larrydressler Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 <p>Jim you want me to clean up that link?</p> <p>Try here<br> <a href="http://www.steveanchell.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=109&func=view&catid=6&id=49">http://www.steveanchell.com/index.php?option=com_kunena&Itemid=109&func=view&catid=6&id=49</a></p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim_appleyard Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 <p>Thanks Larry, don't know what happened.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave_wilson1 Posted August 23, 2009 Share Posted August 23, 2009 <p>I only use HC-110 also for both films actually. Early on an associate of mine did a very extensive exacting test of T-MAX and he showed me how temperature sensitive it was and we started working only in JOBO machines. Now I have nothing but my steel tanks and running water and I still feel I'm getting very good results, maybe not a scritical as when I could tweak the machine but still very good. I don't care for TMAX developer and never use it. No great info from me here, just wanted to share my thoughts.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anthony_ilardi Posted August 24, 2009 Share Posted August 24, 2009 <p>For many years, I shot Tri-X, developing in D-76, HC-110 and Microdol-X, as the spirit moved me. Recently, I have returned to B&W and have been using TMY-2 developed in TMax 1:4. Today I scan. I have shot a lot of the TMax at 1600 in "available darkness." It responds extremely well, much better, I think, than Tri-X, which seems to block up a lot more when pushed. TMax is not bad at 400 either. The look is a little different from my old negs, but those were not taken with modern scanning in mind either, although I have great success scanning negatives developed in HC-110 or D-76; less so with those developed in Microdol. In the end, TMax and Tri-X are different tools, but both good. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mauro_franic Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 <p>I shoot TMAX 100 and 400 extensively. Let me clarify some points:</p> <p>- The new TMAX 400 has coarser grain then TMAX 100.<br> - They are both equally resolving.<br> - TMAX 100 has more latitude on the highlights.<br> - TMAX 400 has a very -very- attractive tonal response.<br> - Neither is difficult to develop. Not sure how people make this up.<br> - The curves on both are highly dependent on the developer. TMAX Dev is more linear. XTOL provides an S curve with more contrasty midtones.<br> - Both are overall fantastic.</p> <p>I do not shoot TRI-X any longer. For no particular reason other than every time I'm about to load the camera I always pick TMAX.</p> <p>I shoot 120mm with TMAX 100 only and 35mm with both TMAX 100 and -more so- TMAX 400. I just gravitated that way.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mauro_franic Posted August 26, 2009 Share Posted August 26, 2009 <p>Some TMAX to share:<br> http://shutterclick.smugmug.com/People/People-Spaces/3639679_XzEoL#582602111_6oiPk-X3-LB<br> http://shutterclick.smugmug.com/Landscapes/Places/3639504_X4XUj#582265158_VfC3C-X2-LB<br> http://shutterclick.smugmug.com/Landscapes/Places/3639504_X4XUj#548422957_dWFyh-XL-LB<br> http://shutterclick.smugmug.com/Photography/Beach/8072306_QeWRb#608908003_mSnJ8-X3-LB<br> http://shutterclick.smugmug.com/Photography/Beach/8072306_QeWRb#525850046_GYyM6-X3-LB<br> http://shutterclick.smugmug.com/Photography/Beach/8072306_QeWRb#526048069_KAsR3-X2-LB<br> http://shutterclick.smugmug.com/Photography/Beach/8072306_QeWRb#525850601_ansHS-XL-LB<br> http://shutterclick.smugmug.com/Photography/New-TMX-400/7431324_CJohQ#479056402_r5kS4-X3-LB</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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