Problem using 5DMKII for sport Action photography

<p >Would Like some feedback, I purchased 5dmkII and my son soccer season started I’m having problem taking action shots I set my camera to M using high shutter speed like 1/8000 using my 70-200 2.8 IS lens @2.8 but the quality was not that great specially in some shot where the sun in the same direction of the lens or when it get little late darker outside , Does the 5dmkII have a sport mode? Cant find it in the book I have tried set the camera TV and AV / CA both will not allow me to take continuous shots is pictures the best option was the auto mode but the problem will only allowing me to use single shots only . On my older camera 20D I had no problem with picture clarity using it in a sport mode should I be using the old camera ? is the 5dmkII is good for action/sport.</p>

<p>No, it doesn't have a sport mode. It's assumed anyone who buys one won't need it.</p>

<p>Try Av with the lens set to f2.8 and study the manual to find out how to shoot in continuous mose.</p>

<p>Here is some action shot with the same equipment as John’s.</p>

<p><img src="http://SavasK.zenfolio.com/img/v1/p197562363-3.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p><img src="http://SavasK.zenfolio.com/img/v7/p795969242-3.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p> </p>

<p>set the custom function number (i forgot) to focus with the back thumb on ai servo or manual/prefocus</p>

<p>fyi the best light i've found shooting my kids' youth soccer is facing into the sun with lenshade of course</p>

<p>You can set the Drive to Continuous and the AF to AI Servo regardless of what mode you shoot in. Like Bob said, shoot in Av at f/2.8, vary the ISO to keep the shutter speed up above 1/500 if possible (without going too high on the ISO). And read the manual on how AI Servo works.</p>

<p>Sounds like someone bought something they shouldn't have...</p>

<p>It appears your a new shooter. ? If you have enough light, try setting your camera to P. This will do all of the thinking for you. You also can adjust the ISO to keep your shutter speed above 500. Set the AF to AI Servo, camera dial to P and the ISO high enough to get you shutter speed of 500 or higher. Although you can shoot that lens at 2.8 all day long, when I have enough light, I like to shoot it at F4 to F8. Adjust your ISO to maintain the speed. v/r Buffdr</p>

<p>i would you the Av mode and set the aperture to at least f/5.6 to keep shutters under 1/2000 and get extremely sharp results</p>

<p>Besides the above suggestions I'll add one more, adjust your metering to your shooting situation. In low light and back lit subjects I always have it set to spot.<br>

Mike</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>set the aperture to at least f/5.6 to keep shutters under 1/2000</p>

</blockquote>

<p>This is absolutely horrible advice for sports.</p>

<p>For sports you should shoot wide open for 2 reasons; it allows for the fastest possible shutter, and it isolates the subject. Although 1/2000 is plenty fast for 99.9% of all applications, why would you ever want to keep your shutter "under" a certain speed for sports? The faster the better. Read what Bob said.</p>

<p>I'm just curious, I know the 5D MkII is one of the best Canon cameras, but they also have several other excellent cameras. What exactly made you choose the 5D MkII?</p>

<p>Hey there John. My advice would be to check out the manual again and read about the types of modes and settings for your 5d2 on continuous shooting and so on. There's a plethora of information in there and utilizing the knowledge about your 5d2 would definitely be helpful. hope this helps!</p>

<p>1. Set your camera to P mode and ISO to auto, as a starting point;<br>

2. Set the AF to Servo mode. Set the drive mode to Continuous;<br>

3. Select the centre focusing point, as a starting point. I suppose you want to track and follow your son. He will end up being in the middle of the photo, which is not very nice compositionally speaking, but its better than no shot at all. Once you get more experience, you can set the AF point selection to automatic, and the camera will then start tracking with the centre point, and will follow with the other ones, if your son leaves the centre area.<br>

And please read the manual.</p>

<p>John, You don't need 1/8000th, somewhere between 1/500th and 1/1000th should do. If you are panning and want a bit of action blur a slower speed will be ok too. Read up on the various focussing modes and depth of field and how this is altered by the aperture. In taking sports shots the two critical things are shutter speed and correct focus. Practice achieving correct focus and following the action. Taking action shots requires the development of some technique, so practice will help develop skills. The best place for the sun is coming from over your shoulder. Shooting into the sun requires another set of skills! As the light fades the ISO may need to be raised to compensate for the loss of light.<br>

I would not just go to "P" mode and increase ISO, you won't learn anything doing that.<br>

Neill</p>

<p>I have other camera's 20D and the 40D my purpose of using this camera is because of the 21MP where the 200MM lens cannot zoom enough I can use my software and crop the image where with more pixel I have more room to play with without loosing quality, I understand it only 3.5FPS and its not the best choice for sport photography.<br />As per <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2290293">Jamie Robertson</a> post (Sounds like someone bought something they shouldn't have) you don't know anything about me,or what I have, I feel you where too opinionated this forum is for suggestion not for put down opinion's, anyway I appreciate all the other suggestion and as allways this has been very helpful see attach photo . <img src="http://picasaweb.google.com/khourys.family.photo/ChaminadeVsHarvardWestlake#5430118224770676770" alt="" /></p>

<p>John, you might discover a weakness in 5D II which is the crappy outer focus points. This tip will save you time later when you start seeing out of focus images. Count on your center focus point to nail it. Leverage the large 5DII image sizes for artistic cropping, in order to make up for having to use the center point, especially when fast action prevents a focus/recompose move. Fast action is feasible in a 5D II, but the camera body is not optimized for it, therefore you have to work for it.</p>

<p>Good Point <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/user?user_id=2020253">Savas Kyprianides</a> Thank you</p>

<p>Good Point <a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2020253">Savas Kyprianides</a> Thank you</p>

<p>Good Point Savas Kyprianides Thank you</p>

<p>You are welcome three times!</p>

<p>Good point Jamie (and others)!</p>

<p>John - in manual you can set any exposure you want - even if it is not correct for the scene. Thus if you use M you need to meter carefully. In addition when shooting into the sun (or with a white / bright background e.g. snow, ice or sand) you need to compensate to prevent the camera under exposing. Once you have got the exposure right then look at the AF. As others have said with moving targets the 5DII works best with the center point and AF expansion points selected and in AI Servo mode.</p>

<p>I think that P exposure mode and Auto ISO sound like good suggestions. You might not learn the fine points of sports photography that some here would like you to master, but you won't miss much of the action in your son's games, either.</p>

<p>Make sure that your High ISO Noise Reduction is set to Standard.</p>

<p>Set you metering pattern to Center Weighted. Other patterns have merits, but this one is probably the safest and most predicatble. As someone mentioned, spot metering might be better when backlighting is present. Be careful, though, as spot-metering tends not to work in very dark places.</p>

<p>Enable the blinking highlights display to warn you when the camera is overexposing (every camera does sometimes). If you see blinking lights on a lot of photos consider turning the exposure compensation down to about -2/3. Just don't forget to set it back to zero when you're done.</p>

<p>Eventually, you should experiment with various modes and with various methods of determining the "correct" exposure in various situations, including backlighting. Eventually, you'll be able to rely less on the camera's meter and more on your own skills. But don't go that route just yet. Your son's games are too important. You don't want to blow it with too much experimenting.</p>

John, you have a superbly capable kit and great opportunity to capture some really memorable shots. However, a high-end camera mated to a high-end lens won't necessarily guarantee you great shots. I would spend some time polishing up on the fundamentals, whether from the manual or the plethora of learning resources that exist. You have received some good suggestions on technique. Perhaps practice some of these ahead of your son's games, see what works best for you and then use those during his games.

<p>Happy shooting :)

<p>Savas, that shot of the Porsche Spyder is beautiful!</p>