Jump to content

To pre soak or not...


michel_leclerc

Recommended Posts

<p>Hello,</p>

<p> i'm interested to know your experience if you are Pre Soaking or not your film before processing when you're using the inversion method or a mechanical one like JOBO or Unicolor processor? I read contradictory comments here and on the web but can make up my mind.<br>

I'm using TriX, FP4 and HP5 films in 35mm and 120 process with D76, Pyro, HC110. On some of their processing intructions sheets, it is mentionned not to do it and JOBO tell us to do it, any reasons?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I use ss and plastic patterson inversion tanks.<br>

The only film I'm not presoaking at this time is Ilford.<br>

In the past I've always presoaked and never have noticed uneven development but then I don't own a <br>

densitometer. </p>

<p>When souping sheet film in trays, <em>my methods</em> REQUIRE a sodium metaborate presoak to avoid streaks/uneven development</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I use ss and plastic patterson inversion tanks.<br>

The only film I'm not presoaking at this time is Ilford.<br>

In the past I've always presoaked and never have noticed uneven development but then I don't own a <br>

densitometer. </p>

<p>When souping sheet film in trays, <em>my methods</em> REQUIRE a sodium metaborate presoak to avoid streaks/uneven development</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Generally, no , pre-soaking serves no purpose for most situations. Ilford generally recommends against it - reportedly Ilford films are designed to rapidly and evenly absorb developers without need for pre-soaking. You can find their recommendations in PDF and HTML formats on their website. For the most part pre-soaking is a holdover from large format sheet film which was often developed in open trays for very short times, typical of HC-110 Dilution B and some fast acting universal developers. Pre-soaking was believed to enhance more even development.</p>

<p>But like the 8x10 paper size that's the wrong aspect ratio for 35mm film, it's a holdover practice that's became a standard through sheer repetition. Pre-soaking might make sense for very short developing times with 35mm and MF, but it seems to make better sense to use developers in dilutions that allow for around 10 minutes of development time.</p>

<p>There are a few exceptions. With films other than Kodak or Ilford to be developed in Diafine I'll pre-soak only because some films use readily soluble dyes that would discolor the recycled developer. I doubt the dyes do any harm tho'.</p>

<p>Some folks pre-soak because they believe it reduces the risks of bubbles forming on the negatives. Others because they're allergic to any hint of a light tint in their negatives. To combat the dreaded magenta, blue or purple tint, they will fight with pre-soaks, two separate fixing baths, long washes with HCA and aggressive agitation, followed by exposure to UV light. When all else fails, out come the gris-gris bags and incantations.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>You may be able to tell whether your films will benefit from a pre-soak by looking at the negs.<br>

I never pre-soaked 35mm or 120 film. I switched to a Jobo when I started 5x4 but I found that my skies weren't as smooth as I expected. Pre-soaking helped that.<br>

I have recently started 10x8 in trays and found a little bit of streaking on my negs which I think may be helped by a pre-soak as that's what got the 5x4's looking good.<br>

If the negs look ok without it then there would be no need to pre-soak.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I haven't noticed any benefits of pre-soaking. I have noticed a color change in the solutions when I pour out, based on pre-soaking or no pre-soaking; but, image-wise, I haven't noticed any difference in the practice.</p>

<p>If you had some kind of extreme temperature in the processing area, maybe it would be a benefit for temperature control. Other than that, I don't see any advantage with common films.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>I my early days in darkroom work, I used to get the occasional problem with uneven development of films, particularly 120 size. So I started pre-soaking and have never since had any problem. I use Paterson tanks and reels , and I use the inversion method of agitation. I give 6 inversions, bump the tank on the heel of my hand to dislodge air-bells and then let the tank stand for a minute. Then I give one more inversion and let it stand for a further minute. Then, I empty the tank and pour in the developer.<br>

Some people regard pre-soaking as little more than voodoo but it works for me so I continue to do it.</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Ha, here's another clear case of "what do I know". I've ben pre-soaking all my films for years including my beloved Ilford FP4+, which I use now almost exclusively, and my results are very smooth and great. However, my pre-soak consists of pouring water of proper temp. in the tank, letting it sit about 15 seconds and dumping it out. Now I have to decide what I should do from now on. OK, I decided, I'm not changing a thing, after all I know better than Ilford.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>The temperatures in my processing area can vary from 60-78 degrees throughout the year. When I realized my beginning developer temp. could be considerably higher or lower than the ending temp. I decided to start presoaking in an effort to stabilize the temp of my film and stainless reels at 68 degrees before hitting the developing solution. Whether true or not I decided presoaking did help with my temp. control so I have stuck with it over the years. I have limited the soak to 1 min. or less based on an article written by Phil Davis on the subject (Photo Techniques Vol 15 No 3 1994). He found longer soaks could effect speed and contrast which I wanted to avoid.</p>
Link to comment
Share on other sites

<p>Thank you all!<br>

As i can see , there is 2 camps. I'll start to presoak the Kodak films from now when using the Unicolor with a JOBO tank. It might help to get better negs. Normally my darkroom's temperature is always close to 68F, 20C but i'm concern with the temperature drop my tank might be doing when i poored the develloper in it. <br>

In the past with the inversion method, i was putting my tank in a water bath at 68F but now i have to use an extension on the JOBO tank to be able to use it with the Unicolor system.<br>

Regards!</p>

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...