Tilt/ Shift Lens Screw Adjustment: Perpendicular to Parallel - Procedure

<p>I would like to learn the proper procedure to adjust the screws on my 45mm and 90mm TSE lens to change the angle between the tilt and shift axes from perpendicular to parallel and visa versa. I want to be able to do this in the field as opposed to send the lens to Canon to make the alteration. Put another way I want to be do right so I do not damage the lenses.</p>

<p>See <a href="http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/modify_canon_tilt-shift.html">here </a>and <a href="http://www.outbackphoto.com/workflow/wf_42/essay.html">here</a>.<strong> </strong>And get the right tools! (That means a hundred-dollar screwdriver - I'm not kidding, or you'll strip the screws!)</p>

<p>It is certainly true that you need to be careful with the screws but you do not need a $100 screwdriver. You DO need one that is an exact fit. Most any set of quality precision screwdrivers should have the correct size.<br>

I have preformed this operation on my 24mm T/S lens without problem, but I have done it only once. It is not difficult, but I say that having done it in a clean, well lighted, room not kneeling on the slope of a windy mountain or a salty beach. It would certainly be possible to do it in the filed but I would worry not just about stripping the screws, but dropping one -- I'd recommend carrying a few extras just in case.<br>

One last thing -- once you have removed the screws the two parts of the lens are still connected by an electrical cable. Be gentle when rotating the pats -- you might not have enough slack to rotate in both directions. <br>

Good luck!</p>

<p>I used the Northlight Images description of the procedure to guide me in making the change to my TS24, and found it to be very straightforward, although I would certainly not want to be repeatedly swapping between the two setups. However, I went a step beyond what is described there. Having re-aligned the tilt and shift mechanisms by undoing the screws at the back of the tilt mechanism and re-attaching with a 90 degree rotation in the direction shown in the NI description, I then took the optical part of the lens off the front of the tilt mechanism and re-attached it rotated back 90 degrees to its original relatioship to the shift mechanism. This is equivalent to rotating the tilt mechanism by 90 degrees whist leaving the parts of the lens on either side of it in their original relationship, althouh it's best done as two separate steps. The fitting is exactly the same – four small cross-head screws, and a second set of tapped holes to accept the front part of the lens in the alternative position, and the presence of thi second set of holes suggests that Canon have recognised my second step as part of the procedure. So, why do it if you don't actually have to? The main reason is to be as kind as possible to the ribbon cable linking the front and back parts of the lens. If you do the second stage of the modification then it is subject to no more stress than with the original setup, since the range of positions it is expected to take as the lens is rotated is exactly the same. A more cosmetic-level reason is to keep the focusing scale on top in the "home" position of the rotation movement.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses. It is clear that this not a task to make in the field. Most of my tilt-shots will be with the axes perpendicular. The practical solution appears be spending a $1000 more when the 45mm TSE II is released in the future or excepting perpendicular axes only with the current less expensive model. This option is attractive when it possible to buy both the 45mm & 90mm current models for roughly the same price as a future 45mm type II lens. My bet is there that there will be an excellent resale market for the 45 & 90 TSE lens once they discountiued in favor of the Type II lenses. This might make it a no brainer to buy the current models gets lots of experience with them and see if I can justify the II models later.</p>

<p>Some posts just make me want to scream.</p>

<ul>

<li>You don't need a $100 screwdriver.</li>

<li>You can't use "Most any set of quality precision screwdrivers". Greg isn't "right", he just got lucky. Had his screws been a little tighter, he would have needed to have a repair tech drill them out after he wrecked the heads.</li>

</ul>

<p>You need JIS screwdrivers. Although they look similar, Philips screwdrivers are designed to ride out (bump up out of the screw head) if over-torqued, preventing the screw head from snapping. The product is assembled successfully. God help whoever has to disassemble it to repair it, though, because riding out tears up the head. Philips screws are often a "one way trip".</p>

<p>JIS screws and drivers are neutral, and will allow for enough torque to snap the screw. Drivers are cheap and easy to get. Hozan are great, about $4 per driver. I think the 140 is what you need for the Canon TS/E.</p>

<p>With both the 90mm and 45mm lenses, I twisted the rear section clockwise as opposed to the direction suggested by both of the articles cited. That way both tilt and shift control knobs are on the same side of lens and both locks on the other side. I found it annoying and counter-intuitive to have the tilt and shift knobs and locks on opposite sides. After studying the ribbon connector I could not see that it mattered which way it was turned as long as it wasn't pinched in the process.<br>

I used a "jewelers' " screwdriver set made in Japan. It's not labeled JIS, whether it is or not I don't know.</p>

<p>Could anyone provide the exact link (or just name/model/size) of the right screwdriver for TS-E 24mm from this online store?<br>

http://www.micro-tools.com/store/home.aspx</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>