Best MF zoom for Nikon beginner?

<p>Hi , <br /> I am going to give a surprise to my cousin who just started film photography last year. He has the 50/1.4 but I think a zoom lens would be more effective to help him to develop his skills. <br /> My cousin use FM2 so I think he might need a Ai zoom lens. But I don't know much about Nikon MF Zoom lenses since I rarely use zoom lens. I want some advice from you to help me choose.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>Does it have to be MF? <br>

The reason I ask is because he can use any AF lens (NOT G type) on any film body. He will have to focus manually and in the case he moves to an AF body later on, he already got some lenses.<br>

I think you can find a very good AF 35-70 f/2.8 (I also think there is a MF version of it). This will be a very good lens and he can use it in all type of cameras including DSLR's.<br>

Now it will also depend on how much you are willing to spend.<br>

Cheers! </p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>My cousin use FM2 so I think he might need a Ai zoom lens.</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>Any AI or AIS zoom lens will work on the FM2. Basically, if the aperture ring has <a href="http://www.pacificrimcamera.com/images/80222.jpg">two rows of f/stop numbers</a> it will work. If it has only one row of f/stop numbers, it probably won't. And any autofocus lens that has an aperture ring will also work, but autofocus lenses feel "sloppy" when used on a manual body if you are used to the precision of metal manual focus lenses.</p>

<p>Your parameters ("zoom lens") are really to narrow to offer any concrete advise. Nikon made manual focus zoom lenses ranging from 25~50mm to 200~400mm (and longer). Add compatible autofocus zoom lenses and you can cover everything from 17mm through to 400mm with just three zooms.</p>

<p>If you are just looking for a "normal" zoom covering wide angle to moderate telephoto, you have a plethora of choices, including but not limited to:</p>

<ul>

<li>AI/AIS 25~50/4</li>

<li>AIS 28~85/3.5-4.5</li>

<li>AI/AIS 35~70/3.5 (no f/2.8 version in manual focus)</li>

<li>AIS 35~70/3.3-4.5</li>

<li>AIS 35~105/3.5-4.5</li>

<li>AIS 35~135/3.5-4.5</li>

<li>AIS 35~200/3.5-4.5</li>

<li>etc, etc, etc.</li>

</ul>

<p>Have some fun reading here:<br /> http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/nikon/nikkoresources/zoomsMF/index.htm</p>

<p>The 25~50mm was (and still is) a stellar performer for landscape photography on film, but they are not that common and still command a high price on the used market. The 35~105mm was a very popular zoom, and is inexpensive (under $125). Even the constant aperture "pro" 35~70mm f/3.5 can be found for under $175 if you shop around. The 28~85mm is a nice handling zoom on the FM2, and you can often find these for under $150.</p>

<p>Lots to choose from ...</p>

<p>It depends on what range of zoom he might find most helpful. As the above poster mentioned, you CAN use the standard AF lenses just fine. Some may not have the nice feel of a full manual lens, when you twist the focus, but as long as you get one that has more than a thin, hard , ring to focus with, it would be a fine choice.</p>

<p>For a good zoom that won't scare the wallet, try for a clean 75-150 Series E lens. If you think something wider would be to his liking, I have had good results from the 28-85mm f3.4-4.5 AF lens. The later version of that one has a nice focus ring to twist. You can also get one of the AI or AIS 35-70 f3.5 zooms as well. They go quite inexpensively now.</p>

<p>None of these will cost much over $100 these days. Maybe the Series E, if it's a good one with no zoom creap.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The quality of zoom lenses has improved a lot around 1990, roughly coincides with the time AF came on the scene. Therefore, if you want good zooms, you have a lot more choices if you are willing to get an AF zoom. Just make sure you get one with an aperture ring so that the FM2 body can control the aperture. I.e., avoid G lenses.</p>

<p>One potential down side is that some AF lenses do not provide a good feel for manual focusing.</p>

<p>The old Ais 50-135 3.5 was a beauty, so sorry I ever sold that....</p>

<p>I don't care for the focus feel of AF Nikkors. If you don't knowwhat range of zoom he would like there are some great primes available wide 24mm-35mm or short tele like a 105mm f2.5 which can be found fairly cheap in good or better condition. I have a 75-150mm Nikkor and like it the little I have used it.</p>

<p>For those on a budget their are more good zooms available in Ai and AIs than there is in AF. The really expensive (not because of VR, non wide range) AF zooms are really really good and the really cheap (and really wide range) AF zooms are really really bad. The Ai and Ais zooms tend to fall more in the middle, and do not try to cover such a wide range, with three (rare and expensive ones) actually being better than what is available in AF. </p>

<p>May I suggest the humble 36-72mm Series E? I use mine on my FM3a and F3 and find it offers an intuative design, good imaging quality - even into the far corners and it is very inexpensive too. It is not perfect, but I am getting more fun from this lens and more 'keepers' than ever before. f/3.5 constant is very useful on film cameras, and even wide open it is good.</p>

<p>Have a look at <a href="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9677662-lg.jpg">http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/9677662-lg.jpg</a> which was taken with this lens on my F3. Look at the texture of the ladies dress and the colours. This is a compressed scan, but really, this humble lens really is a nice performer.</p>

<p>The 28-70mm 3.3-4.5 AF is a great little zoom which sells for low prices and is very sharp, especially at f5.6 andf 8.0. And 28mm provides a more recognizably "wide" perspective compared with a 35.</p>

<p>Thank you :D<br>

I think a new AF may not be necessary because it is a MF camera. And I don't want him to get involved in AF/digital area right now. So I checked the website and thinking about these:<br>

28-85mm<br /> 35-85mm<br /> 35-105, and<br /> 35-105mm,<br>

I think the above 4 lenses should be enough for him for daily use. Which one would you suggest?</p>

<p>I don't recommend any variable aperture zoom for the FM2. The FM2 is a fully manual camera, and it doesn't have any automatic exposure mode. While the body with automatic exposure (the likes of FE2 or F3) can change its shutter speed automatically and steplessly corresponding to the aperture, the FM2 requires operator's exposure readjustment anytime you zoom (anytime aperture change occurs) by tweaking the aperture ring on the lens. Readjusting the exposure with the body like FM2 is not easily done like you do with a modern electric camera on the manual exposure mode, which only requires just clicking the dials to adjust 1/3 stop or so. And furthermore, the F number shown in the FM2's viewfinder is not the real F number with the variable aperture lenses; it only shows the number on the wide side of the zoom. If you want to use a handheld lightmeter, which becomes a real mess.<br>

So, if you want to choose a zoom starting from around 35mm, I would recommend:<br>

36-72/3.5 series E (compactness/lightness)<br>

35-70/3.5 Ai (image/built quality)<br>

50-135/3.5 Ai (image/built quality & tele capability)</p>

<p>If you are looking for little longer focal lengths 80-200mm F4 AIS.</p>

<p>Fairly heavy but best manual focus zoom by Nikon.</p>

<p>I'd have to agree about the 80-200 AI or AIS zoom . This is a real handy zoom range for a variety of subjects.<br>

If you buy one, make sure the zoom isn't really loose. Reputable dealers such as KEH, will specify this flaw. These are all a bit loose from age I suppose?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>+1 for 75-150mm Nikkor</p>

<p>80-200mm might not necessary right now, since it is heavy and I don't think he need this at this moment. I start from 35mm because 35mm is the best focal length I used for snap shooting. 28mm is ok but I rarely use it. How about Zoom start from 28mm? Should I let him try with it first?</p>

<p>Well, I am going to swim against the current here.</p>

<p>I suggest that you get him a "D" autofocus lens. The D lenses have an aperture ring on the barrell, and will work just fine with the manual film camera.</p>

<p>However, the chances that he will stay with a manual focus film camera longer than the first semester are just about zero. Perhaps expressed in negative numbers if you want a percentage.</p>

<p>So, isn't it better practice to get him a zoom that will work with his manual camera AND which will autofocus when he moves up to a DSLR. A D lens will not autofocus with a D40 or D60 (which lack the autofocus motor in the camera body), but will work with just about every other DSLR. A huge downside to manual focus lenses in present times is that they will not even meter with Nikon DSLRs unless one goes up to the advanced amateur models, like D100 - and up. Manual focus lenses will only meter with the higher level bodies, and that irritant alone was enough to drive me from the D70s to the D300.</p>

<p>Finally, in DSLRs there is the little issue of the viewfinder. The FM2 has a huge advantage in its viewfinder that is not found in most DSLRs. The viewfinder is large and bright, but there is something even more important for accurate focus. It has a split prism rangefinder smack in the middle of the frame. What a pleasure to work with when using a manual focus lens -- put that baby right on the iris of the model. OTOH, the viewfinders of most DSLRs are smaller, darker, and have no focusing aids save for a tiny, little blinky green light off to the side.</p>

<p>That's part of why most of us do not want to use our older MF lenses on a DSLR. Focusing is slow, squinty, dark, and not always so accurate as it was on our film cameras. Ergo, we all get autofocus and just push the little button to get there. If you get cousin a decent used "D" lens he will have a very good lens for the manual focus camera, and he will have a decent lens for use for many years when he moves to digital.</p>

<p>YMMV</p>

<p>A bit late replying here, but if you are still looking for advice here are some suggestions for a few very nice MF zooms that will work well with an FM2:</p>

<p><em>28-50mm f3.5</em> and <em>70-150mm f3.5 Series E </em> (both take 52mm filters, the same as your cousin's 50mm f1.4).</p>

<p><em>35-70mm f3.5</em> and/or <em>50-135mm f3.5 </em> and/or <em>100-300mm f5.6 </em> (all three use 62 mm filters)</p>

<p><em>35-200mm f3.5-4.5 </em> (uses 62 mm filters)</p>

<p>I own and use all of these and they are all very good lenses. All but one of them have a constant aperture, a feature commonly found only on Nikon's very expensive "professional" zoom lenses.</p>

<p>The first set is quite compact and light-weight.</p>

<p>The second set is considerably bulkier but covers a very wide range.</p>

<p>The 35-200 is the only variable aperture MF zoom that I own, but it is an extremely versatile lens that provides excellent images and covers an impressive range, because of that it's the zoom that actually sees the most use (for me). If I lost mine I'd be looking for a replacement.</p>

<p>Now is a good time to be buying MF glass. The lenses work just as well as they ever did and you can find some really nice lenses for a fraction of what similar AF glass would cost, besides there is just something quite pleasing about the feel of Nikkor MF lenses. Good luck finding what you are looking for.</p>