you have such an awesome camera and you rely on this 30.00 junk. v/r Buffdr</p>
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<p>If you need a reliable trigger - get another PW. Anything that requires making "sure the dip switches are aligned properly" because "they are easily bumped out of position" doesn't qualify. It is really that simple. Now, if you need a toy, eBay, full of Chinese crap, is your playground.</p>

<p>Not sure about CyberSync but I like White Lightning lights so you may want to give 'em a call and inquire: they are a bit cheaper than PW.</p>

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<p>Despite the comment above about "Chinese crap," I stand by what I said in my earlier response. We're not talking about rocket science here. It's no more complicated than a TV remote, and I imagine most of those are made in China. Besides, if you can't set up something this simple to work for you, maybe you shouldn't be messing with a complex camera.</p>
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<p>I saw this item in the latest EOS magazine.<br>

I bought it from Amazon, where it was ~20% less. I've bought it for remote shooting of showjumping.<br>

<a href="http://www.amazon.co.uk/hahnel-Wireless-Remote-Shutter-Release/dp/B001I905V6">http://www.amazon.co.uk/hahnel-Wireless-Remote-Shutter-Release/dp/B001I905V6</a><br>

I've set it up on a 5D and it worked well and it also comes with an adaptor that can be used with a G10 too.<br>

I might try using at a wedding now you've suggested it.</p>

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<p>If you look at the Hahnel at £40 and the "Chinese crap" they are exactly the same units from the same factory (Pay £30 for the name). The chinese crap is £11.25 with free delivery. I have used the chinese crap on both my 400d and 40d (my friend on his 30d) and not one unit has failed ever and btw the dip switches are behind a perspex screen and cant be nudged. I have used them for the very same purpose as the poster at a wedding and they worked fine. Buy one at that price test it extensively before the wedding and if the chinese crap fails your £11.25 ($ equivalent ) out of pocket if it doesnt fail and proves us right your a much richer man.Nothing to lose really.<br /> Canons ridiculous overpricing on things like lens hoods and cable releases really annoys, why are there lens hood up to 10 times more expensive than a third party is the injection moulded plastic on the canon ones kissed by angels or something "ITS A PIECE OF PLASTIC !"</p>

<p><a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wireless-Remote-C3-for-Canon-1D-5D-30D-40D-RS-80N3-R6E_W0QQitemZ190375650664QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL?hash=item2c5345e568">http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Wireless-Remote-C3-for-Canon-1D-5D-30D-40D-RS-80N3-R6E_W0QQitemZ190375650664QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Photography_DigitalCamAccess_RL?hash=item2c5345e568</a></p>

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<p>Thanks to all of you for your responses. I've shot a lot, but haven't done a wedding in decades so I want it to be very reliable. I'm not going to want to go up in the balcony during the ceremony.<br>

Jim Krupnik, Thanks for your offer to elaborate on your setup. I appreciate it. I have two PW IIs, a 5D and a 7D. I also have a sekonic 558R, but just bought the 7D and was thinking about selling it (for the cash-since I haven't used it), however, I do know that it fires the PWs. Studio lighting is two white lightnings. Remote lighting is ST-E2, 580exII and 580ex. I also have a Vagabond II for power if I need studio style on location. If the cyber commander plays well with the PWs it sounds very intriguing. I'd appreciate your take.<br>

I also looked at the CM-N3 cable from PW, but $75 seems quite a ripoff. If I can get a cybercommander for another $100 seems much better to me.<br>

Thanks again, Bill</p>

 

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<p>Gary,<br>

I can't comment on the Chinese radio gear crap, but I can tell you with certainty that Canon lens hoods are well worth the price. Actually, reading between the tears over the years, I would have thought that Canon hoods might have cost nearly as much as the lenses they were designed for. Of course, that's just plain BS, at least here in the States. A typical hood costs about $50, and is molded with a polycarbonate resin that will take a lifetime of abuse without failure. There may be a Chinese copy that is just as durable, but I have never found one in the pile that I have handled to date.</p>

<p>In my world view, any Canon lens I buy that does not include a hood in the box (as a cost saving feature for those who choose not to use hoods), will have a Canon hood ordered for it at the time I order the lens. No exceptions. Canon hoods not only improve lens performance, but they are nearly bullet proof, and take years of brutal abuse that would otherwise be borne by the lens itself, and do it without complaint or failure.</p>

<p>A $50 hood that defends the front of a lens without fail for a lifetime is a bargain. I'm all for value, but value isn't always tied to cheap.... These lenses have been slapped around for years in commercial service. They are tools. I don't beat them for pleasure, but I never treat them like fragile gems either. I drag them everywhere I have to be in order to capture an image. The lenses are old, but still look new up close. The Canon hoods are all perfectly functional, yet they look beat up and scarred on the outside, as they took the hits that would have otherwise gone directly to the lenses. I never had a failure of a Canon hood on an EOS mount lens since day one. They become dirt cheap after the first year of guarding your new lens....</p>

<p><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3009/2945652177_a04b5811f4.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /></p>

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<p>Point taken Jim and for commercial service you could be right, I dont know, but for the average joe I still think the non canon hoods are fine and yes I have dropped my camera and lens (Tripod quick release failed, NOT chinese crap either lol) and the hood saved the day Phew. As for Canon hoods improving lens performance when the third party is a mm for mm replica well I just dont see how. Lenses , Flashguns, Camera Bodies, Tripods etc for sure dont ever buy cheap but the accessories I'm not convinced about. "Horses for courses" I guess and at the end of the day whatever suits each individual and makes them happy is all that matters.</p>
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<p>As well as the two pocketwizards, you need to buy a pretrigger cord for your cameras. I believe the same cord will work for both of your cameras. I made my own from a canon hardwire trigger, and I posted a description of how to do this on my photostream on flickr, here,<br>

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8456144@N07/sets/72157600415521015/<br>

click on the photos for more notes and links.<br>

You can also buy a pretrigger cord, but they are expensive. Also, you don't want to try this for the first time at a wedding, as you will encounter problems. One common problem is the fact that your camera could go into a sleep mode and so you need to set it up and test it to be sure that you can take multiple shots without pause.</p>

<p>There is also a cool description of how to do this on the sportshooter forum, here.<br>

http://www.sportsshooter.com/special_feature/ssacad3_remotes/index.html</p>

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<p>@<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=5581747">Gary Moncur</a> I'd been feeling pleased with my purchase until you showed me that one.<br>

;-)<br>

So far it looks like it works well. I'm going to see what the range is today.</p>

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<p>Jim, I realized later that what you mean by "plays well" with pocketwizards probably means that it won't interfere with PWs at the same location. Not that they're compatible.<br>

So what would you do given what I want to achieve? buy the trigger cord from PW? Or sell the PWs and go with Paul Buff's products since I have white lightnings in the studio? With the cybercommander in the studio I may not need my sekonic light meter. Not that I use it anyway....<br>

Dave, I watched the videos and they make me want to figure out something like this even more. Also thanks for your link. I don't know if I want to chance it myself, but I know a guy who's great with wires and soldering guns and I may enlist his help.<br>

Thanks, Bill</p>

 

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