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5d2 - No need for fast lenses?


tdigi

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<p>One thing I have noticed with the 5DII is that the invisible AF points can be a problem for portrits at a very wide apertures. I have learn't to turn them off most of the time. I think what happens is that you focus the center AF point on the eye for example but the camera decides to use one of the invisible Af points and is actually focused more on the nose or ear. This is never obvious and the reveiw will show the cenetr AF point as the one selected. At first I thought it was the camera as my film bodies (1Vs and 1NRS) did not show the same problem. However, switching of the Af assist points solves the problem so I assume they are the cause.</p>
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<p>Phillip I am going to give that a try, whats the point of the invisible AF points? I use the center most always as well.</p>

<p>I have practiced a bit with wide apertures and I am getting a bit better. I find when I get it right its very good</p>

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<p>I use them for moving targets when I shoot in AI Servo mode as they definately seem to help. Before you mess with adjusting the lens using micro focus I would do turn off the AF assist points and see if that solves your problem. Very wide aperture lenses are difficult for the camera to focus as the DOF is so small. I bought the 85 F1.8 over the 85 F1.2 as the F1.2 (the first version) was really slow to focus. Since the FD 85 F1.2 is still one of my favourite lenses I may try the Mark II 85 F1.2 as this is supposed to be better. My 50 F1.4 is also fairly slow to focus.</p>
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<p>>Peter Wang: "The largest acceptable circle of confusion is a function of how much one intends to enlarge the image for viewing."<br>

Not really, it depends on the distance at which you intend to view your print. The usual CoC (0,03 mm for FF) is based on a viewing distance equivalent to the diagonal of the print for any enlargement and any resolution. That's the one I use when I intend to control DoF.<br>

When I intend to crop or have maximum DoF, I use a 2 pixels CoC.</p>

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<p>Let me chime in..<br>

I also have focussing difficulties with my 5DII. I recently shot a wedding, and made many portraits. I'm sure i focussed on the eye's. But the shots come out like if the focus is about a yard before the persons. Not even on the nose, or arms.. )<br>

I used a 28-80 2.8 L mostly on the 5DII. I have a lot of experience with EOS5 and EOS3 with the same lens. (Was using the 40D with the 70-200 2.8 IS , no problems there..)<br>

If so many people have problems with focussing on the 5dII , i think canon has a problem....<br>

It's just doing different things than it indicates.</p>

<p> </p>

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<p>I use both the cheapy 50 1.8 and the 85 1.2 L and find with both of them I need to use manual focus when shooting wide open. The DOF can be so narrow that I can only be sure my focus is dead on by eyeing it, hitting a focus point and manually turning the focus dial until I get a red light / focus confirmation at the focus point and the target where I want it to be the sharpest. If I am using autofocus I don't feel comfortable the camera is focused at the item i want to bring attention to. The 85 1.2 is difficult to focus wide open espeacially in low light, but when you get it right I have not seen any other lens which compares.</p>
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<p>I don't think its a focusing issue or problem with the 5d2. I have gotten many sharp photos with it, I think it just makes a wide aperture that much more difficult to get correct. IMO To many people expect a good camera to make them a good photographer. </p>
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<p>Tommy... I cannot fathom why you should have focusing problems with the 5dII, but then I have a 5d and 50d. I agree about the better low light performance with the bigger sensors on the 5d. I suspect the DOF appears greater on the 5D since the 50mm is a standard lens on the 5D and a mild tele on the 50d. We used to say that the diagonal on the film represented the standard lens. For available light I must admit I like the shots that I get with the 35mm f1.4 on the 5d. I wonder if you have tried setting the camera to use only the center focus on eyes, hold and reframe and shoot. To me shooting with L lenses on the 50d is sort of like shooting with view cameras where we could shift and still stay within the lens.<br>

Jeff</p>

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<p>Jeff, thats pretty much how I focus. I am getting a better feel for the 5d2. I posted this question not really as a problem but sort of a positive. Most often I can shoot at ISO 1600 with F4 - 5.6 and still have a very nice background blur where in the past I needed to be a 2.2. Obviously you can carry a much lighter lens if all you need is F4. Got me wanting a 17-40 over a wider prime for my next purchase :-}</p>
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