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Paterson Reels?


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<p>Since I've purchased my Jobo processor I found the Jobo reels the be excellent. What I really like is that with the red tab I can put two rolls of 120 on one reel saving me quite a bit of money in chems.<br>

I always suggest someone looking in the now rock bottom prices of Jobo processors. The CPE devices can be put on the sink counter and tucked away later on very easy.</p>

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<p>Easy to find parts if you know where to look. Built like a tank and will last for ages if you know how to take care of something. Just a bit of lube once in awhile and it will give years of service. Providing that it was taken care of from the start so you have to know your product and where your buying. Over at apug.org 100's of us use them.</p>
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<p>I see people on here all the time looking for parts.... Look at the archives... I too would love to have one in working condition as I am doing e6 in a hand tank now... I was offered a free 40K mini lab recently.... too. I bet none of those parts fit.. Sorry for acting so sarcastic but thing is no one os making the base or the parts for it .. Water bath tank and I know about fixing things I drove a 71 Cadillac for many years. BTW it was the 472 CI</p>
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<p>Larry, that's very funny. I grew up in The Bronx and our parents couldn't afford to give any of us middle names. I'm pretty sure the Samigon and AP reels are the same. I have one of each. They look identical and are both marked Made In Spain. Althought I have many Paterson tanks and reels I don't really care much for plastic reels. Yankee sold a 35mm 1 reel tank and a 120 1 reel tank, both black plastic, which look like SS tanks. They came with SS reels. This way you get the leak resistance of the plastic tank with the ease of loading (if you like SS reels) of SS reels. Many years ago I had the maddening experience of trying to load a 220 roll of HP-5 (not HP-5+) into a Paterson reel. It just wouldn't go in more than a little. I eventually got it to load into a narrow spaced Brooks type SS 220 reel. Now I have several SS 220 wide spaced Nikor tank/reel sets but not as much 220 b&w film around. I think that if I could get ACROS in 220 and regular Tri-X in 220 I'd be happy. For some reason the film base of the 220 HP-5 seemed a lot thinner than that of PXP 220 or TXP 220. </p>
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<p>It sounds like they are a knockoff.</p>

<p>Personally I hate plastic reels. I started with stainless Kindermann back in '74 and have never had a reason to change. My 35mm Kinderman reels are <em>35 years old</em> and still look and load as though they were brand new. How many plastic reels will still be in perfect condition at 35 years old?</p>

<p>My advice is to chuck the plastic reels entirely, spend the extra money for stainless and never buy reels again.</p>

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<p>I bought my wife a tank with one of these reels thinking it would be really easy for her to load the film. She has had several rolls of film scratched loading them onto the reel as the film slides across the plastic while loading. The scratch would usually go across the last 12-15 shots of the roll. The reel seemed nice when I bought it but we have taken a loss on it and now use the standard patterson reels. The secret for loading film on the pattersons is the reel has to be bone dry and cut the leading corners. Any moisture from a previous roll will cause problems loading. Even the thinner Fuji 120 films are fairly easy to load. </p>
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<p>Seriously, get the Samigon reels. My daughter took photography last year in school and told me how easy they were to load. She had success on her very first try! </p>

<p>It makes loading 120 film much easier and 35mm is a piece of cake.</p>

<p>The large entry ramp on the Samigons makes loading almost <strong><a href="http://400tx.blogspot.com/2006/06/fool-proof-samigon-reel.html">FOOLPROOF</a>.</strong></p>

<p> </p>

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<p>I`m with Dan. The lesser parts rubbing the film the better to my taste.</p>

<p>Why some say that the Paterson reels stink? The only issue I have with them is that the small bearings use to get stucked after drying, and that`s why I move them with a fingernail before loading. Problem solved. I never cut edges and of course never use wet reels (!).</p>

<p>Jobo reels, although look like made with the same plastic (acetalic resin?), have indeed a very different quality (finish); by far I prefer the Paterson ones. Perhaps mine are older/different version.</p>

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<p>My method for loading 120 film onto SS reels is to pull the tape gently away from the backing paper and fold it over onto the other side of the film. That's the end I put into the clip. A few people I knew used to load plastic reels from the inside like SS reels. My first tank/reel set was the famous Yankee Clipper II with the agiataor/thermometer. I even developed film from my Minolta 16 with it. Eventually I dropped a radio on the tank and it shattered. A few years ago I bought an NOS Yankee Clipper II for old time's sake.</p>
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<p>I'm with James about the lead-in for 120 on plastic reels. I use an old Yankee tank with plastic reels and cut a piece of plastic from a 1 gal milk container. Place it in the entrance, start film, and then remove, works every time. Just pop it into the tank when all finished so I don't lose it. I also have a SS 120 reel but it seems a little harder to load. For 35mm all I use is my ancient Nikkor SS tanks and reels.</p>
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