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Canon A1, thinking of buying, any issues?


adam_jones8

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<p>The question is academic, because you're unlikely to see the first version. The optical formula appears to be the same. Early SSC lenses had minor build differences from later ones-- the aperture lever on the back might be locked differently, or the 'A' indicator on the aperture ring might be marked 'o', or the mount might be heavier. Somebody here will know the specific differences for the 50/1.4, but it's probably nothing that's very important.</p>

<p>Just find a 50/1.4 in good condition with clean glass, no haze, and a springy diaphragm, and burn some film. Worry about the details later if they make a difference to your photography. </p>

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<p>Don't forget to budget a lens hood and a UV filter, maybe a yellow filter if you're shooting B&W. I consider a UV filter a must - it keeps dust away from the front elements, and if you bump the lens against something you're less likely to damage it. The lens hood will be less important on a 50mm lens (I always use one), but it will be a must on the 35-105 if you get it. The correct lens hood for the 35-105 is the BW72B.</p>
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<p>I have an A-1 that was sold by a reputable expert in repair and calibration of Canon FD equipment. The camera works perfectly except for a weird quirk which the expert didn't check, calibrate, or know about. I own a Sunpak 433 FD flash which has 3 aperture setting you can choose from. On my AE-1, and AE-1 Program, when I set the flash to f4, the camera is automatically set to f4, when I set the flash to f8, the camera is automatically set to f8. On the A-1 however, when I set the flash to f4, the camera is automatically set to f3.5. When I set the flash to f8, the camera is automatically set to f6.7 (if I recall correctly). This quirk makes little difference in my results, so I haven't bothered to have it looked at.</p>

<p>What it does point out though, is that even "experts" on these older cameras can skip or forget or not know of a calibration setting. What's worse, the knowledge they do have is being lost as these guys retire. Find me a Canon FD camera tech younger than 40 and I'll eat my hat. :)</p>

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<p>Hi Adam,</p>

<p>Welcome!</p>

<p>I may be the only Canon FD user on Planet Earth who hasn't responded to your question. : ) I think this is the second longest thread in the forum's history.</p>

<p>Regarding flash, any Canon Speedlite of the A-1's era, such as a 188A or 199A, or the ones with T suffixes, such as the 277T or 299T, will work fine. Earlier units, from the early 70s, aren't the best match. The EOS Speedlites (and the 300TL, dedicated to the T90 camera) won't work in their automatic modes.</p>

<p>Of the period units, my favorite is the 299T, which allows selection of a specific aperture and has bounce and swivel capabilities.</p>

<p>Grab any FD lens that strikes your fancy, old or new mount, and have fun. You'll have to make deliberate side-by-side comparisons to see any subtle differences amongst the lenses. If you shoot print film, the printing process will obliterate any differences. </p>

<p>The A-1 has a lot of neat features, and it has become a sort of love-it/hate-it camera on the forum, probably the most talked-about body in recent months. Most of that polarization centers around tiny little things that you won't even notice. Just have fun shooting! Post some of your work for us once you get some film back.</p>

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<p>THis is a remarkably long thread - as someone who bought my A1 in 1983 and has taken it to 20,000 feet and on multi day sea kayak trips I can say that the A1 is very durable. Mine finally suffered a problem when the display failed to illuminate - this was in 2006. the repair cost about $60 and I have had no problems since. As others have said do not worry about the battery issue as it lasts 2-3 years and in easy to find.</p>
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<p>Adam, the site you've linked to lists date codes of FD (and EF) lenses. A lens's date code is a far more accurate way of dating a lens (if that's what you're trying to do) than is using its serial number. Canon's system of serial numbering is a well-guarded company secret.</p>
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<p>i have a canon A1 and 50 1.4. im quickly going away from my digital kit (rebel...) to use this more over the years. it was my mom's before and it sat on the shelf, after she bought it new, up until about 4years ago. I mean im sure it got used for a couple years, but it was shelved for as long as i can remember. It got pretty regular use up until about a year ago when i finally sent it in for a CLA. I shot kodachrome and other slide films with it, without having ever been adjusted, just fine. i sent it in for a CLA because i didnt want to take a chance on destroying a perfectly good camera. Now it runs great. if you dig around my portfolio you'll see that all of the film pictures i have were taken with the A1 (only film camera i have), 50 1.4, 28 2.8, and 400 4.5. the metering setup is a little annoying at first without the needle and bug like many modern cameras but you can get used to that pretty fast.</p>
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<p>I would personally (and did) go for the last of the line, so to speak, the camera that helped put Canon over the top as the biggest seller of SLRs -- to wit, the Canon AE-1 Program. It shares the squeek with all of that generation, but it is easily fixed. It's a more "consumer" oriented camera, but very affordable in good working condition.</p>

<p>It does use a BATTERY. ;)</p>

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