cordek Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 <p>5D, MkII, 580EX. Using fast sync, iso: 800, f/3.5, 1/1000. <br> Caught sharp image of subjects, but shadows behind them took away the shot. <br> In reading and consulting with others, I've been told to reduce the speed to 1/60, 1/80 to bring in more ambient light and that would reduce shadow effect. <br> The subjects are dancers in a confined area (ie: 100-200ft), night and very dim lights. I spoke with the studio and thet've agreed to "pose" the dance movements to decrease lens blur.<br> My question is: does anyone have an alternative thought?<br> Thanks</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackie_baisa Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 <p>Do you have a sample photo to post? In really low light, you can really crank up the ISO on that Mark II to 1600 without too much visible noise at all. Also, I would turn the f-stop down to at LEAST 2.8 or lower. f3.5 is going to lag in low light, even with a flash. I agree in turning down the shutter speed, but maybe not THAT much. But by turning up the ISO and turning it down a couple of f-stops, it should be good. You're "bouncing" your flash, right? Try turning it backward about 45 degrees, as well. It still diffuses, while toning down the direct light even a little more.<br> Good luck!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Laur Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 <p>Get that flash off the camera, and high enough to push those shadows down more. Or, if you can't get the flash off-camera but have control over the situation, turn the flash head to an angle that lets you bounce off of a large reflective surface. Use a big sheet of foam core, if you don't have anything else (like a white wall or ceiling).</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordek Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 <p>The images were captured at ISo 800, 1600, and even 3200 with shadows. I thought about using a white fibercord but did not have that availability nor the space. I also used one of the lumiquest diffuser to try and lower the shadow, without success. The light in the studio is almost non existentduring the contest.<br> Thanks to you both for your helpful replies. I am glad the studio is going to work with me to "stage" the dance movement after I explained the issues. We'll see what happens.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay a. frew Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 <p>You state that your shutter speed was 1/1000s.</p> <p>Do you realize that the flash may not "stop subject motion" when in "High Speed Sync" mode?</p> <p>The reason for this is that, in High Speed Sync mode, the flash emits more than one pulse of light (to keep up with the shutter-slit as it travels across the frame).</p> <p>So, if stopping subject motion is important, set your camera shutter speed no faster than flash sync speed (1/200 s, for 5D MkII).</p> <p>Flash output is also reduced when in High Speed Sync mode.</p> <p>Cheers! Jay</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig_meddaugh Posted April 14, 2010 Share Posted April 14, 2010 <p>Ron, move the flash off camera, use diffusers, or use less flash overall. It would help us if you could let us know what the EV of the scene actually is (or at least whatever the camera reports in Av/Tv/P) as "dim" means a lot of different things to different people. My suspicion is that you are using much more flash than you actually need... but that's just a guess without knowing more about ambient conditions. Also, unless the scene is brighter than you have indicated, Jay's advice is worth following as a 1/1000 shutter is actually slower than a 1/4000 flash of light. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordek Posted April 14, 2010 Author Share Posted April 14, 2010 <p>Well, i tried just about everything: reeduced flash power to several points; reduced ISO; reduced speed and played with f/2.8 to f/3.2 and STILL i am getting a shadow from the subject.<br> I am really looking like a dumb bunny to the client, so any suggestions would be GREATLT appreciated. The studio is DARK, with small spotlight lights coming from the ceiling (10-12ft). I am getting great focusing on the subject, just shadows that are plaguing me. My last thought is that the subject is too close to the wall....I dunno. just help pleez.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_holland Posted April 15, 2010 Share Posted April 15, 2010 <p>The fundamental questions, like this one, are always the best ones, and the ones that the OP stands to benefit from the most. Here's a text that goes the heart of what is happening, "Light, Science, and Magic".<br> http://www.amazon.com/Light-Science-Introduction-Photographic-Lighting/dp/0240808193/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1271307273&sr=8-1<br> If you want shadows to disappear, you need to give the illusion of a huge light source, or at least multiple sources. A larger light source softens the edges of shadows, and multiple sources fill the depth of shadows. Consider spending some time on the strobist website, and do lighting 101 and 102. Bottom line is that point sources like a speedlight only give soft light if there is a major contribution from ambient.<br> Dave</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cordek Posted April 15, 2010 Author Share Posted April 15, 2010 <p>Thanks to all for your thoughts and information. I'll be picking up the book to read on lighting and go to the website. The bottom line of what everyone has shared is shadows will always be there. With low ambient light it becomes more apparent, even with speedlights (unless there are massive softboxes everywhere). This has been a learning curve of all learning curves and thanks to all again.</p> <p>Ron</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acedigital Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 <p>How about a shoot through umbrella to soften and spread the light? Again this would be better off camera and very close to the subject (if possible). And definitely check the position of the subject and the wall, move them farther away from the background. Can you use a reflector panel behind the subject to reflect back some light and eliminate shadows? Or again, a 2nd light illuminating from behind or directly on the wall to eliminate shadows. Good luck!</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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