Handheld meters for landscape shots

<p>I was wondering if someone might be able to explain to me how to meter a landscape shot which has a cloudless sky but great views.<br>

I'm ever so confused should I take a reflective or incident meter reading as the landscape is that far away.</p>

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<p >As I can't edit my post, I was wondering if using an handheld light meter in incident mode to measure the light falling on the scene and take several readings and take an average reading, would this be considered worthy approach? </p>

<p >I want to learn to use a handheld meter not a camera built in meter.</p>

<p>I always prefer an incident meter reading for landscape photographs...providing that the light falling on the landscape is the same as where I'm shooting from. If that is the case, you merely point the meter from the scene toward the camera (or assuming is is a really spacious scene, point toward the sky behind where you are standing). It's that simple...you don't have to worry about reflectance of the subject matter.</p>

<p>Yes; incident is the way to meter such a large scene; with a caveat.</p>

<p>Cloudless sky, (blue sky) right?<br>

Foreground?..Perhaps a few stops less?</p>

<p>This begs the question what is the meter really metering for?</p>

<p>Answer: The level of light (FALLING) on the scene.<br>

Problem: 1) The sky will be blown out if you need proper exposure of the foreground.<br>

2) The foreground will be too dark if you meter for the sky.<br>

Subject matter, time of day, quality of light all play a role in metering a scene properly; not to mention artistic interpretation where no meter will render a competent opinion.</p>

<p>There are many ways around this which have been discussed at length many times in the forums.</p>

<p>Are you shooting digital?</p>

<p>My 2 cent opinion which I have voiced many times; if you are shooting <strong>digital</strong>, held meters are dinosaurs with the advent of histograms, instant image review etc...</p>

<p>While it's nice to learn and understand metering techniques, in most outdoor shooting situations; I find external meters a waste of time.</p>

<p>Please note before someone screams about flash meters that I am not speaking about flash meters; although I find them overused as well.</p>

<p>Try not to be a slave to what the meter is indicating. While it is great for general guidance, it will never take the place of the photographer understanding the nature of light.</p>

<p>How do we know when our understanding of light and shadow is progressing nicely?</p>

<p>A: <strong>When we chimp less and shoot more.</strong></p>

 

<p>I would like to add, and excuse me for stating the obvious, if possible you can shoot a few times and bracket exposures up and down a couple of stops, especially if shooting digital or transparency, as the latitudes for highlight and shadow detail are not as forgiving as negative film. If you have no tripod, either look at the corners of your frame to keep constant between shots, or shoot the scene wider and if neccesary you can stitch together in post.<br>

For example, if you have a cloudless sky and mountains in the distance, or bright sun and shadow, the difference can easily be greater than 4 stops...</p>

<p>Boris I usally do the same routine.<br />1. take an incedent reading with the meter facing the sun. My ground reading.<br />2. spot meter the foreground.<br />3. Spot meter the bright area of the sky.<br />I count the light stops between sky and foreground. If there are more then 3 stops you need to decided what you want. Good foreground moving to no detail in the sky or Perfect sky and losing details in the shadows.<br />I sometimes use the Graduated ND grads to reduce the difference to get a balance in so all is inside 3 stops. You could also shoot serveral shots and merge. I preffer ND grads.<br />If you look at the shadows and they are hard. its sunny F16 rule which is ISO 100 1/125th sec and F16 this is very reliable.<br />You can spot messure the brightest part of the sky and drop you exsposure by 2stops this works well. Your sky is good and if the range is two large you lose details in the shadows. If you shoot the scene in Manual then shot just shoot a couple more one a shot one stop up and one stop down. <br />Regards Carl</p>