50mm M 2.0

<p> I thought I would give the M50 2.0 another go around so I took Christy out and shot a few in this little alley we came across. this is what I came up with. I did use flash on a couple along with some sun, it was coming in and out from behind the clouds. I used a couple of PP ideas that javier gave me to do some touch up. I am starting to like B&W more than color on most of what I shoot. comments. The 50 2.0 was a joy to use. I have just ordered me a 50mm F 1.7</p><div></div>

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<p>I am still woking on getting more light on the subject for eyes. I am using on board flash but think I might buy a larger one to help aid in this problem. any suggestions on that</p>

<p>Accessory flash has a lot of benefits over the built-in flash. One problem you might have with the built-in flash combined with Pentax-M lenses is that it will always fire full power. One place this shows up is in the shadows behind your subject in 'christy 3'. In #1,these shadows are particularly dark, and I'd say a little less flash and more ambient, preserving some texture and depth would probably have been a good thing. Hopefully your new 50/1.7 is Pentax-A or newer to allow segmented metering and P-TTL flash.</p>

<p>With an accessory flash you at least have the option of using auto flash or manual flash. For my taste, this is probably the best of the three from a post-processing point of view. Skin detail in #1 and #2 has been obliterated, leaving the subject looking kind of waxy.</p>

<p>I agree on the skin tone in #2 it is waxy. that was due to flash I believe. I probably didn't help it in PP. I do like 1 and 3 the best.</p>

<p>Jordon, while number three looks ok, the first two really look soft to me. Could be my glasses though.</p>

<p>Javier,<br>

It's not your glasses. She's soft, almost to the point of being out of focus, but I have the feeling it's a bit of overeager PP work.<br>

Howard</p>

<p>I really like your images ; )<br>

The Pentax M 50mm f2 is probably the best bang for your buck lens EVER made.</p>

<p>Ray</p>

<p>As far as Pentax 50mm lenses go, I have the M50F/1.4 and the M50F/2.0...BUT i keep hearing that the one to have is the M50F/1.7...Those that have this, swear up and down by this lens.</p>

<p>Jordan,<br>

You seem to be focusing in front of where you should be focusing and you have a really narrow depth of field. What aperture were you shooting at?<br>

Looking at #1, the stitches on her closest blouse strap are in focus but not her face or her eyes:<br>

#2 Same thing<br>

#3 Her closer arm is not in focus, the fabric of her blouse, on the side facing us, is , her face and hair are not.<br>

You have a beautiful model and the posing is really good although I have the feeling she has a great smile that I wouldn't mind seeing. I'm not a fan of the blank model look.<br>

Howard</p>

 

<p>I have an M 50/1.7, it is very nice especially on film. A step up from the 50/2, which is nice in its own right. I just got an F 50/1.7, and have been liking that a lot too - AF is awfully convenient. I sold my A 50/1.7 in favor of an A 50/1.4, but haven't warmed to the latter lens.</p>

<p>These are interesting photos, Jordan. I think the same shots, but with a lens that can be set to "A" and the flash compensation dialed back to -1.5 EV or so will be even better. I like the processing effects, kind of a "dirty glamour" that seems to be what you are aiming for.</p>

<p>#2 seems like a lot of blurring was done on the face..</p>

<p>I think the soft effect is quite nice, if that is what you're after. Some people spend a lot of $$ for a soft-focus lens to get a similar effect.</p>

<p>I am just trying everything right now to see what is what. I like it all and want to see what I can do and find that works. It is so much fun and this girl and my wife make it even better cause what ever I say they r up for. within reason of course.</p>

<p>Jordon,<br>

Get yourself and accessory flash that you can use in MANUAL mode. Get the kind that tilts and swivels (you need both). Next, go to the local art store and pick up a piece of white foam core board 24 X 36. Mount camera on tripod. Meter for the ambient light and set camera accordingly. Put flash on lowest power setting and rotate the flash head so it is angled back (angled not straight back) towards you NOT your subject. Now grab your foam core board and hold it so the light will bounce back towards your model. The result will be a VERY pleasing subtle fill light that is very soft (softbox like).<br>

By doing this, you will be converting a VERY small light source (flash head size 1.5 X 3in) into a farly large source (24X36in) and thus gives you a soft look. Look at Christy 3 again. The shadow next to the face makes it look like a double exposure almost. Look further down by her arm and breast - looks like a painted outline. Both of these are due to the small lightsource of on camera flash. Smaller the lightsource = harsher the shadows. Bigger the lightsource = No harsh shadows (hard edge).<br>

BTW, forget all the retouching stuff for now. LEARN how to get a good shot IN-CAMERA first. If you don't, you will always be trying to make up for deficiencies in photoshop and your pictures will never be to your full potential. Once you've learned, then you can use photoshop to enhance your good pictures and make them even better.</p>

<p>also, keep this in mind....when ever someone seems to get a new photoshop trick (especially beginners) they tend to over do it and it looks fake. it takes a while to figure out...(its kind of like when film guys did their first sepia- i know i went bananas with it) when you are smoothing out skin, it is real easy to make it look fake and waxy - if you have lightroom, you might like the adjustment brush with low clarity - it does a good job of correcting without this overdone look - and if you make a good mask, it is easy to adjust later. i would recommend starting with the effect light and increasing it slowly as opposed to starting heavy and reducing it...i find it easier to gauge how much I want that way - </p>

<p>also, listen to these guys about flash - they speak the truth.</p>

<p>also, with lightroom and the adjustment brush, it is easy to give a touch of extra pop to the eyes (end teeth) with a little brightness and sharpening and perhaps clarity - again go easy or you'll end up with eyes that look like those of a tiger on an velvet poster.</p>

<p>finally, dont get to hung up on which lens you use - 50 2.0 vs 50 1.7...dudes like toys, no doubt - but it isnt really going to make a difference in your photography.<br>

and seriously finally, the search tool is your friend on this site. alot of your questions have been answered in detail. this site has been a great source of info for me </p>