what is the best mode for shooting wedding

<p>OK--that makes sense. Must only be available on the 50D and 5D II. I know it isn't on the 40D down and original 5D. It's a good thing they did that. Maybe now I can stop telling people not to use AV with flash indoors at their first wedding.</p>

<p>Flash sync in Av mode can be fixed at max sync all the way back to at least the 20D. Even my old EOS 5 from the mid 90s could do this (1/200).</p>

<p>Yes, that is true--I was talking about having the ability to select 1/60th or 1/125th in AV mode.</p>

<p>On my 50D, the 1/60-1/250 option means the camera automatically chooses a shutter speed in that range based on ambient lighting. You can't specifically choose 1/60 or 1/125.</p>

<p>OK--that's still better than not having that option to begin with, which is what you have on the 40D downward. In AV mode (with the flash on), you can choose to have the camera set the shutter speed according to the ambient light, or you can choose for it to use the sync maximum--that's it. This is why I've been telling beginners not to use AV with the flash on, inside or in dim light. For some reason, beginners to intermmediate photographers want to use AV all the time, and this lack of choice fouls them up, particularly when it comes to shooting the processional/recessional at weddings. Choosing the sync max gets you nothing but black backgrounds at receptions, too, so that's no good. At least with a shutter speed between 1/60th and 1/125th, with a fairly high ISO and wide-ish aperture, you stand a chance of getting SOME ambient/background to register in the exposure, and you don't get mush from subject motion/handholding shake (usually).</p>

<p>For 1/60-1/125 with flash, I think you should just use M and leave the Av flash sync alone (default). That way you can still have high-speed sync (to 1/8000 on my 50D) in Av mode without changing any other settings.</p>

<p>I have a feeling Joxter's head may be spinning at this point.</p>

<p>In AV mode on the 40D it may claim to set the shutter speed for ambient light but it really sets it for the flash. For example, you can set the exposure in AV at 2.8 and the camera selects 60 for the shutter. Then turn on the flash and watch the shutter jump to 125. It does the same thing in TV mode with the aperture value.</p>

<p>What they really need is a mode that combines Manual and TV or AV. Let me set the shutter, the camera sets the aperture and then the flash behaves the same way it does in manual mode. With that you could set whichever value you pefer and the camera would set the other value. Then you could fire away with the flash at low power for fill. Of course, that would be too easy.... :)</p>

<p>Personally, I don't understand why the flash affects the values at all in AV and TV. If you want the camera to adjust for the flash you have Auto and Program. Why not let the flash adjust for the camera in AV and TV the way it does in Manual?</p>

<p>Booray--you sure the shutter speed jumps that much? I believe you are talking about NEVEC, which is present in some Canon cameras. Usually the amount of underexposure (to make room for flash) is not as much as a stop, and even if it were, it isn't enough to count on freezing subject motion entirely, as in calculated shutter drag.</p>

<p>As far as Joxter is concerned, I would still use Program mode and ease into learning all about the ins and outs of ETTL. The photonotes.org/eosflash article is a good place, but you need to read it several times before things begin to sink in.</p>

<p>John--we are talking about mostly dim conditions--the opposite of needing extremely fast shutters speeds and hence, high speed sync. Of course, if one goes from dim conditions to bright conditions, one can always change the custom function and turn on HSS. I see your point about not needing to change the setting, but IF one uses AV inside with flash, the setting that uses speeds between 1/60th and 1/125th is still the best. Again, I still say use Program. With a fairly fast lens, high ISO (ISO 800, for instance) and an aperture of about f4, Program usually sets 1/60th.</p>

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<p>Program mode.</p>

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<p>I agree. Program Mode is the answer for ANYONE who has to ask what mode to use. Also, the OP is going to have their hands full shooting their first wedding. Let the camera make the decisions. Some photos might come out a little bit light or dark, but there won't be any irretrievable exposure disasters.</p>

<p>Don't even THINK ABOUT using manual mode.</p>

 

<p>Best mode is to get another photographer to shoot it for you. If you have to ask this question you should not shoot a wedding.</p>

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<p>Paul-<br /> You forgot Lens cap off...turn camera on.<br /> ; )</p>

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<p>I disagree. Lens cap on, camera off, and head straight for the champagne.</p>

<p>I have held back posting but I notice the OP has disappeared and not address the comments that have since been raised.</p>

<p>I can only say and hope that he's a second shooter. If not, there is a bride somewhere that will be in tears and a photographer that will be after the court ruling.</p>

<p>There is no 'magic bullet' setting. Weddings can feature a wide array of lighting challenges, so you must have fairly advanced working knowledge of your camera and flash before you take on this kind of work.</p>

<p>>> doesn't it seem rather incomprehensible that a person would go out and purchase the signature cameras and lenses for fast wedding work, yet not know what setting to use? >><br /> <br /> Sure does, but nowadays what with the easy access to cameras and imaging software, every one fancies themselves a photographer. Even my cell phone thinks it can take pictures.<br /> <br /> I can't understand taking on the responsibility of covering a wedding assignment without even knowing basics, though. Isn't that like getting behind the wheel of a car without knowing what gear to put it in?<br /> <br /> But let's just thank our lucky stars that you can't buy scalpels at Best Buy, or people would be cutting each other up, maiming them horribly and tragically, practicing surgery. As it is with photography, they only cut heads off.<br /></p>

<p>MANUAL???? That has to be a joke answer, even more of a joke than the original question!<br>

If by any chance the question is sincere.....</p>

<p>- Manual will be a disaster.<br>

- Manual with a handheld meter???? Are you kidding??? Perhaps he should transport himself to the event in a horsedrawn wagon......<br>

- Set the camera to auto and snap as much as you can. You will likely get a lot of great pictures and may even make the client happy. May be heresy, but guess what, today's totl cameras can make even the inexperienced look <em><strong>something like</strong> </em> pros, at least on some % of shots, so if he shoots enough..... I know that is annoying to some whose experience no longer counts for as much as it used to, but it is the truth. Technology has , <strong><em>to some arguable extent</em> </strong> , leveled the playing field. Deal with it.<br>

- Good luck. You may need it. Weddings are not easy to capture in a number of ways that technology will not solve.</p>

 

<p>Nadine -- I checked the shutter jump before I posted just to be sure and it jumped from 60 to 125 when I turned the flash on. After posting I checked it again with a brighter subject and higher speed and it jumped from 250 to 320. There's no doubt that this is NEVEC but still I wish we could disable it. </p>

<p>What I've been experimenting with is dialing the exposure to +1 to get the settings back to normal and then dialing down my flash for fill...</p>

<p>RAW. No JPEGs, all RAW and spend a nice weekend postprocessing.<br>

Do not shoot JPGs as you need to tweak white balance all the time to keep the dress of the bride white.</p>

<p>I'm not too familiar with Canon gear, but use the best camera (=best image quality) with the 24-70, it will the busy camera.</p>

<p>My Choices :<br>

1. : Everything in 'M' mode.<br>

2: 'A'<br>

3: 'S'<br>

...<br>

...<br>

Last : 'Auto'</p>

<p>"If you don't know what you're doing, manual could prove a real disaster."<br>

This should say, if you don't know what you are doing <strong>any</strong> of your settings could prove a real disaster! <br>

Weddings are one of the most difficult photographic efforts a person can attempt. You must be a portrait, still, fashion, PJ, and who knows what else, <strong>expert</strong>. You must know lighting inside and out. You must know what every setting on your equipment will produce in a given scenario. There are very few moments in a wedding day that you have any time to experiment.<br>

You have probably heard the usual comments about not doing it until you are ready and completely confident, but hey, everyone has to start somewhere. The best advice you could get is to assist a really experienced wedding pro for a while so you can build your confidence and learn for yourself which mode is best. For every question there are a million answers. You need to find out for yourself what settings will give you the images you are looking for.<br>

If you don't know what images you are looking for, then weddings may be too complex for you in your photographic evolution. Yes, there are beginners in wedding photography, but the risk you take as the primary shooter with little or no experience is very high.<br>

You will have one chance - only one - to capture the important moments of the wedding. Let's just say you are taking a final exam in order to graduate a course. If you have four hours to take the test and you end up skipping 20% of the questions - 30%? - 40%? Will you pass? <br>

You must get it right. So I encourage you to practice every single setting in every light and include shadows, glare, darker, and lighter situations so you know <strong>exactly </strong>when to change a setting and how to work with your cameras and flashes. You will need to have backup for your flashes as well as your cameras. If you have the two cameras great, you may get by ok. But you also need to consider that your flash may have problems too.<br>

Bring a lot of CF cards. Shoot a lot. If you have to bracket your exposures, do it. Stay calm and think carefully before each very special moment - bride entrance, kiss, first dance, etc. so you are sure your setting will get the shot. Yes "P" mode does help in many cases, especially with TTL flash. You may not be able to get really artistic images but you need to concentrate on getting the "safe" shots just to cover your rear. Once you get more confidence in your settings, you can branch out into trying more ambitious approaches.<br>

As Wouter said - shoot RAW! You can fix a lot of exposure issues that otherwise would be losses if you shoot RAW, but realize it is not the cure-all for every bad image. It is more important to try and get it right in camera before you start to process.<br>

BTW, what did you promise the clients? Are they expecting high level professional images or entry level images? Are they looking for artistic creativity or just a record of the event?<br>

It just occured to me that lots of people ask the "beginner" questions on forums and they get all kinds of answers, but it is probably important to understand what the client is expecting in order to give better advice.<br>

Best of luck! hope something I said makes sense to you.<br>

Lou</p>

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<p>Booray--I tested your settings in AV, and my 40D's shutter speed didn't jump when I turned the flash on. I'm sure it has to do with the ambient light level at the time. I am a bit confused--if you don't like what NEVEC does, why not just use manual camera mode? As far as underexposing a bit when there is flash involved--that makes a lot of sense, as light is additive. When you are basically using an EV for the ambient light (what AV does), you 'should' underexpose it slightly when you deliberately add flash (no matter how small) or you will be overexposing your subject. When I do use AV, I am usually minus compensating, generally, the ambient exposure and minus compensating the flash too.</p>

<p>Actually, Booray, it could be the combination of camera and flash. What flash were you using? I was using my old 380EX.</p>

<p>I'm using a 580 EXII.<br>

You're right, of course. I was under the impression that, in manual mode, the flash operated differently than in the other modes in the way it set it's power output in relation to the exposure settings. After re-reading the manual about a dozen times and taking about one hundred pictures I'm convinced I was wrong.</p>

<p>It isn't a matter of right or wrong. It could very well be the flash and camera combo acts differently, as witnessed above. I didn't know that the 50D added that setting for the shutter speed. Since the 380EX is really, really, old, who knows what it does or doesn't do with a newer camera model. Same for the 580EXII--I'm sure there are settings on it that are different. I was just curious, and like to know these things, for future reference.</p>

<p>Before you tell someone they shouldn't be shooting a wedding, consider that a lot of people can't afford to pay a lot for a photographer. When I first got married way back when, we didn't have much money, and my father-in-law doubled as the photographer. They weren't great pictures, but no one was crying about it later.</p>