hasselblad random light leaks 150mm lens..

<p>alright guys can you help me evaluate this light leak problem i'm having with my hasselblad so the first 6 or more rolls through my 500cm with 60mm lens and two different A12 backs were perfectly fine, no light leaks at all however, i bought a 150mm f4 lens off ebay and the light leaks started to roll in with both of my backs it doesnt seem like the common dark slide leak as they are normally on the left side of the frame, right? here are some not so bad examples (didn't scan the bad ones yet) <img src="http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w191/Crisfoto/5-30-09-moisty-pool-drain.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="700" /><br>

provia 100f 150mm lens </p>

<p><img src="http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w191/Crisfoto/5-30-09-justin-kiazer-lookback.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="700" /> <br>

same provia 100f 150mm lens and that leak occured on all 3 shots i took consecutively, notice the sliver at the top too <br>

there were two outdoor B&W shots that overpowered almost all of the right side of the frame except for a sliver touching the border where it's properly exposed </p>

<p><img src="http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w191/Crisfoto/5-18-09-brandon-table-wide.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="700" /> <br>

superia 100: and then i noticed this one with my 60mm lens wich might lead me away from the lens theory? </p>

<p><br /></p>

do i just need to replace the seals in the back(s)<br />or could it possibly be the lens?<br />or could the film have been a little loose on the spools and i loaded it in somewhat bright light?

maybe processing (i use walmart sendout to fuji labs)?? <br /><br />i'm getting leaks in about 4 shots per roll in the last few rolls at least, i'll be picking up some freshly developed stuff soon<br /><br />please help me out guys, these leaks are really getting me down <img src="http://forums.skateperception.com/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif" border="0" alt="unsure.gif" /> <br /><br />thank's alot<br />-chris<br />

<p>Which four shot on the roll have the issue? Not loading in subdued light with a loose roll can cause issues. You cannot get a light leak on film from the lens. You can however, get flare from not using a shade or exposing an image with a light source in, on or just on the edge of the frame</p>

<p>Light leaks from a lens are highly unlikely.<br />This looks more like problems with loading the film or processing.</p>

<p>The first looks most like something in front of the lens when taking the picture, I can't now come up with other explanations.<br>

The second one is flare (the spot near the upper right corner); it happens easily with this lens and off-axis light sources. Use a hood, compose carefully (nice shot, BTW).<br>

Last one could be flare or a light leak in the back.<br>

You can easily test light leaks of the dark slide insertion slot. Just take out the darkslide, expose the slot to full sun for some 20 seconds (or similar strong light) and expose the frame with the lens cap on. If you have a light leak, the frame is not black. Of course if your body or back have more exotic leaks than this one, they should also show up, but diagnosing becomes more difficult.</p>

<p>I agree with Oskar.<br>

The first one looks like something in front of the lens.<br>

The second one is flare.<br>

And the third one also is flare.</p>

<p>I'm with Oskar and Q. G. on this one. The 150 Sonnar has its front lens element very near the edge of the barrel making it particularly susceptible to off-axis lens flare. In contrast the 80 mm Planar has its front element deeply recessed.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>"Which four shot on the roll have the issue? Not loading in subdued light with a loose roll can cause issues. You cannot get a light leak on film from the lens"</p>

</blockquote>

<p>seems to be more towards the end of the roll, however it can very, i'm going to pick up some more rolls tomorrow and see if they show these leaks or flares in them<br>

how dark do you guys load your film? i usually just do it in a room with dimmed lights or in the shade if i have to <br>

should it be pitch black?<br>

<br /></p>

<blockquote>

<p>The second one is flare (the spot near the upper right corner); it happens easily with this lens and off-axis light sources. Use a hood, compose carefully (nice shot, BTW).</p>

</blockquote>

<p>so in the second one if its just a flare from maybe the light up above why is there a perfect strip across the top of the frame?<br>

also i usally use the hood that the 150mm came with it's only about an inch or two long though<br>

i think i should have mentioned that in almost all of my shot's i use 2 or 3 off camera flashes, so maybe they are flaring in like you guys said</p>

<p>thanks for the help guys, and any other suggestions, comments would be appreciated. </p>

<p>Doesn't need to be very dark, no. As long as it is not in direct sunlight, it wil be o.k. You should, of course, take care to keep roll from unwinding even a bit, since light will spill along the edges.</p>

<p>I don't think that any of the things you have shown us was caused during loading or unloading.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>

 

 

<p >The 150 Sonnar has its front lens element very near the edge of the barrel making it particularly susceptible to off-axis lens flare. In contrast the 80 mm Planar has its front element deeply recessed.</p>

 

 

</p>

</blockquote>

<p >i really like the focal length of my 150 but if i'm going to be getting lens flares runing shots even at night i don't know if its worth shooting with, maybe i'll try the 80 out</p>

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<p>Make sure you have the proper lens hood for that lens. The lens hood that I have for my CF 150 Sonnar is marked for lenses with focal length from 100 to 250 mm and has a 60 mm bayonet mount. The lens is a fantastic piece of glass and produces images better than any other lens of comparable focal length in the square format. The hood is very effective in preventing flare caused by light glancing off the front element. A shorter lens hood will not be nearly as effective. Lens hood for the shorter 50mm and 60 mm distagons are equally important for the same reason. Both these optics also have the front element close to the end of the lens barrel.</p>

<p>thanks for pointing that out frank, i have this one <br /> <a href="http://s176.photobucket.com/albums/w191/Crisfoto/?action=view&current=7462_9224_shutterblade_06162009-114.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i176.photobucket.com/albums/w191/Crisfoto/7462_9224_shutterblade_06162009-114.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" /></a><br /><br /> which has an 80 written on it<br />sounds like i need one of <a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/For-Hasselblad-B60-CF-CFI-CB-100-250mm-Lens-Hood_W0QQitemZ370210611841QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLens_Accessories?hash=item563245a281&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A1%7C66%3A2%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50">these</a> which looks considerably longer</p>

<p><br /><br /></p>

<p>Not sure what you mean with the strip, but seems like an internal reflection of the light (flare). A light leak in the back isn't that even.<br>

Your hood is a B50 for the 80. Apprently you have a 150 C lens, which means that you need the B50 hood for the 150 (the one you linked is for B60 lenses, i.e. CF and later). The good part is that even a genuine B50 150 hood is quite cheap second hand.<br>

If you plan to shoot a lot in conditions like these, you might want to consider the proshade bellows hood. It's bigger, but then you can adjust it for a tighter fit. I have gotten flare like that even with the 150 hood, so it's not infallible. Of course if you're a DIY type, you can extend the 150 hood to provide a very tight cutoff. Don't worry! put in 2 hours of effort on this and you'll save a lot of hassle in the long run.</p>

For some reason Hasselblad decided to offer only one hood for all lenses from 100 till 250 mm.

This means the shorter lenses are less well protected against unwanted back light.

The same hood also serves the 250 lens with a much smaller aov.

 

It pays to use a compendium or professional lens shade for these kind of shots with a 150 lens.

Do not forget the pro shade also needs the mask for the 120-135-150 lenses to do any good.

The mask is often forgotten by users of S/H pro shades as they are seldom supplied with the shade.<div></div>