Pinup Lighting

<p>I'm going to revive a thread on lighting for pinup. I'm just not getting the results I want. Part of it is the models I choose, part of it is the setup.<br>

The best I can tell from this video</p>

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<p>They use 2 huge soft boxes, and a ring light. But beyond that, I'm not really sure what the best method to light for pinup is. Does anyone have a light setup they can suggest?</p>

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<p>I'm not sure there is a specific lighting style for pin ups. If you don't know of him, check out Robert Alvarado's Model Mayhem portfolio (***NSFW***): http://www.modelmayhem.com/15033 He's a real master of the genre IMO.</p>

<p>One thing that does stand out is the vibrant colours and the extensive skin retouching. Obviously it helps a great deal to have a good MUA / hairstylist / wardrobe to help recreate the look but I'm pretty sure there isn't a lighting setup that gives an instant pin-up vibe.</p>

<p>Yes, Alvardo is VERY good. He has it down. Just not sure about the lighting and it's characteristic. What did photographers from the 40's and 50's have at their disposal?</p>

<p>I think in general you are looking for lots and lots of difuse light. Lighten up the models until they're just bursting with light, and expose your histogram toward the right. The ring light reduces critical details, and the soft light from every angle will flatten all wrinkles. That's the impression I got from the video.</p>

<p>Thanks Hal, that's what I got as well. Wasn't sure if I was on track or not. My other option was to do some research on it to see what photographer's used to maybe simulate it. Found this thread.</p>

<p>http://www.photo.net/classic-cameras-forum/00Gkzu</p>

<p>Really interesting. Sounds like flashes were bulb (tungsten) and format was large and the prints were a special paper. And the shot was taken from waist level.</p>

<p>I'll definitely try for more diffused light.</p>

<p>I'm not even sure diffused light is the key. A lot of the pin ups in the 40's and early 50's had quite hard light - take this for example: http://www.paintedladycakes.net/i//BettyGrable1943.jpg</p>

<p>Now compare to this image: http://www.stevencogle.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/pin-up-vanity-fair.jpg</p>

<p>The lighting is quite different yet they are both undeniably pinup style shots. So what makes them so? IMO it's the pose, make-up, hair and 'cheesecake' (for want of a better word). You have to have good light obviously but I don't think any one style of lighting is specific to the genre. One thing is for sure, if it's a colour shot, it's got to pop - think vivd technicolor. I'd love to know how Alvarado adds so much saturation to his images without affecting skin tones. I'm a huge fan of his work.</p>

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<p>As a footnote, another thing common to the genre is front to back sharpness - you want to avoid shooting wide open (I guess back in the day they didn't have access to fast lenses). </p>

<p>That's a good point on the fstop. I'm guessing as close to f22 as possible. That goes along with the fact that flash was pretty harsh if they used it and fstop would cut when closed down and give clarity.</p>

<p>Another thing that came to mind after shutting down the computer last night was the focal length. We know just from the equipment available at the time thay these pin ups were not shot from 30 feet away with a 200mm zoom! I have a book on George Hurrell and in the behind the scenes shots (i.e. shots of him at work) he's often a just a few feet away from the model for a head and shoulder portrait. So I'm guessing he's using a fairly wide focal length - perhaps 50mm or so (he's using an 8x10 camera). But there certainly isn't the super compression on these images that you associate with modern fashion shots.</p>

<p>It's really interesting to hear how people used to shoot and the equipment that was available. I can't imagine the raw skill these guys had. Must have been amazing. It would explain why so many shot at a beach mid-day! Simply fascinating.</p>

<p>Not to mention retouching negatives using nothing but a pencil!! We've certainly come a long way....</p>

<p>You might want to check this site out <a href="http://www.petergowland.com/">http://www.petergowland.com/</a><br>

Hope this helps John</p>

Hurrell's lens was about 56mm compared to 35mm. Alvaro uses selective color selection technique to saturate his colors and masking to retain skintones. Exessive retouching, exellent models and liquify to get that barby look. His lightn g is pretty straighfoward.

<p>this is another example of some very cool pinup work: http://www.vivaspinups.com/</p>