- Stronger Bulb -

<p >I recently purchased a ‘Portrait Studio Lighting Kit Light stand. The kit came with the following:</p>

<p >1 x light stand able to extend to 7 feet<br />1 x 45watt Background light 5500k<br />1 x 32" translucent umbrella <br />1 x AC Swivel adapter / umbrella holder translucent </p>

<p >My setup was as follows:</p>

<p >In a controlled area (my garage) with my light kit 3.5’ to 4’to the right and slightly in front, extended 5’ to 6’ high with my umbrella at a 45 degree down angle, shooting thru the umbrella towards my subject (a full figured mannequin).</p>

<p >I took a few test shots with the one light setup (no other lights) and I was not getting enough light on the subject. I was shooting in full auto with P setting (Sony A330). So my question is this.</p>

<p >Would it be better for me to purchase a stronger wattage bulb, like a bright white 100W Incandescent Equivalent/1600 Lumens. 23 Watt, 120-Volt Bright White CFL Bulb with the following specs: </p>

<p >Finish - Bright White</p>

<p >CRI - 82</p>

<p >Color Temp - 5000K</p>

<p >Will this resolve my issue?</p>

<p>Not likely, too dim and poor quality light. CRI should be in the 90s. Have a good read here, http://www.photo.net/learn/studio/primer you can get there by mousing over on the learning tab up at the top of the page then click on studio.</p>

 

<p>James, you've discovered what most people discover when they buy fluorescent -- most of the low-cost fluorescent units don't put out anywhere nearly enough light to shoot photos by. Standard photographic "hot" lights start at about 500 watts and commonly go to 1,000 watts. Even those can require wide apertures and slow shutter speeds compared with studio strobes or even shoe-mount flash units. So a 100-watt equivalent bulb is about what you would put in a reading lamp next to your bed. If the 45-watt unit you have is a 180-watt equivalent (fluorescents usually claim to be equivalent to about four times their actual wattage consumption) you're still not talking about much light. If it's not too late, I would return the unit and go read the Lighting 101 section on <a href="http://www.strobist.com">www.strobist.com</a> If you can't return it, scrap the fluorescent bulb and its holder, but you could still use the stand and umbrella with a shoe mount flash if you get the proper mounting adapter. Something as simple as a $90 Vivitar 285HV can be made to do wonders.</p>

<p>Definitely, return it if you still can. I worked with two speedlights and umbrellas for a long time before I got studio lights, and you can do alot with those.<br>

Also, you should start working with your camera in manual, because once you start working with some good lighting you're going to need to know how to do that in order to have some control over your exposures.<br>

Practice, practice, practice, read as much as you can on the subject, and have fun with it!</p>

<p>James, strobes are really the way to go. I purchased an old set of lights on *bay and then added modifiers as needed/wanted. As it was an older set the modifiers are not too expensive. Over the years I have added decent quality stands, a background, a boom, etc. and now I have a nice little set. There is no where to go with an underpowered setup like the one you purchased. </p>

<p >Bob S. </p>

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<p >Thanks for the GREAT read…</p>

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<p >Craig S.</p>

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<p >I will not return the kit; however I’m keeping the stand and umbrella. I will invest in another stand and umbrella to use with my Minolta 3500xi and Minolta 5400hs flash units. I will have to locate the hot-shoe mounts for the stand and possible some wireless triggers. Thanks a bunch…</p>

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<p >Devon M.</p>

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<p >I have been working with my manual settings on the DSLR and I still use my film slr (Minolta 500si) on Full Auto / Portrait Mode and some of the photos come out great minus my light issue. I capture these settings and try to recreate with my Sony and I get something totally different. I will keep pressing forward. Thanks </p>

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<p >Phil E.</p>

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<p >I guess it is true, you get what you pay for…</p>