500 CM is on its way; questions about magazines and viewfinders

<p>I started out deciding to buy simple 120 gear to replace a Rolleicord which got lost in storage. Read this forum and found reasons to prefer the Zeiss 80-planar over the old Xenars. Watched Rolleiflex Planar 2.8 auctions soar above $1300, and realized that nice sorta-small quiet Hasselblad 500CM outfits of relatively recent origin (1980s) are available for unthinkable prices, $1000 and down, with the latest version of the same lens. Bid on one, and amidst deafening silence, got it. Now for a few questions --<br>

How useful is it to have several film backs (for personal work, not weddings; when I want 100+ shots, I have digital)? I understand that 220 is rare, and the A24 is tricky to use with 120. So why do the A12 backs on EBay range all the way from $59 (beatup) to $400? What is the difference between "new style" and whatever else exists? Can you change film without needing to spread camera parts all over a table or a bench?<br>

With my Nikon F's (long ago) I always used the split-image focussing screen. There is one for the 500CM's, but it seems rare and pricy. Any comments on how well it works? How does its accuracy compare with eyeball contrast-detection on the standard screen, or with a real rangefinder? And there seems to be quite a range of prisms available, but I haven't found a good website that describes their sequence, field of view, magnification, etc. PM, PM3, PM5, PM51, ...? Would appreciate a link to clarify that part of the story. <br>

Looking forward to life without batteries,</p>

<p>scott</p>

<p>I have a 500C/M with an A-16 (6 x 4.5) back and Zeiss C T* 80mm and 150mm lenses. Unless you have a desire to print square pictures, the A-16 is the way to go. Plus you get 16 images instead of 12 on a 120 roll. You can also find an aftermarket screen with both a diagonal split image and microprism collar on Ebay. They are from Hong Kong, and before you screech in terror at the thought of putting a Chinese screen in your Blad, I have to tell you, I like it better than the Hassy one that came with my camera. It is brighter than the Hassy screen and the focus is dead on. I made a 6 x 4.5 mask on my screen by measuring out a proportionate (the screen is not really 6 x 6) area and laying down black electrical tape on the top and bottom edges. The fresnel rings are also not as prominent, which I found kind of distracting on my Hassy screen. These screens run around $35.</p>

<p>As for lenses, you can't go wrong with Zeiss C T* lenses. You can often find them on Ebay or Craig's list (I got a mint condition T* 80mm f/2.8 Planar for $250 on Craig's list).</p>

<p>HTH</p>

<p>And by the way, I like your choice for surname. Scott is of Scottish origin and means "strong one".</p>

<p>I purchased my 500 CM(used, a 1990 model) in 1997. It wasn't until 6 months ago that I bought another back. It is simple to change film with the back on the camera. Just remove the insert, change rolls and reinsert. Never needed a second back but couldn't pass up the deal on the second one so now I have two. I also print square so A-12's are my back of choice. <br /> I also upgraded my screen to the split image/microprism due to the difficulty I had using the standard screen. It is very accurate and I have no complaints. <br /> My preference in viewfinders is the standard waist level finder. It has the most magnification and suits my style of photography the best.<br /> The only batteries I need are in my Gossen Luna Pro SBC.</p>

<p>Be sure to check out <a href="http://www.keh.com">www.keh.com</a>. They have a lot of used Hasselblad gear, and their ratings and reputation are completely reliable.</p>

<p>Spare backs let you carry extra film for rapid reloading. More important, you can carry more than one type of film (e.g., color, slide and B&W) for casual use. You can't rewind roll film easily if you want to change film mid-roll.</p>

<p>The backs and inserts are matched at the factory. Really old backs have a peep hole for lining up the first frame of film - avoid them. A newer (e.g., A12) back with a matched insert runs $250 and up, depending on the quality.</p>

<p>Any prism fits any body. You need a PM5 or newer if you have a 203 or 205 (focal plane shutter) body. Spend your money on a good, hand-held light meter rather than a metered prism (and learn how to use it properly). Most people prefer 45 degree prisms, which can be used from eye level to ground level.</p>

<p>Split-prism focusing screens (one "s") don't work well, in my opinion, and get in the way of composition. Acute-matte screens are much brighter than the original cm screen, but are more transparent and harder to use for focusing. The trick is to focus your eye on any grid lines while focusing the lens. In a pinch, get a magnifier or use a waist-level finder. WLF's have the highest available magnification - 4.5x.</p>

<p>A frequent contributer, named de Bakker, has a web site with model and historical information. There are also compendiums and manuals you should consider.</p>

<p>I would get an A12 back, shooting square is what Hasselblad is all about, not having to turn the camera on its side for every other shot. If you are worried about the film cost of three more exposures.....well I don't know what to say.<br>

They make older non automatic backs that are cheaper, they have a peephole in the back to look at the numbers on the film . I have one but never use it, I have see them on ebay listed as A12 backs, so be careful. Ask the seller if they have the peephole before bidding. <br>

You need to get a true A12 back, you load the film ,advance to the arrow on the film, then just put the insert in and wind till it stops and shoot. Any used back you buy will probably need the light seals replaced, it is easy and cost about $20. If you send the back off for service figure $120-$200 depending on parts and who does the work.<br>

New backs were over $800 years ago, back in the early 1980s used backs were $400, I know I bought I new, 6 used....but now like you said I see them for $75 and up, but do plan on changing seals and a warranty if possible , from the seller.</p>

<p>Sorry Edward beat me in posting, so we have some of the same information.<br>

Like he said get a good light meter. When using the older CT* lens I use a meter with a EV output. its much simpler to me. Oh yes pick up a Ernst Wildi book (The Hasselblad Manual) before you buy any more equipment, it explans everything, so you will know hat you need/want before you buy it.</p>

<p>You need at least 2 backs. Having interchangeable backs is a big part of what these cameras offer, and they're pretty cheap.<br>

I never got used to the waist-level finder and was much happier when I got a NC-2 prism. It makes the camera bigger and heavier but at least now I can focus it. With the prism, I can live with the usual screen and don't need a split-image. </p>

<p>I have had the 500c, 500cm and now have the 501cm or whatever it's called. The 645 back is a good idea if you have a prism. It is almost unusable without one. These are great cameras, but they do jam and malfunction easily. Therefore a second back, lens and body are a very good idea if you shoot professionally. If not, it is not such a big problem. Forget the 220. That film is bound to be discontinued. I have used all the focusing screens, I think, and they are all acceptable. No you don't need to have a table to use the camera. </p>

<blockquote>

<p>And there seems to be quite a range of prisms available, but I haven't found a good website that describes their sequence, field of view, magnification, etc. PM, PM3, PM5, PM51, ...? Would appreciate a link to clarify that part of the story.</p>

</blockquote>

<p><a href="00UUac">Look here, for the metered versions.</a></p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Looking forward to life without batteries,</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Then forget about the metered prisms (i.e. the old CdS meter prism, and anything with an "E" in the type name).<br>

Of the PM-series, only the PM and PM5 have no meter.<br>

There were other unmetered 45 degree prisms too: the earlier NC2 and NC2-100, and the current PM45</p>

<p>But you will need a meter. And in anything but those auto-everything digital thingies, having to depend on a battery or two is not a problem.</p>

<p>I would subscribe to the view that it is handy to have a second back with you preloaded, should you ever just need to put a new film in place in a hurry. In addition if you want to switch between say 100 ISO and 400 ISO it's also useful.<br>

I have tried WLF and prism finder but since I bought the magnifying chimney finder with the dioptre correction built in I have seldom needed to use anything else.</p>

<p>Thanks, guys. That's a lot of useful input for just a few questions. While I am digesting it, a few thoughts. Yes, I am happy with 6x6, don't want to get into 6 x 4.5. I was never impressed with the Nikon FTN, so am considering only the non-metered prisms, and I think I will wait and do some tire kicking in camera stores. The Hong Kong split prism screen sounds like it could be worth trying. Reading the manual about all the precautions to follow to make sure that the pieces of a Hassy are not assembled in such a way that it completely sticks reminds me of an airplane that I once flew which had four fuel tanks and only one engine.<br>

Any hints on how to avoid buying a film back which costs more to make light-tight and useable than it cost to purchase?<br>

Batteries -- yeah, I travel with at least four chargers for other gear. My light meters are a Gossen SuperPilot, for which a local camera store was able to find me its long-outlawed battery, and a Ricoh GR-D2. But I've managed without any meters in the past. I sent my son off to "film photography" class last summer with our M2. His instructor was horrified, and told him he couldn't take pictures without an A-priority setting. So we walked around outside and inside with the GR-D2 and the M2, and calibrated his eyes for Tri-X. It worked.<br>

I also find KEH a great information source, although I have never bought from them. They look like a lower risk source of some of the accessories than buying from a rapid-reseller on EBay.<br>

and ScottM, Kirkpatrick is indeed an honored Scots name see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roger_de_Kirkpatrick, where my ancestor got knighted for confirming a kill. There's even a town of Kirkpatrick, near the border, but when I was there a few years back, it shared a postoffice with Fleming, had about a dozen houses, and the only pub had closed. <br>

see http://www.pbase.com/skirkp/image/33442490<br>

The name Scott is English.</p>

 

<p>Hi, Scott, </p>

<p>I found the waist-level finder difficult to use due to the difference in viewing angle: what I saw at eye level was not the same as what the finder "saw." A prism finder solved that problem.</p>

<p>Several film backs come in handy. Now that I'm shooting b&w, again, I carry two loaded backs, one for color, one for b&w. I scotch-taped small labels on them (120-B and 120-C) both to remind me which I was shooting but also so that if one developed a problem, I'd know which one. Since I log every shot I take, I jot down the magazine I used, as well.</p>

<p>As for the focusing screen, I'm finding that the depth-of-field marks on the Zeiss lenses are spot on. Although the image on the focusing screen may not look in focus, if the marks indicate that it is, I go with the marks for exact focusing, especially for close-ups (not macro). It's not a quick method of focusing but it's sure accurate. </p>

<p>The Hasselblad knob meter works pretty well for me and the kinds of shots I take, mostly outdoor landscapes.</p>

<p>Congratulations on your purchase, the Hasselblad is a great camera! Have fun.</p>

<p>Scott Murphy comments: You can also find an aftermarket screen with both a diagonal split image and microprism collar on Ebay. They are from Hong Kong, and before you screech in terror at the thought of putting a Chinese screen in your Blad, I have to tell you, I like it better than the Hassy one that came with my camera.</p>

<p>I found suppliers with EBay stores offering what looks like a 45 degree split image screen at prices ranging from $40 to 38 GBP to 41 EUR, shipping included. Some show the bare screen, some show it with a thin metal frame. I assume I need the frame to drop it into a 500 C/M, but does every supplier ship the frame by default. I suspect there is a single source for the screens. Does anyone recommend a particular shipper?</p>

<p>scott</p>

<p>I have a PME and multiple A12 backs. </p>

<p>Sometimes two for color and two for black & white all the same speed [iSO 400]. But now that I have a SWC which can use much slower shutter speeds handheld, I have two for color [iSO 100 and 400] and two for black & white [iSO 100 and 400].</p>

<p>Steve</p>

<p>Looking on EBay for prism finders, I can see that PM5 viewfinders are going for much more than NC2 finders, even though they should be doing the same job. Is there a difference in brightness? Also there seem to be Kiev88 equivalents at still lower prices of both types of finders. All seem to be 3x magnification.<br>

Can anyone tell me the practical differences between the four choices of finder for use on a 500 c/m?<br>

scott</p>

<p>The NC-2 does the job equally well as the PM5.<br />Equally bright, the same magnification, and same eyepoint.</p>

<p>The only functional difference between the two is that the NC-2 cannot be used when there is a Polaroid back behind your camer (the PM5 can), and that the PM5 has a cold shoe on top.</p>

<p>And should you need it, the NC-2 takes additional diopter correction lenses. If you can't find the original ones, you can have an optician order one and cut it to size for you for less money than the originals ones went for.<br />With the PM5, you need to change the entire eyepiece for one with the proper correction. These eyepieces are even harder to find than the correction lenses. (You could also remove the lens in the eyepiece and change it for one adjusted to your eyesight. An optician will be able to provide the lens).<br />The earlier version, the PM (same appearance, same optics as the PM5, but not usable on 200-series cameras), takes the same lenses the NC-2 does, so is easier.</p>

<p>I don't know about the Kiev finders.</p>