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70-200 Tamron VS. Canon vs tokina


shane_o

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<p>as much as I want the canon 70-200 2.8 IS it is just totally out of the budget.<br>

So I am considering other options at this point. Cost is just as much a factor as performance.<br>

I realize I will have to give up something. I am looking for something that will be for weddings.<br>

Currently I have: canon 30d, canon 50, canon 24-105, tamron 17-50</p>

<p>thanks</p>

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<p>I have the Tamron 70-200 f.2.8. I am very happy with this lens. I bought it solely due to cost concerns and would have preferred the EF 70-200 f/2.8 IS if price were no issue. That said, I am very happy with the performance of my Tamron. I used it for a year on an XSI and, now, on a 7D. I take it with me almost all the time because it's a great focal length and performs admirably in low light situations. I can't tell you whether the Canon is better(although I assume it is sharper and I know the IS would be nice), but I can tell you that I don't find myself longing for it. As for the IS, if you're shooting moving subjects (which I often do), I don't think IS will make as much of a difference. This is because when IS is needed to correct for instability on the part of the shooter, the shutter speed is oten too slow to capture a moving subject without blurring it due to the subject's motion. </p>
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<p ><strong ><em >“I want the canon 70-200 2.8 IS it is just totally out of the budget . . . So I am considering other options . . . Cost is just as much a factor as performance. . . I am looking for something that will be for weddings. I have: canon 30d, canon 50, canon 24-105, tamron 17-50”</em></strong></p>

<p ><strong ><em > </em></strong></p>

<p >My Short answer – I agree with Tommy </p>

<p >– Gidday Tommy, great work yesterday.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >***</p>

<p > </p>

<p >My Long answer:</p>

<p > </p>

<p >From the information supplied you want something fast to cover 105 to 200 and you want IS. (assumed that 70m to 105 at F/4 with IS is OK for you)</p>

<p > </p>

<p >You state that you know you have to give up something, but it seems you prioritize performance/quality - so I think <em>you need to decide if that something to give up, will be the IS or not.</em></p>

<p > </p>

<p >If you can live without the IS, then Canon options I see are:</p>

<p > </p>

<p >70 to 200F2/8L (not IS) - <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=937529">http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=937529</a></p>

<p >135L - <a href="../photodb/folder?folder_id=948936">http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?folder_id=948936</a></p>

<p >135L + x1.4MkII</p>

<p >135L + 200L </p>

<p >200L</p>

<p > </p>

<p >I dunno Prices.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >If you decide you cannot live without IS then it is best you stop buying take out coffee / food / beer / smokes / movies / and all other entertainment and save the extra $ and buy the lens you want.</p>

<p > </p>

<p >Is that your full Wedding Kit - if not, what is your second body? </p>

<p > </p>

<p >WW </p>

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<p>Hey William, always good to see you on. hope the meat sauce turned out well ( being italian its my specialty too )<br>

back to the OP. You will never be sorry with any of the Canon 70-200's. I use a 30 dollar monopod when I use it for video or to brace it and it works great. </p>

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<p>def a few things to consider there.<br>

I was thinking the 70-200 4 might be good enough for low light but the price is sure right.<br>

that or the 2.8 non is i thought for moving subjects in a church may not be the best.<br>

my plans are to get the 7d and then use the 30d as my back up</p>

 

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<p><strong><em>"What about 70-200 f/4L?"</em></strong> and <strong><em>"I was thinking the 70-200 4 might be good enough for low light "</em></strong> and <strong><em>"or the 2.8 non is i thought for moving subjects in a church may not be the best."</em></strong></p>

<p>The 70 to 200F/4: Speaking ONLY for Wedding Work – is the F/4 going to be fast enough? Well that depends on the TYPE of Weddings you expect you will be doing. Two examples – both where NO FLASH is allowed –</p>

<p>Ex1: Sandstone Stone Churches, High Ceilings, Dark Wood, very small windows, incandescent spot lighting at the Sanctuary which is smaller and narrows – even at ISO3200 or ISO6400 F/4 will likely be a struggle.</p>

<p>Ex 2 Modern “in the round” Place of Worship – lots of Clear Glass windows and lots of light Open Altar facing Congregation – F/4 at ISO1600 should give sufficient Tv for most shots.</p>

<p>Second point of logic – why are you considering getting the 70 to200 F/4 when you have to 105mm at F/4 already?</p>

<p>Assuming the Celebrant is strict and you cannot move throughout the whole service and are relegated to the rear of the Church / Synagogue / Mosque / Hall – 50ft Shooting Distance is a medium sized expectation so let’s work on that:</p>

<p>With your 105 extended and on the 7D (or 30D) you will see about 14ft x 8ft (horizontal format) so you can frame the whole proceeding and get full length shots – OK if you want the half shot you’ve got to crop a bit maybe even 30% - but the point is how often will you need that?</p>

<p>Now if you CAN move then 105mm will always be OK because you CAN move – so what’s the argument for buying the 70 to 200 F/4? . . .please show me that you will need 105 to 200F/4 on a regular enough basis to buy it . . .</p>

<p>On the other hand I can agree that there is a more substantial argument for a stop extra in speed over the 70 to 200 range – so that brings us back these as viable options: 70 to 200 F/2.8 . . . or 200L . . . or the 135L . . . or even the 85/F1.8, if lens speed (and not necessarily Focal Length) is the main criterion for the purchase.</p>

<p>But it might be that “Shooting Style” is dictating the choice –</p>

<p>OK let’s think that through . . . let’s argue you want aloofness for PJ style capture and that requires a longer SD (Subject Distance) . . . for the intimate Tight Shot of the B&G with 105mm lens you need to be about 15ft to 20ft distance . . . with a 200mm lens you can fallback to 28ft to 33ft.</p>

<p>Granted 15ft might be a tad close for the “Style” of some, but I think it reasonable to argue that 20ft is beginning to be a reasonably comfortable distance to allow “personal space” and not “encroach” . . . and at 20ft to 25ft with a105, there is the option of a small crop in post production to go tighter – the 7D would handle that easily on a correctly exposed file.</p>

<p>The 70 to 200F/4 is a cracker lens, I am sure – it will give you great images I reckon (I have not used one) but it is spoken of in very high regard by folk whose opinion I trust – I am <strong><em>not</em></strong> saying “Don’t buy it” I am just asking: “what are you going to use it for?”</p>

<p>It might be you just want a 70 to 200 generally for your kit – to walk around and take pictures and you want the extra length or that particular FL range – that might be your answer - I am just commenting on your kit and its use for Weddings.</p>

<p>***</p>

<p>On the matter of “IS” - <em>"or the 2.8<strong> non is</strong> i thought for<strong> moving subjects</strong> in a church <strong>may not be the best."</strong></em></p>

<p><strong>Moving</strong> Subjects are stopped by adequate <strong>Tv (Shutter Speed). </strong><br>

<strong></strong><br>

Image Stabilization will <strong>not</strong> stop moving subjects.</p>

<p>Image Stabilization <strong><em>will assist</em></strong> you in hand holding the lens and reducing (significantly) any camera shake at slow shutter speeds:</p>

<p>BUT – in NEARLY ALL cases at a Weddings, when the Subjects are moving (even standing still and swaying) with a 7D or a 30D and a NON IS lens and a monopod or a tripod and a good Photographer can use the 70 to 200F/2.8 L USM (non IS) effectively.</p>

<p>Having said that, I have always (I think) suggested <strong><em>that if the 70 to 200 is the lens which you have decided to buy – then it is better to have the IS than not have it – there is little one can argue against the “insurance” value of having IS.</em></strong></p>

<p>Take for example:</p>

<p>You arrive at the rear of the Church having been told you can roam – the Curate bails you up and says the rules have changed you can only go to the rear Aisle – OK you are good to go but you didn’t bring a Tripod and it is a no Flash Rule – you have the 24 – 105F/4 and the 70 – 200F/2.8 and your EV at the Altar gives you F/4 @ 1/25s @ ISO1600.</p>

<p>The B&G have specifically requested two shots of the Ring Exchange - one for each - OK you can cover 30ft easily with either lens and can shoot for the side - the B&G are calm and level headed you have a quick word and show them where you will shoot from and ask them to stay open for the Ring Exchange – just a space between them - they are cool - OK all is good . . .</p>

<p>You know these Ring Shots shot are likely to go to 14 x 11 – it was specific request - and you really don’t want to shoot faster than ISO1600 . . . so that puts the 24 to 105 out of action, because at 1/25s you have a hellava good chance of Subject Movement . . . so you decide to pull the shots with the 70 to 200 – and work at F/2.8 and 1/50s – the lens will handle being wide open no worries, nail the focus an you are good to go to nice, sharp, low noise 11 x 14 . . . and you are comfortable that 1/50s, if you time the shot perfectly, will arrest any Swaying or small movements of the subjects . . .</p>

<p>But Struth Ruth! what about camera shake – you have a big lens on a APS-C camera and you are HAND HOLDING and attempting to pull 1/50s . . . the thought of it makes you shake . . . No Tripod – BIG MISTAKE - but hey the show goes on . . . no time to run back to the car . . . you gotta think on your feet</p>

<p>Now there are many options about how you might pull the shot – <strong><em>but wouldn’t you just love one of the options to be Image Stabilization on that 70 to 200F/2.8L? </em></strong></p>

<p>WW<br>

Hey Tommy - everyone liked the Bolognaise – Marinated Chicken Breast and my Spicy Carrot Sauce with Garlic Green Beans tonight.</p>

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