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Old Vivitar 283 battery holder


brian_bahn

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<p>I have an older Vivitar 283 flash, I am guessing late 70's to early 80's model. I bought it used 20 years ago and have never used it(came with OM-1 I use ocassionaly). Well, I would like to try to use now, if possible. I want to use it off camera using radio triggers, I have yet to purchase, just now looking at putting together a stobist kit and figured I have it I might as well use it.<br>

I went to put batteries in it and there is no diagram on the flash itself showing how they go in. So I get out the manual and it says to be sure to use the battery holder.......well, there is no battery holder in it. haha...I tried putting the batteries in in every possible scenario but it won't work.<br>

I am not sure if it won't work due to just being old or if I really need the battery holder. The batteries seemed snug and not loose.<br>

Does anybody have an older Vivitar flash liek this they can comment on. If I need the battery holder does anyone have suggestions as to where to get one?<br>

Or should I just forget it and buy a new Vivitar 285H? Or something similar.</p>

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<p>Brian,</p>

<p>You absolutely need the battery holder for this, or an external battery with cord that goes in place of the holder and completes the same circuitry.</p>

<p>If you are shooting this on a film camera or off camera with a slave unit, no problems. If on digital, one this old may have too high of a voltage for the sync trigger and could fry the camera circuits so be sure to check this out and buy one of the hot sho accessories that drop the voltage to safe levels.</p>

<p>Tim</p>

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<p>Tim,<br>

Thanks. I see there is a complete one on KEH "Bargain" for 14 bucks...I may get it hoping it has the battery holder in it I need.</p>

<p>I will be using it OFF camera. I had already checked the voltages before and this thing is off the charts dangerous. haha. I have an SB-600 for my D300 so I'm fine. I want to use this 283 on a stand with umbrella.</p>

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<p>You're welcome, Brian. I think I've still got five or six of these hanging around in drawers from my studio days and shooting weddings. I used a 284 on camera on an extended holder and a 283 on a stand, both on automatic and set to different auto ranges so I could get a 1:3 lighting ratio. Great results without having to constantly analyze the lighting math. Just had to set it up for good angles and then concentrate on posing and expression.</p>

<p>Depending on your subject matter, Vivitar also made (makes) an extension for the auto sensor that fits both the 283 and 285. This allows you to place the sensor independently of the flash for things like macro work and other situations where you might precise set ups for reading the light.</p>

<p>Before you order from KEH, call them to verify that it has the battery holder. They may have the holders separately as well. Great folks to deal with.</p>

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<p>Bruce.<br>

Thanks, I just looked and found one(many available actually). I really assumed since it was such an old model that there would be no replacement parts for it.</p>

<p>Now to see if it will actually work after sitting so long. Thanks again guys.</p>

<p>Is it an OK flash? I see they're not selling for much used so I assume they're just average. Which is fine for me for now. Just curious.</p>

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<p>The 283 was the workhorse for PJ's and wedding shooters in the days before TTL and auto exposure.<br /> I have a bag full and still use them as accent lights and when all I need is reliable manual flash because they work, and are so cheap.<br /> The 285 is more favored by the strobist crowd and those bring a fair bit more on the used market.</p>

<p>One of the main reasons they are so cheap is the synch voltage crapshoot that you deal with depending on which vintage you end up with. It's hard to find out what someone has on eBay. Most found them in their father's drawer and are trying to make a few bux but have no ideal what synch voltage is.</p>

<p>I always test the voltage as soon as I get one and mark it in sharpie and then use it appropriately. I'll optical slave any that are unsafe for a camera or radio trigger. The skyports I use are ony rated to 50v but most of my cameras can handle 250v.</p>

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<p>Was about to suggest E-bay when I saw that someone had beat me to it and you had found one. One thing that I can add is that if it does not work at first leave it on for awhile. I got one once that had been discarded that did not work on batterys and accidently left it on the ac adaptor over night and it started working. I believe that the capacitors just needed to be reformed. Hope this helps John</p>
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