Which of these best for Acros 100

<p>Not prepared to develop my own Acros, yet.<br /> Will use for night shots, high contrast situations as well as daytime architecture and street.<br>

Local lab in New York City offers to develop for $10 per roll.<br /> Expensive, yes, but here it's about the going rate here.<br>

They offer the following developers:<br>

Film prices include special processing: T Max, Microphen, Microdol, Acufine, Rodinal.<br>

Which offer to keep grain contained and give me a nice, wide tonal range?<br /> Should I consider one over another depending on the contrast and lighting on the roll?<br>

Thanks, Bob</p>

<p>It's interesting that your NYC lab doesn't offer XTOL, the most environmentally friendly developer on the planet. You didn't specify whether you're talking about 35mm rolls or 120 rolls. Rodinal and Acros, from posts I've read, seem to do pretty well together. The only other developer on your lab's list I've used is the RS version of TMax. Given that you're dealing with high contrast situations, you'll probably want (if the lab will do it) a diluted version of the developer, and, with some experimentation, about a 20% development reduction to compensate for the contrast. Your ultimate solution is personal testing and a consistent approach to metering, exposure and development (even if a lab is processing). Test, test, test, and keep good notes on what works and what doesn't.</p>

<p>I've processed Acros in Rodinal and I like the results. Typically, I rate it at 50 ASA and dev in Rodinal 1:50, 20 C, 8 minutes. Are you shooting 35mm or 120? If 120 then grain isn't an issue.<br>

I have to say that you really ought to process it yourself to be sure of the best results.</p>

<p>I've processed Acros in Rodinal and I like the results. Typically, I rate it at 50 ASA and dev in Rodinal 1:50, 20 C, 8 minutes. Are you shooting 35mm or 120? If 120 then grain isn't an issue.<br>

I have to say that you really ought to process it yourself to be sure of the best results.</p>

<p>I'm not one to try lots of different developers so generally stick to ID11 1+1 and really like the results.</p>

<p>Bob, which lab are you using in New York? I've used a few labs in the city and the developers offered sound like a few labs I may have been to. However, I second the Acros and Rodinal combination. I've used it in to develop 6x6 negatives and printed them on 11x14 paper. While focusing under the grain microscope, the grain was barely visible.</p>

<p>As for the other developers, I don't have much experience with T Max, but I'm pretty sure it's a kind of solvent developer. Microdol-X is an extreme fine grain grain developer used at stock solution, but many people also dilute it 1:3 to retain more sharpness.</p>

<p>I don't think X-tol is any more environmentally friendly than PC-TEA. My favorite developer for ACROS is Fuji Microfine. This is Fuji's reference developer for ACROS. You get the full "box" speed along with very fine grain and excellent sharpness. Is T-MAX a solvent type developer? It's a phenidone based developer and does contain some sulfite. Whether you get any solvent action may depend on how much you dilute it but I don't think you will see any. All of the developers you mention, except Rodinal, will give very fine grain with ACROS. This is because the film itself has very fine grain. Rodinal will gove moderately fine grain. Undiluted Microdol-X will cause you to lose at least a full stop of speed. At 1:3 Microdol-X will still give pretty fine grain with ACROS and you will not lose speed. Of the developers you have been offered I would select Microphen. Grain will be reasonable, speed will be good and contrast will be under control. </p>

<p>John-Paul - Phototeknica is the lab that is offering the developing.<br /> When I do develop myself, it will be in Diafine cause I just need it to be simple or I won't do it.<br /> I've also read about some very good results with lots of films in Diafine.<br /> Acros is going to be my 'go to' film as it has the reciprocity I'm looking for not to mention a reputation for fine grain and tonal range.<br /> I love what I've seen on various postings.<br>

Thanks everybody. This is a big help.<br>

Bob</p>

<p>Before you're committed to Diafine, try it and compare it to something else like Rodinal. I don't like the Diafine look generally but it does have some benefits for some situations.</p>

<p>Personally, to keep it simple I would use a dilute single use developer. Then I wouldn't have the bother of two developer baths to store.</p>

<p>I know you didn't mention Kodak HC110, but I like Acros 100 rated @ E.I. 80 processed for 5' @ 68^◦F in HC110 dil. B.</p>

<p>Hi Bob, I haven't used that lab, but I'll attach an example of Acros in Rodinal. It was shot on a Hasselblad using Acros, which was rated at 100 and developed in Rodinal 1:50 for 13.5 minutes at 68F. Are you using 35mm or 120 for your shooting? Even with Rodinal, I found the grain to be barely visible on these 6x6 negs when I printed them on 11x14 paper. Jeff has often spoken to me of Fuji Microfine, but you'd have to order it from Japan.</p>

<p>As for T-Max developer being a solvent developer, I was talking to one of the guys over at TPI in Fairfield and he mentioned they used T-Max RS developer, which has a high degree of sulfite in it, which avoids the buildup of silver in highlight areas during push processing. I asked him if this made T-Max RS more of a solvent developer as compared to an acutance developer and he said yes, but you'd have to take the film type into account.</p><div></div>

<p>Here's Acros rated at 100 and developed in stock D-76</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks, for the samples John-Paul,<br>

Good thoughts, John (Stockdale). The reason I like the idea of Diafine is even thought there are two developer baths, temperature is not critical and everybody raves about the simplicity and how keeps highlights from blocking while allowing shadow detail to develop. <br /> I'll check into the Rodinal too though.<br>

Bob</p>

<p>>I don't think X-tol is any more environmentally friendly than PC-TEA.<br>

Xtol is definitely less environmentally friendly than PC-TEA. The alkali in Xtol, sodium metaborate, includes borates (obviously) that are toxic to plants and a wide variety of aquatic life. They can accumulate environmentally and are resistant to being broken down. Triethanolamine is more environmentally benign and is biodegradable.<br>

Disposing of large amounts of any developer except by authorised chemical waste processors is not recommended.<br>

Marty</p><div></div>

<p>I've processed Acros in X-tol 1+1 and I like the results. Typically, I rate it at 100 ASA and dev in X-tol 1+1, 20 C, 9 minutes. I shooting 120mm.<br>

Stefano.</p>

<p>All my friends who use it use X-tol. I use HC-110 Dilution H</p>

<p>Anybody doing Acros STAND PROCESSING with Rodinal...?<br>

I've been using it @ 1+100 and 1+200 for extremely long scale on Neopan 400 rated 800...<br>

1 hour (seemingly not critical at either dilution), no agitation AT ALL after 30 sec starting inversions (doesn't work with more than 2 rolls in 500cc Nikor tank because bottom rolls vs top rolls are developed noticeably differently.<br>

...any ACROS experience out there with stand/hi-dilution/Rodinal?</p>

<p>10 bucks a roll! Just send it to me in Korea. I can have custom developing done for 2.20 a roll!<br>

Inflation... shucks.</p>

<p>I'm moving to Korea.</p>

<p>I have had great results with Clayton F76 plus... and I mean great. No blocking and good shadows. Exposed ACROS 100 120 size at 60 ISO and developed 1:9 at 68 degrees for 8 minutes. Results are shown in the Ed Smith Project and The Erie Forge at www.georgegriswold.com Cheers, George</p>

<p>Developing your own B&W is really simple and saves a ton of money. For B&W I shoot exclusively Acros as T-Max 100 film kept looking a bit flat with not the same wide tonal range regardless of what developer I used (including T-Max Developer). After trying quite a few developers based upon the recommendations of other photo.net users I have found HC-110 Dilution "D" for 6:45 at 68 degrees invert the tank three times every 30 seconds yields the best results for me. I was using T-Max developer before that and was always needing to use contrast filters while printing. I have had quite a few other students at school ask me how I get the print quality I do with no visible grain at 16x20 and I tell them. You will never be happy with the results sending out your B&W film for development. Break down and buy a tank and some chemistry. It won't many rolls before you start seeing a cost savings. It's really a lot easier than you think and pretty fun to boot. Acros is by far the best B&W film I have ever used. </p>

<p>I develop it in Diafine. See the West Virginia train station shots in my gallery. I think this makes Acros very slightly grainy, but I'm rating it at ASA 160.</p><div></div>

<p>Rebecca, very Walker Evans of you.<br /> I think you caught a moment there.<br>

Dan, yeah, I've heard a lot of good things about various HC-110 solutions too.<br /> And of course, at $10 a roll to have somebody else screw up my film, the cost savings will be enormous.<br /> Although, it still might be cheaper to move to Korea.<br>

George, killer shots-great tones. Crap, now I have to consider your F76 too.<br>

Thanks all. This is quite 'illuminatin''. You're all very helpful.<br /> Bob</p>

<p>George,<br>

Been researching your Clayton F76. Lots of positive feedback out there. When I look for pricing, I see that locally, in New York, they make you buy (4) 1 gallon jugs at $19.95 each or a 5 gallon jug at $84.95. Where can you buy a single gallon jug - or can you?<br /> Also, does the 1:9 dilution mean 1 part F76 to 9 parts water? What are your steps in developing?<br>

Thanks, Bob</p>

 

<p>Marty,<br>

are they victims of disposing Xtol?<br>

Just kidding - great tones.<br>

georg</p>